A couple weeks ago I decided to try to replace my leaking exhaust manifold and I now regret that decision. After days of fighting, I'm down to just the 2 front exhaust manifold studs, broken off below the surface of the head. I've tried to use the lisle kit to drill the bottom stud out, but the stud is so hardened from 210k miles of heat cycles that the HSS bit that come with the kit don't do anything, my titanium bits dull in seconds, and the 2 cobalt bits I've gone through have only managed to make a small divot in the stud. The top stud is too close to the shock tower to drill, even with the engine unbolted and jacked up as high as it can be. I've also tried those Grabit Speedout Pro extractors but they also don't seem to be making any progress, plus I have to keep stopping to let my air compressor cool down (and my arms rest) after 10-15 minuets of drilling.
I think my next step is going to have to be removing the head to see if I can make any progress once I can actually see and have access to do something. Has anyone removed the passenger side cylinder head with the engine in chassis and without lifting the cab? The first step of cylinder head removal in the service manual is "Remove the engine", and from what I've read online it is suggested to lift the cab a couple inches to remove it in chassis. I do not have the facilities to lift the cab or remove the engine for that matter so am I SOL?
I already have the valve covers off, and the cams out, but I can't really tell if there is enough room to get the heads off.
This is so aggravating, everywhere I read that the studs are easily drilled out but, no, no they are not, also why couldn't it have been the rear studs, ya know, the ones I can actually see and access.

 

Yes the head can be removed in chassis.

 

Anything is possible. But pertaining to the OP's original question, yes it likely can be removed in chassis. It is easy? Absolutely not. As a Ford dealer technician who's been into more than his fair share of these and other Ford engines throughout the years, I can tell you that the passenger side of the engine compartment is extremely tight for valve cover removal as the OP has likely already figured out, let alone the entire cylinder head. My suggestion is to bite the bullet and have it towed to a facility equipped to lift the cab. The relative simplicity of cab removal and reward in being able to do so, far outweighs the risk of attempting it in chassis, cab on. That is, unless the OP is an even greater glutton for punishment than he's already shown himself to be, attempting broken fastener extraction in extremely tight and restricted quarters.

 

Thank you, I wanted to verify before I tried.

As a matter of fact, removing the cylinder head was a cake walk (way easier than trying to work between the head and shock tower for days), only took about an hour and a half once I had the right fuel line disconnect tool. Now I just gotta get those 2 studs out, but I think that'll wait til tomorrow and if I don't think I can get them out, I'll drop the head off at a machine shop.

Note: if someone else is going to attempt this, the bottom head bolt at the rear has to come out with the head, there is not enough room between the head and the firewall to remove the bolt, but i pulled it up most of the way and just lifted the head off with it still in the head.
Another Note: If the cylinder head bolts have been torqued, they must be replaced if loosened.

Yea, I've heard removing these cabs are simple, but I'm working in a 2 car garage where the garage door already hits the hood (have to use a ratchet strap to keep the hood from opening all the way and then a second one from the garage door frame to keep the hood from closing on me.) My next house WILL have a shop building with a lift in it, this project has solidified that for me.

 

The dilemma will be when re-installing the cylinder head, and torqueing the new cylinder head bolts. If I recall correctly, the torque specs for that engine is three steps. The initial 30 ft-lbs step will be easy. The next two subsequent steps of 90 degree turns is where you'll encounter greater difficulty in tight quarters.

 

Well, I look forward to this then. I was not able to extract the studs with the head on a bench either so I dropped it off at the machine shop today, they didn't seem too confident that they would be able to get them out either, so we will see.

Thanks

 

That's a lot of work, we just put a over size nut on the stud and weld it. Hit it with the impact driver and they come right out.

 

I tried welding a nut onto the studs that stuck out of the head, but I couldn't get the weld to penetrate the stud. I think my 170 amp MIG welder couldn't get and keep the stud hot enough with the aluminum head acting like a big heat sink. I thought about getting a Lincoln 225, but I don't have anyplace to plug it in. That being said, the studs in question are broken off below the surface of the head, also you can't access the front studs with a welder.

Edit:
Head is back from the machine shop with a clean bill of health and installed. I would say the most difficult part of this entire procedure is reconnecting the vacuum lines, intake tuning actuator electrical connector, and reattaching the wiring harness to it's mounting stud. I hope to start it up tomorrow, gotta let the RTV cure.

Thanks