i need to find you how to retighten the bearing so i can replace parking brake

 

Get a service manual here
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-8941.pdf

 

You need to purchase or borrow a spindle nut that has 4 square lugs.. It has been a while since I torqued mine but I think when reinstalling the bearing, tighten to about 40 ft lbs and back off... then re-tighten to 18 ft lbs.. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong... (purchased the tool at Schucks same as O Riellys ) around $25.. It is 3 &1/2" long X 2 & 3/4" in diameter.. PowerBuilt p.n 648476. Harbor Freight also sell them..

 

1. Inspect the spindle and nut threads for corrosion
and clean thoroughly or replace as required.
Note: Proper assembly and adjustment is not possible if the
spindle or nut threads are corroded.
2. Inspect the tang-type washer (if used). Replace the
washer if the tangs are broken, cracked, or damaged.
3. Install the hub and drum on the spindle with care to
prevent damage or distortion to the wheel seal.
CAUTION: A wheel dolly is recommended during installation
to make sure the wheel seal is not damaged by the
weight of the hub and drum. Never support the hub on
the spindle with just the inner bearing and seal. This can
damage the seal and cause premature failure.
4. Completely fill the hub cavity between the inner and
outer bearing races with the same lubricant used in
the axle sump.
5. Before installation, lubricate the outer bearing with
the same lubricant used in the axle sump.
Note: Lubricate only with clean axle lubricant of the same type
used in the axle sump. Do not pack the bearings with
grease before installation. Grease will prevent the proper
circulation of axle lubricant and may cause wheel seal
failure.
6. Install the outer bearing on the spindle.
7. Install the inner nut on the spindle. Tighten the inner
nut to 200 lbs. ft. (271 N•m) while rotating the wheel
hub.
CAUTION: Never use an impact wrench to adjust wheel
bearings. A torque wrench is required to assure the nuts
are properly tightened.
8. Back off the inner nut one full turn. Rotate the wheel
hub.
9. Retighten the inner nut to 50 lbs. ft. (68 N•m) while
rotating the wheel hub.
10. Back off the inner nut exactly 1/4 turn.
Note: This adjustment procedure allows the wheel to rotate
freely with 0.001" -0.005" (0.025 mm–0.127 mm) endplay.
11. Install the correct lock washer for the wheel nut system
being use

 

Get a service manual here
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-8941.pdf
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Ray




this is right what i was looking for

 

Here is pic of the special tool you will need..

http://www.powerbuilttools.co.nz/Images/648476w%20L.jpg

 

it look to small from your pic


THIS ONE IS FOR DANA 80 REAR DIFF TO SMALL up date just read cattalog

 

Hard to see thru the packaging... the 4 square lugs have to be at a 2 & 3/4" dia.. It does not really look like the right one. ..Also, the smaller diameter that goes inside the bearing hole measures 1 & 1/2" in dia..

 

it to small

 

I almost bought one at Napa, but they wanted $65 for it... too much money..!!

 

do i need a spechel tool to remove
End yoke assembly to replace - Pinion seal




could i use a slid hammer ?

 

Unless I am confused,there are 2 different rears being discussed here.
the tool shown is not for the dana 135,and the specs listed above are not either.
If you need the special tool,there is a different torque procedure for that.

If it is indeed a 135,you do not need a special tool,and the link to dana above would be correct.

(then again I too much)

 

and now i am confused

 

Your F550 dually might be different than my F350 dually... someone will straighten out the confusion.. But I would think the wheel hub should be the same if you are just doing the parking brakes...

 

and the Pinion seal