Afternoon everyone, folks just acquired a 95 explorer and I noticed when I moved it that when the ignition is off and the key is out I can move the key cylinder to towards acc just a little and the chime goes off like the key is in it. I noticed that the key in ignition chime will sound without the keys in the ignition if the key cylinder is bumped back towards the acc position.

I know the previous owner was having some battery issues and i just wonder if this happens to be the cause ? I would like to fix this issue properly, no hacks or disabling stuff if it can be avoided. Would the key cylinder need to be replaced possibly?

What is the correct fix for this issue? Don't want to be a hack type of fix. Would the key cylinder need to be replaced or is it a wire issue in the column?

Its really super clean for having 140k on it. V6,5spd 4wd.

Guessing some service manuals are in my future, any other specific books i should look for? Emissions manuals, electrical diagrams ect? What all manuals should i be on the hunt for this truck? Service manual and what others were available for it?

Thanks for any help you all can provide.

 

Key cylinder is probably what you need, but it could also be an issue with the linkage between it and the ignition switch, or possibly an overly sensitive ignition switch. You can probably replace the key cylinder without taking anything apart though, so it may be the easiest place to start.

Since the previous owner was having battery issues, yeah, I think you'd certainly also want the EVTM as well with the wiring and vacuum diagrams. If you're not adamant that you need printed service manual information, you may find this to be sufficient: https://charm.li/Ford/1995/

-Rod

 

Thank you Rod, also what scanner would we need for this to see what dtc is causing a check engine light? It has what appears to be a obd2 plug under dash but also has a plug under hood by fuse box that says diagnostic plug.
Im guessing this is still an obd1 system right? Would like to find a scanner that will acess what ever either of those plugs do.

I have a couple obd2 readers but nothing for obd1. Thanks

 

If your 1995 has an OBD-II port, it is likely a very early instance of OBD-II. OBD-II was mandated for light duty passenger vehicles starting in 1996, but some manufacturers got a head-start on that and completed the transition before the mandate. Your Explorer may be such a vehicle.

Is the plug under the hood a red plug, or a black plug? If red, that is likely the diagnostics for the ABS system. If black, then it is most likely for the Electronic Engine Control version IV, or EEC-IV, which preceded OBD-II. Since you already have an OBD-II scan tool, there's no harm in trying it here to see if it is able to read and clear the diagnostic code.

There are still a small number of available consumer-grade scan tools that are compatible with OBD-I and OBD-II. One of those might be a good candidate for you as long as it includes the Ford EEC-IV plug. I have an old AutoXray EZ-Scan 5000 or something that I use with my 1995 Bronco, but they are no longer available on the new market. There are also instructions that you should be able to find on-line on how to short the Self-Test Input (STI) lead and a wire in the diagnostic connector to get the 3-digit Lamp Flash Code (LFC, flashed out on the Check Engine light) and even to enable certain extra tests during the KOER test sequence. Going the LFC method only costs the price of about one paperclip and the only real down sides is not having on-screen guidance on how to access the special test modes, having an on-board definition of the diagnostic code, or a really easy means of clearing the diagnostic codes. You should be able to Google "Ford Lamp Fault Code" or "Ford EEC-IV codes" to get instructions on how to perform the tests to help determine if a dedicated OBD-I tool is likely going to be worth it to you.

-Rod

 

This is the port I would be testing from by the abs pump and master cylinder right?

Also I see these seem to develop floppy outer door handles. Is that usually an indication of a im about to break kinda thing? The outer drivers door handle has probably an inch or more of upward movement before it opens the door.

it opens super easy but im sure this things gonna break or fall apart. whats a fix for them when they get that way and if I've got to get behind the door panel do those have the push in Christmas tree kinda fasteners or do they pull upwards to release?

Never been in one so I don't want to break something. Thanks again for all your help

 

This is the port I would be testing from by the abs pump and master cylinder right?

Also I see these seem to develop floppy outer door handles. Is that usually an indication of a im about to break kinda thing? The outer drivers door handle has probably an inch or more of upward movement before it opens the door.

it opens super easy but im sure this things gonna break or fall apart. whats a fix for them when they get that way and if I've got to get behind the door panel do those have the push in Christmas tree kinda fasteners or do they pull upwards to release?

Never been in one so I don't want to break something. Thanks again for all your help

 

Okay, that would be an OBD-I EEC-IV test port, but if you also have an OBD-II port under the dash and already have an OBD-II scan tool, you may as well give that a try first before spending money on an EEC-compatible tool.

The floppy door handles do sound like something that is getting pretty well-worn and may break at a very inconvenient time. They are generally pretty easy to replace once the door panel is removed. I don't have any direct knowledge of the door panels on a 1995 Explorer, but there are probably a few Phillips head screws and several of the Christmas tree push pins holding the door panel on, followed by being hooked over the door shell at the base of the window. You should plan on a few of those breaking and also anticipate that some of the door handle rod retainer clips breaking. Often times the local parts stores will have an assortment of the rod clips and push pins available in the "Help!" parts section.

-Rod

 

Awesome, thats kinda what I was figuring on the door pannel. Was watching a video on replacement on the outer door handles, was by that place trq on YouTube.

Boy was this guy going through way more than was needed according to some of the comments . He drilled out all the regulator rivets and on the door glass just to get to the door handle rivets.

Which most said all you had to do was remove the guide for the window. So ill be searching for parts to fix that , oh and im on the lookout for a grill for it too if anyone knows a good oem one around or I may look into an aftermarket center section if they make such a thing. Ill give the obd2 scanner a try and see if it does anything.

I noticed when I moved it today the abs light is on, will that same port under hood give abs codes or how would I see what the issue is there?