50 degrees and below starting woes
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: MN
50 degrees and below starting woes
02 7.3 that I've had for 21 years. Trying to figure out a starting issue. Starts fine plugged in down to about 0 F, when not plugged in, 50 degrees is about the cutoff. If it doesn't pop or chug in the first few seconds of cranking , I can crank it till the cows come home and its just a dead crank. It's only within the first couple seconds of cranking it decides to try to start or not. Problem started not too terribly long after I had engine out for oil pan. Did glow plugs valve cover harnesses at that time less than 3 years ago. Cranks good and fast, good batteries and starter. Any ideas? Didn't seem real similar to any other symptoms I've heard of other than maybe lpop? I have had it cut out while driving here and there but I was thinking that was the fuel pedal acting up since letting off and getting back on it will clear it up and keeps driving. Mileage is around 180k.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 1,406
From: Oologah, OK
I switched to 5w40 full synthetic, that made a tremendous amount of difference.
Before, with 15w40, it performed exactly as you explained.
I also installed a high power geared starter that spins it at almost 200 RPM.
no block heater and it starts at 20* now easily, and idles smooth right off.
Oklahoma does not ever get below zero annually, we had our first deep freeze 2 years ago, at -25* for 10 days. I didn't even try to start it, we have several gasoline cars and trucks here, all of them start easily ... in cold Wx.
I keep Battery Tenders on everything when the temps drop below 30*
I have a couple of Magnetic oil pan heaters, get one or two of those and stick them on the bottom of the Oil Pan, that will keep things at 60* or more and solve your problem. won't need the block heater, but it will heat the coolant up some.
those oil pan heaters are left over from when I worked in NW Utah and we had a -59* deep freeze come thru, the Suburban's 454 starts easy when the oil temp is 100*
Before, with 15w40, it performed exactly as you explained.
I also installed a high power geared starter that spins it at almost 200 RPM.
no block heater and it starts at 20* now easily, and idles smooth right off.
Oklahoma does not ever get below zero annually, we had our first deep freeze 2 years ago, at -25* for 10 days. I didn't even try to start it, we have several gasoline cars and trucks here, all of them start easily ... in cold Wx.
I keep Battery Tenders on everything when the temps drop below 30*
I have a couple of Magnetic oil pan heaters, get one or two of those and stick them on the bottom of the Oil Pan, that will keep things at 60* or more and solve your problem. won't need the block heater, but it will heat the coolant up some.
those oil pan heaters are left over from when I worked in NW Utah and we had a -59* deep freeze come thru, the Suburban's 454 starts easy when the oil temp is 100*
Last edited by John in OkieLand; Yesterday at 12:29 AM.
Thread Starter
|
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: MN
I switched to 5w40 full synthetic, that made a tremendous amount of difference.
Before, with 15w40, it performed exactly as you explained.
I also installed a high power geared starter that spins it at almost 200 RPM.
no block heater and it starts at 20* now easily, and idles smooth right off.
Oklahoma does not ever get below zero annually, we had our first deep freeze 2 years ago, at -25* for 10 days. I didn't even try to start it, we have several gasoline cars and trucks here, all of them start easily ... in cold Wx.
I keep Battery Tenders on everything when the temps drop below 30*
I have a couple of Magnetic oil pan heaters, get one or two of those and stick them on the bottom of the Oil Pan, that will keep things at 60* or more and solve your problem. won't need the block heater, but it will heat the coolant up some.
those oil pan heaters are left over from when I worked in NW Utah and we had a -59* deep freeze come thru, the Suburban's 454 starts easy when the oil temp is 100*
Before, with 15w40, it performed exactly as you explained.
I also installed a high power geared starter that spins it at almost 200 RPM.
no block heater and it starts at 20* now easily, and idles smooth right off.
Oklahoma does not ever get below zero annually, we had our first deep freeze 2 years ago, at -25* for 10 days. I didn't even try to start it, we have several gasoline cars and trucks here, all of them start easily ... in cold Wx.
