New battery cables now no start
#1
New battery cables now no start
So I just replaced both positive and negative battery cables for both batteries on my 2000 7.3 Excursion with new OEM cables. Cleaned connections on starter relay while all cables were off and took all ground points down to bare metal before reattaching grounds. Put batteries back in and now I am not getting any power at all (i.e. no dome lights, gauge lights with key turned, etc). Truck was running before I took batteries and cables out. Batteries were out for about 2 days (waiting for cables to ship) and were on trickle charge while out.
What did I do wrong? The only thing that I think that may possibly be causing this is I did use dielectric grease on ground connections and starter relay connections to prevent future corrosion.....am I wrong for doing this? Electrical is my weakness but don’t mind learning if somebody is willing to teach me (oh and have plenty of patience! Lol).
Thanks for any and all assistance
What did I do wrong? The only thing that I think that may possibly be causing this is I did use dielectric grease on ground connections and starter relay connections to prevent future corrosion.....am I wrong for doing this? Electrical is my weakness but don’t mind learning if somebody is willing to teach me (oh and have plenty of patience! Lol).
Thanks for any and all assistance
#2
You may have put the fusible links on the wrong side of the fender mounted starter relay you cleaned.. Those are the other wires on that relay. They should be on the all time hot side of the relay. If you accidentally swap them, It will be a dead stick.
You can see w/o a lot of trouble by jumping the small terminal on the relay to the hot terminal on the relay. If the starter tries to turn and the lights come on in the cab, that is what happened.
You can see w/o a lot of trouble by jumping the small terminal on the relay to the hot terminal on the relay. If the starter tries to turn and the lights come on in the cab, that is what happened.
#3
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#5
Seville009 - I'm not trying to call you out, I just wouldn't want to see the OP chase a rabbit down a hole. Your input is still appreciated.
Walter S. Mallory in an interview with Thomas Edison about his progress on the light bulb: "I said: 'Isn't it a shame that with the tremendous amount of work you have done you haven't been able to get any results?' Edison turned on me like a flash, and with a smile replied: 'Results! Why, man, I have gotten lots of results! I know several thousand things that won't work!'"
#6
@ the OP: Did you remove all the cables before installing new ones, or do one at a time? If all at once, my first thought is some scramble at the starter relay. IIRC, swapping either the two big lugs or the two small wires will cause a no-crank.
And disconnect the batteries before changing any wiring. Agree with doing that and then applying an ohmmeter to trace the wiring, though a few voltage checks before that might find the problem in short order.
Also, when you first hooked up the batteries, did you get a "normal" small spark or did you get a big "snap" at any point? A big "snap" would lead me to inspect fusible links or fuses in addition to the wiring connections.
And disconnect the batteries before changing any wiring. Agree with doing that and then applying an ohmmeter to trace the wiring, though a few voltage checks before that might find the problem in short order.
Also, when you first hooked up the batteries, did you get a "normal" small spark or did you get a big "snap" at any point? A big "snap" would lead me to inspect fusible links or fuses in addition to the wiring connections.
#7
So I just replaced both positive and negative battery cables for both batteries on my 2000 7.3 Excursion with new OEM cables. Cleaned connections on starter relay while all cables were off and took all ground points down to bare metal before reattaching grounds. Put batteries back in and now I am not getting any power at all (i.e. no dome lights, gauge lights with key turned, etc). Truck was running before I took batteries and cables out. Batteries were out for about 2 days (waiting for cables to ship) and were on trickle charge while out.
What did I do wrong? The only thing that I think that may possibly be causing this is I did use dielectric grease on ground connections and starter relay connections to prevent future corrosion.....am I wrong for doing this? Electrical is my weakness but don’t mind learning if somebody is willing to teach me (oh and have plenty of patience! Lol).
Thanks for any and all assistance
What did I do wrong? The only thing that I think that may possibly be causing this is I did use dielectric grease on ground connections and starter relay connections to prevent future corrosion.....am I wrong for doing this? Electrical is my weakness but don’t mind learning if somebody is willing to teach me (oh and have plenty of patience! Lol).
