I have a 1976 ford f500 if someone could decode the vin and nameplate for me. My VIN is F50CVC00429 and my nameplate is below.

 

Welcome to FTE!

F50 = F500, chassis and cab

C = 330 2V MD FT gas V8. (Medium Duty = cast 360 crank, FE distributor and oil pump drive, and other FE items)

V = Kentucky Truck Plant

C00429 = 1976 numerical series, April 1976 production

158 = 158 inch wheelbase

T = Candyapple Red

F501 = F500 chassis and cab, 16,000 lbs GVWR

AA8
AA = Black HD vinyl
8 = Regular cab, chassis and cab vehicle.

A = New Process model 435 four speed transmission

41 = Rockwell (Timken) model D-140 single speed rear axle, 13,000 lbs GVWR, 5.83 ratio
No front axle code.

16000 = 16,000 lbs GVWR

22 = Charlotte District Sales Office
No special order.

Note that your warranty tag has been removed and reattached. The Hex head screws are not original. As OEM it would be attached with "tamper evident" rivets.

Check your wheels and make sure they are either tubeless or have a split locking ring evident. Easy to see on the front, but they face each other in the rear.

Any plans for it?

 

I was already aware of the fact it was re-attached. I haven't obtained a socket large enough for the lug nuts yet. Since it has a 5 speed in it now, I imagine I'm going to have some issues finding correct parts for it. Plans are to use it like a big pickup truck, to tow stuff, and it has a steel dump bed installed, so for driveway gravel and fallen tree removal. Overall I just want to keep it in good condition, fix what's missing/broken, and enjoy driving my beautiful old truck.

 

I've seen it mentioned here that you can buy the correct rivits for the warranty tag if you wish to correct it. Sorry, can not remember where, someone will know.

 

I found some here that say they work for most of the '60s-'70s Ford vehicles. https://www.northeastclassicfordpart...ate-rivet-set/

Also, another fun door tag from the dump bed maker.

 

Thanks for the link, I'm gonna need a pair too at some point when I paint

 

Hello, I'm wondering if anyone knows which transmissions/rear axles are compatible with my truck. I'm hoping to be able to drive up to 55mph on flat surfaces. Would it be better to obtain a cat 3208 engine for this? or would a different medium duty truck be the only way to go? T

 

Finally got this beast running and driving again, with some new tires and non-widowmaker wheels.

 

A bunch of 5-speed transmissions will fit your truck: Clark 282V, probably a 285V, the NP541. And similar with rear axles, the common Eaton 16244 is a 2-speed with relatively light carrying capacity that's used in the F600s frequently (mine has one) and your wheels will fit.

Your 330 M/D should pull a load OK, though you are really missing out with your gears. Empty, it should pull 60 MPH on the flat without issue with your current 5.83:1 rear, and if it doesn't then I'd look hard at that engine. I've a 6.17:1 high ratio in mine, and while my 361 is ~10% more displacement than the 330, I can pull 70 empty without issue, though it's loud and running a bit higher on the tach than I'd like.

Loaded, the game's completely different. When you put 6-9k in the back of that, you are going to want more gears or at least a 2-speed in back, or you'll take a long time to get up to speed. But it can still be done. Almost all of our trucks have direct top gear, both the 4-speeds and 5-speeds, and the OD boxes are rare to find and snapped up for repowers etc.

If you think you need a 3208 to get your work done, if I was starting with a 4-speed box and single-speed rear, I think I'd look hard at starting over with a more capable base truck, yeah. The diesel will get you better mileage, but with today's price split on petrol vs diesel, the diesel may not save much on running costs, and if you're driving a 50-year-old truck enough to sweat the running costs, you should be in a newer truck with modern brakes anyway, lol.

[later]
Sorry, I missed this:
If you're already rowing gears 2-5 then IDK how much having 2-speed rear axle will help. Do you feel that the engine is running well? Timing around 6-10° BTDC? All cylinders contributing? Consider doing a cylinder balance test. On a rig this old, the cheapest way is to use fiberglass pliers to remove each plug wire in turn from the dist cap (not from the plug) while the engine is running at a steady 1000-1200 RPM via the hand throttle cable, and noting the RPM drop when you disconnect each cylinder; each one should cause about the same RPM drop. If you pull a wire and the RPM doesn't drop, you found a dead hole. Plug, valves, or broken ring are the usual suspects, if you're testing at over 1k RPM. Below that, vacuum leaks can also cause lack of firing.

You don't want to pull the wire from the spark plug, because then you're holding a live wire whose trying hard to fire to ground, and it will find any weakness (like dirt on your pliers, up your arm) to so so. Pull the wires from the dist cap, you're holding a dead wire and won't have that to worry about.