All:

I want to change the front shocks on my 1986 Ford F-150 (4X4) this weekend. I have NEVER done anything like this before. The guy at Advance Auto Parts and the videos on You Tube show that it SHOULD be as simple as removing two bolts, taking the old shocks off and adding the new shocks and the rubber gaskets, etc.
However, I know Murphy's Law is always present.

Here are my questions:
1) IS this really as simple as it looks and appears to be? I have wire brushed the nuts and have sprayed PB Blaster on them nearly every night for 10 days. (I do not drive the truck too often). I assume that this effort SHOULD help me. I did buy a breaker bar and a torque wrench. I also bought some anti-seize for when I put the new shock on.
2) I was told to start on the old shocks by taking off the bottom nut and bolt and then take off the top. Then I assume I would start by putting the new shock in from top to bottom. (The reverse). I was told that you would bolt the top in and then let the shock ease down to the holes to bolt the bottom on. Is this the right way to do this?
3) What Murphy's Law (or Oh Shucks) moment might I encounter in this whole process? I certainly do not want to start and then find I cannot complete this job.
4) What shocks would you recommend me buying? My truck is a 4X4 with a 302 EFI engine. I want a smooth ride but also want a shock that would work if I take the truck deer hunting and need to go off road. (I am not a mudder though). So a shock that is smooth on the highway but could be good for some off road use - but not extreme off roading. Does that make sense?

Any thoughts are appreciated. This is my first big undertaking with the vehicle and I want to impress the doubters in my family who think that Dad can't pull this off.

 

How rusted is the threaded end on the upper end of the shock? If that nut doesn't want to move or gets stuck on there, then there's no easy way to hold the stud without damaging the the remaining threads.
I ended up cutting the upper stud/nut off mine with a zip cut disk in an angle grinder.

If the rust isn't too bad, then you'll have no worries, it is an easy job.

 

1) Yes, shocks are really easy don't overthink it. You did the legwork with the PB blaster.
2) Remove upper nut first then lower nut. Then reverse this to install new. The shocks come compressed with tie wire so your best bet is to get the lower installed first, position it and cut the tie wire and guide the shock through the hole for the upper shock mount as the shock extends (don't forget the bushing first). This is much easier than cutting the tie wire first. Then torque to spec lower then upper. Upper = 25 to 35 ft/lbs & Lower = 52 to 74 ft/lbs.
3) My Oh Shucks moment was realizing I shouldn't have cut the tie wire before bolting up the lower.
4) I got some cheaper Gabriel ProGuards. They fit the bill as far as a smooth ride and not too stiff but I was just looking for a stock-ish feel shock. Sky's the limit on the shocks, you've got cheap ones all the way up to ranchos. I did quite a bit of research on all the different shocks offered by RockAuto.com and for my price range and expectations the Gabriel's were a good choice. I'd just go through the options and enter in the model into amazon and read the reviews, more expensive doesn't always mean better or what you're looking for. If you can wait a few days for shipping, I'd also buy them from RockAuto, you'll save up to 50% compared to the local auto stores.

 

It's as simple as you could imagine. The guys have already provided the process and torque specifications.

Not sure if this applies, but one of my 1986 F150s came with dual shocks up front. Seems it was an option.

If it's a rarely driven vehicle and you arent picky about ride quality just get whatever is inexpensive at your local parts store. I bought the cheapest in stock and it was night and day different compared to the old shocks.

Thad

 

soak all the bolts with PB Blaster penninitrating oil days before you start. Do you have to use the truck Monday to go to work ? Holman

 

Gents,
You guys are all very helpful! BTW, I only have one shock per wheel as opposed to Dakota Jeep's F-150 having dual shocks. Maybe my XLT Lariat was purchased to be more of a road truck? I don't know.

Here's the update from this weekend. I went in with confidence....
I bought Monroe Gas shocks (about $30 a piece). I did not research the shocks too much. Mike Iron Tyson was right in that I could have saved money by going to Rock Auto. I will do that for the rear shocks - thanks for the tip.

I was able to get the bottom nuts off and the bolts out. The driver's side screw was a pain and I found that the threads were flattened so I went to Lowes and bought a new stainless steel screw and nut for it. It matched the old one perfectly. (I guess the auto parts guy was correct telling me that standard bolts and nuts were used back then. It worked)

I ran into my "Oh, poop" moment like Rambrant said with the top nut. Try as I might I could not get that thing to turn. The shock would turn but the nut would not. I tried holding the shock as tight as I could while putting the socket to it but I could not move it. This is after 10 days of hitting it nearly every night with PB Blaster. I do not have a disc grinder and I could not get my Dremel with the cutting wheel close enough and at the correct angle to cut off the nut. I was a little afraid to take my solder torch to the nut because I was worried that I might melt part of the (plastic?) wheel well area. I found that the wheel well was very tight to work in.

I began to get discouraged so I stopped the job. I ended up putting new bolts and nuts on the bottom of the old shocks. I will try again. I will start with the top nut. I will figure out how to cut the stinking things off.

One last thing -- I went to Pep Boys, O-Reilly and Advance Auto Parts to look for shocks. Every shock that I looked at did not have the wire harness to keep them compressed. Is that normal? You guys were 100% correct that it a real PIA to have them decompressed (or down) and try to push them up to get into the slot.

Anyway thanks for listening and for your help.

 

That wire to keep them compressed is used on gas charged shocks. The gas keeps the oil in the shocks from getting air in it when going over a lot of bumps. Air in the oil stops the shock from doing its job as the piston is then moving thru air.

On the nut look into a nut spliter. It fits around the nut and you tighten the bolt. This bolt has a wedge on the end and gets pushed thru the nut splitting it.
Parts stores may one or HF or Northern tool.
Dave - - - -

 

Thanks, Dave. I bought a nut splitter this morning and I will try the replacement again. Thanks for your help.

 

As they say there is more than 1 way to skin a cat hope the splitter works.

l can't belive if you use a pipe wrench or pump pliers to hold the shock body, a 6 point socket on the nut you can't snap the stud off and pull the shock off.
Dave - - - -

 

Gents,

Yesterday I was able to complete the project. For a guy who is not mechanically inclined I was rather proud of myself for getting it done. Now on to the rear shocks!

I wanted to share something that helped me get this job done faster. I wish that I could say that I thought of this but I found the idea on You Tube and dang if it did not work.
My Monroe Gas-matic shocks did not come compressed and as everyone knows you need to eat a big bowl of Wheaties to compress them. This sucks when you work in tight spaces.
I bought zip ties and compressed the shocks prior to installation and it made the job SO much easier. You can maneuver around the brake lines and get the shock into place. Then you cut the tie and the shock eases into place.


The black zip tie was 36" and I pulled it tight and cut off the ends. This made the project a lot easier for me.

 

Nice job of thinking up of that solution and sticking with it. These trucks can kick your *** sometimes but all you can do is take a breather and tackle it another day. Let us know how the rears go for you. If you can do the front, the rears are a breeze.