I keep Battery Tenders on everything when the temps drop below 30*
I have a couple of Magnetic oil pan heaters, get one or two of those and stick them on the bottom of the Oil Pan, that will keep things at 60* or more and solve your problem. won't need the block heater, but it will heat the coolant up some.
those oil pan heaters are left over from when I worked in NW Utah and we had a -59* deep freeze come thru, the Suburban's 454 starts easy when the oil temp is 100*
but here in MN thats about half the year!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 206
Likes: 86
Have you checked the glow plug relay to make sure it’s energizing the system? Cheap and easier than a LPOP. When you first turn the key on the second big post should have battery voltage on it or if you have a way to monitor voltage in the cab there should be a substantial voltage drop from the glow plugs turning on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 1,406
From: Oologah, OK
I keep a DVM plugged into the PowerPort all the time.
I use it to show me when the glow plugs turn OFF, then I hit the starter...
even though, my battery tender keeps the batteries at 13.3,
when the glow plugs turn on, it drops into the 11.5 range...
when I see the volts start to creep up, I know the glow plugs are OFF
I use it to show me when the glow plugs turn OFF, then I hit the starter...
even though, my battery tender keeps the batteries at 13.3,
when the glow plugs turn on, it drops into the 11.5 range...
when I see the volts start to creep up, I know the glow plugs are OFF
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7,177
Likes: 1,335
From: Bahstun
What is cranking speed? less than 200 isnt good
Are you waiting for the Glowplugs to warm up first? if no then you are cranking before its ready
Are your glowplugs all working? if not it can be tough to start under 50
Do you have a scanner? if not we can guess at a lot pf parts that will drain your wallet
Are you waiting for the Glowplugs to warm up first? if no then you are cranking before its ready
Are your glowplugs all working? if not it can be tough to start under 50
Do you have a scanner? if not we can guess at a lot pf parts that will drain your wallet
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,309
Likes: 577
From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
The symptoms are classic glow plug related.
Test 1: Check for glow plug relay activation. It's the relay further back and is usually shorter. Touch the relay case and have a helper turn the ignition the the ON position. You should hear and feel the relay activate.
Test 2: If test 1 passes, connect voltmeter leads to the 2 large terminals of the relay. You should read battery voltage there. Have a helper turn the ignition to the ON position. The reading should drop close to 0 volts. If the reading doesn't change, replace the relay.
Post your results and we can help more if needed.
Test 1: Check for glow plug relay activation. It's the relay further back and is usually shorter. Touch the relay case and have a helper turn the ignition the the ON position. You should hear and feel the relay activate.
Test 2: If test 1 passes, connect voltmeter leads to the 2 large terminals of the relay. You should read battery voltage there. Have a helper turn the ignition to the ON position. The reading should drop close to 0 volts. If the reading doesn't change, replace the relay.
Post your results and we can help more if needed.
Last edited by Pikachu; Yesterday at 09:23 AM.
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: MN
Thsnks for the replies, I won't be around my truck for a few weeks or more to try any diagnostics yet but trying to get some ideas for now. The glow plugs were motorcraft , can't seem to find where I purchased, I tested the GPR a few months ago with just a test light and seemed to be operating correctly. I let the glow plugs cycle initially for up to a few minutes turning the key back off /on 2-3 times and doesnt seem to make a difference. Then after a few long glow plugs tries I usually just let the gp light shut off then try again, like I said a lot of times will act like wants to start each attempt but only for the 1st second or 2, if it don't fire off immediately, it will not until you stop cycle key again. Length of time letting glow plugs run doesnt seem to affect it. Does make quite a bit of grayish smoke while attempting to start.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,035
Likes: 308
Thsnks for the replies, I won't be around my truck for a few weeks or more to try any diagnostics yet but trying to get some ideas for now. The glow plugs were motorcraft , can't seem to find where I purchased, I tested the GPR a few months ago with just a test light and seemed to be operating correctly. I let the glow plugs cycle initially for up to a few minutes turning the key back off /on 2-3 times and doesnt seem to make a difference. Then after a few long glow plugs tries I usually just let the gp light shut off then try again, like I said a lot of times will act like wants to start each attempt but only for the 1st second or 2, if it don't fire off immediately, it will not until you stop cycle key again. Length of time letting glow plugs run doesnt seem to affect it. Does make quite a bit of grayish smoke while attempting to start.
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