Clutch selection
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Clutch selection
Loaded question time!
460 made 350hp, 480ftlbs through t19 4 speed, 4x4, 3.55 gears and 35” tires. Mostly, if not all miles are towing heavy trailers and my race car. I’m going through replacing the ring gear on my flywheel (long story) and while I had it out, considered replacing the clutch. The last clutch was parts store, run of the mill 12” unit. I do feel like it could perform better with a new clutch, and it’s over 15 years old. Not looking to spend over $500. I don’t want anything too grabby, just because of finesse in backing up to trailers, also, my wife drives it as well, so I’d prefer something not too stiff. Suggestions?
460 made 350hp, 480ftlbs through t19 4 speed, 4x4, 3.55 gears and 35” tires. Mostly, if not all miles are towing heavy trailers and my race car. I’m going through replacing the ring gear on my flywheel (long story) and while I had it out, considered replacing the clutch. The last clutch was parts store, run of the mill 12” unit. I do feel like it could perform better with a new clutch, and it’s over 15 years old. Not looking to spend over $500. I don’t want anything too grabby, just because of finesse in backing up to trailers, also, my wife drives it as well, so I’d prefer something not too stiff. Suggestions?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Did you find anything wrong with that store bought one in all the years using it?
If not I would use a store bought one again and yes that's what I put in mine.
The only thing you want to make sure you have a diaphragm type pressure plate not the 3 finger type, the 3 finger type is hardtop push down the higher the clamping force.
Dave ----
If not I would use a store bought one again and yes that's what I put in mine.
The only thing you want to make sure you have a diaphragm type pressure plate not the 3 finger type, the 3 finger type is hardtop push down the higher the clamping force.
Dave ----
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Thanks, finally got around to replacing ring gear today and when I removed the clutch, it was in bad shape. Also, it measured 11” so I gave bad info. I’m definitely going with the diaphragm style, but which one is another question. I think all those years wore on the old clutch, almost all material was gone and there was a plasticky ring I was able to blast off the flywheel surface. It did slip under load the past few years, and gradually got worse, just didn’t know if it was worth upgrading to above stock application. The centerforce dual frictions look nice and got a bunch of good reviews, not so much happy with the price though. Hopefully you get what you pay for?
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Yea that Center Force DF hits the $$ pretty hard as I have one in my 70 AMC Javelin with a T5 5sp.
I don't know if I would use one in a truck. I did in the car because I hope to make a few passes down the 1/4 mile just to see what it will do. I also want to auto cross it and a track day or 2 as the suspension is set up to handle the curves.
Is your fly wheel drilled & taped for a 12" disc? If so I would look into going with the 12" over the 11" but that is it.
Being you are going from 3.55 to 4.10 gears with them big tires you will not need to slip the clutch as much when taking off from a dead stop.
On my AMC that was 1 of the things the T5 helped as it had a lower first gear than the T10 4sp I pulled out so less slipping of the clutch on take off with out changing the rear gear.
My 81 F100 with a 300/T18 has an 11" disc but I cant remember if the fly wheel was drilled for a 12"or not now.
On mine, now that the clutch linage is rebuilt and new clutch and all in place the clutch should out live me. I was taught how to drive a stick from day 1, foot on the floor between shifts. Dad made me take my driving test in a van with 3 on the tree. If I passed driving a stick to get my Lic. he would trust me driving anything.
I know it is a pain to pull the trany or motor for a clutch change and why you want it right the first time but I think you are over thinking this.
Dave ----
I don't know if I would use one in a truck. I did in the car because I hope to make a few passes down the 1/4 mile just to see what it will do. I also want to auto cross it and a track day or 2 as the suspension is set up to handle the curves.
Is your fly wheel drilled & taped for a 12" disc? If so I would look into going with the 12" over the 11" but that is it.
Being you are going from 3.55 to 4.10 gears with them big tires you will not need to slip the clutch as much when taking off from a dead stop.
On my AMC that was 1 of the things the T5 helped as it had a lower first gear than the T10 4sp I pulled out so less slipping of the clutch on take off with out changing the rear gear.
My 81 F100 with a 300/T18 has an 11" disc but I cant remember if the fly wheel was drilled for a 12"or not now.
On mine, now that the clutch linage is rebuilt and new clutch and all in place the clutch should out live me. I was taught how to drive a stick from day 1, foot on the floor between shifts. Dad made me take my driving test in a van with 3 on the tree. If I passed driving a stick to get my Lic. he would trust me driving anything.
I know it is a pain to pull the trany or motor for a clutch change and why you want it right the first time but I think you are over thinking this.
Dave ----
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Worst part is they don’t even include the t.o. bearing!
flywheel has only 6 holes, I’ve seen the others with 12, which would use the 12” upgrade, but I’m stuck with what I got. Thanks for the advice!
flywheel has only 6 holes, I’ve seen the others with 12, which would use the 12” upgrade, but I’m stuck with what I got. Thanks for the advice!
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