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HELP I'm in Peru driving the Panamericana hwy in my 1999.5 E-350 (7.3 Power Stroke) and am having these issues. I was sitting at idle in a parking lot when the motor suddenly started jumping and idling super rough. I limped the van to a camp site, it would not go faster than 30 mph on flat ground. I inspected the ICP by testing for voltage between pins A and B and from B to ground and both have between 5.5 and 4.5 volts as recommend. I also looked at the IPR and the tin nut had fallen off so I replaced the IPR with a new OEM part. When I restarted the motor it will now idle but it is still super rough and has no power. With the dog house off it really sounds like number 8 is "dead" or has something wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated, I'm towing to a shop that had a scan tool and compression tester today so should be able to get more info.
No engine light just the P1316 and a P1000. The harness looks ok but does have oil on it.
The sound that it makes when it starts is just awful, very metal on metal. I had a mechanic look at it and when I started the truck with he immediately said turn it off. Sounds like the piston is rateling around.
Drained the oil and removed the filter, no metal in the oil.
Not sure what else could make that noise other than something inside the cylinder? Broken glow plug? I have heard of a cam shaft breaking or a cam shaft bearing going bad but the truck only has 75,000 miles on it.
Low fuel pressure, as in starving for fuel will make a sound like a hammer banging on the side of the block. But that typically doesn't throw a P1316 code.
Rough running, low power sounds like a loose UVCH plug. That's the part of the connector inside the valve cover, so you'll have to use a meter to figure out which cover to pull.
This is a long read, but will get you through the steps from a similar story.
Low fuel pressure, as in starving for fuel will make a sound like a hammer banging on the side of the block. But that typically doesn't throw a P1316 code.
Rough running, low power sounds like a loose UVCH plug. That's the part of the connector inside the valve cover, so you'll have to use a meter to figure out which cover to pull.
This is a long read, but will get you through the steps from a similar story.
Thanks for the info! Looks like a lot of people have had similar issues. I will check this tomorrow and let you know what I find. If starving for fuel causes that noise works the P1316 be associated with another common problem?
I sure how this is the problem, rebuilding the motor in Peru will be quite a core!! Fingers crossed.
I'd first start focusing on getting the blood pressure down. I've had disastrous sounds come from under the hood, only to find out it was something stupid-simple to solve. This engine can sound totally blown... then tighten a bolt, add some fluid, or put a quarter in a connector - and it purrs again. Is the fuel below 1/4 tank?. If the tank is freshly filled, then one might wonder about the fuel itself.
When my truck threw the P1316, it gave a engine light right away and the engine died and would not restart. Crank, but not start.
I replaced the IDM and the truck would start but ran very rough and had no power at all.
I did a buzz test on the injectors and heard one injector with a different sounding "buzz". Removed the valve cover to find a disconnecting UVCH plug. Did the .50 mod (well half of it) and that restored all to normal.
The engine can make very scary sounds like broken pistons/rods, mine has, with no damage at all. Start it and let it run a few seconds, then see if one exhaust manifold is colder than the other, that'll tell you which valve cover connector to check.
In order to do the resistance test do the batteries need to be connected? They are currently disconnected.
Also, does anyone know how to get the oil pan out after it is loose? The guys here want to look at the bottom of the motor and have the pan loose but are having trouble getting it out do to the 4x4 conversion.
In order to do the resistance test do the batteries need to be connected? They are currently disconnected.
Also, does anyone know how to get the oil pan out after it is loose? The guys here want to look at the bottom of the motor and have the pan loose but are having trouble getting it out do to the 4x4 conversion.
No, the batteries do not need to be connected. You are checking the quality of the connection and continuity between the wires and the plugs. No electrical power is required other than what is being applied by the multimeter.
I prefer to disconnect the batteries and sometimes even remove them from the truck in an effort to reduce the chances of an accidental arc. It is too easy to fry a fuse or weld something that was not intended to be welded when working with the electrical system.
As far as removing the oil pan, I believe the engine has to come out to remove it due to the strength cross-member.
Thanks for all the input here, I made some progress today.
Pulled the Covers and found a 2-3 mm gap in each of the connectors. Snapped them back together and started the truck, it sounds better but still running rough.
I pulled the fuel filter and found water in the top and in the fuel that I drained from the bowl so we are draining both my tanks and will drain the entire system to start fresh. Once the fuel is fresh I will restart to see what codes pop and how it sounds.
I will re-tourque the rocker bolts and injectors before I reassemble as suggested above.
What else?
Since the valve covers are still off Pull those plugs apart and look at all the pins. Make sure they aren't burnt from arching. Check the harness and valve cover gasket sides. Put something under the clip to keep it from separating. Best of luck.
AllAboutMPG beat me to it by one minute, but I have a picture!
Check to make sure the UVCH connectors and pins (internal and external) are not burnt or damaged. Also, check to make sure the internal connection is secured and not loose which may require a cut quarter to keep the connector tight and locked.
05-21-2019, 10:38 AM