Thanks for any and all assistance
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#8
When he is testing the grounds on a meter using ohms, a bad reading is OL or all over the place. What would a good reading be?
The value will change based on the length and condition of the conductors, but is a solid and steady reading considered good or is the a number he should be shooting for?
The value will change based on the length and condition of the conductors, but is a solid and steady reading considered good or is the a number he should be shooting for?
#9
So after thought about carlton_webb’s response and getting some much needed R&R, I broke out the ohm meter this morning and started measuring some voltage at multiple points.
Batteries: good. Now to the starter relay. I know for a fact that I put the fusible links on the same terminal on the relay that they came off. What I do t remember was the orientation of the lugs coming from the battery cable. I remember thinking to myself that the lugs on cable were different sizes but the terminal posts on the relay were the same size so I didn’t think much of the orientation and herein lies my problem. I checked voltage on both posts, found the hot one which was opposite of the fusible links, and made the swap. Engine is now turning over. Thank all of you for your replies and insight. I was just tired and cold last night and needed carlton’s response to prompt some late night pondering and much needed rest.....and I haven’t even had my coffee yet!!! Lol
So so now I have another question which originally led me to change out the cables and I think that I know the answer to this one. I notice sometimes on my CTS2 that I only get between 115.5-12 volts and then it will pop up to 14.1-14.3. This morning when I cranked her up, I noticed on the CTS2 that it was reading 11.5 volts and immediately suspected the alternator (I was already suspect of it but was hoping that my horrendous cables were the cause). I grabbed my meter and tried measuring hot to ground on the alt while she was spinning......measured 14.5 volts. Scratched my head and peeled into the cab again and CTS2 was reading the same now. So I am thinking that the alternator is going and in need of replacement. Thoughts?
I would update the thread title but not sure how to do so from my smartphone which is being operated by someone not so smart. Thanks again guys.
Batteries: good. Now to the starter relay. I know for a fact that I put the fusible links on the same terminal on the relay that they came off. What I do t remember was the orientation of the lugs coming from the battery cable. I remember thinking to myself that the lugs on cable were different sizes but the terminal posts on the relay were the same size so I didn’t think much of the orientation and herein lies my problem. I checked voltage on both posts, found the hot one which was opposite of the fusible links, and made the swap. Engine is now turning over. Thank all of you for your replies and insight. I was just tired and cold last night and needed carlton’s response to prompt some late night pondering and much needed rest.....and I haven’t even had my coffee yet!!! Lol
So so now I have another question which originally led me to change out the cables and I think that I know the answer to this one. I notice sometimes on my CTS2 that I only get between 115.5-12 volts and then it will pop up to 14.1-14.3. This morning when I cranked her up, I noticed on the CTS2 that it was reading 11.5 volts and immediately suspected the alternator (I was already suspect of it but was hoping that my horrendous cables were the cause). I grabbed my meter and tried measuring hot to ground on the alt while she was spinning......measured 14.5 volts. Scratched my head and peeled into the cab again and CTS2 was reading the same now. So I am thinking that the alternator is going and in need of replacement. Thoughts?
I would update the thread title but not sure how to do so from my smartphone which is being operated by someone not so smart. Thanks again guys.
#10
I believe that the digital meter will read 1 when resting and should go to 0 with a dead short but I could be wrong (I CRS). I plead total 'I forget' with an analog meter. I always put the ends together as a test of the meter before I test my connections That will show what a dead short looks like on the meter.
#11
What I believe your seeing is the glow plug circuit being activated for up to two minutes after key on or start. Voltage should be reading roughly 11.5 volts.
When the Glow plugs are turned off/timed out your voltage is 14 + and that is healthy.
Your Alt is fine and this is a normal activity.
Denny
When the Glow plugs are turned off/timed out your voltage is 14 + and that is healthy.
Your Alt is fine and this is a normal activity.
Denny
#12
To add to my above post, historically once the alt starts reading 14.1 or above it stays there throughout the drive. The low voltage is typically only on startup and the first few minutes (figuratively speaking) of running.
And since my brain seems to be working this morning (may have something to do with the sunshine beaming down and warming my dome!), I do know remember when I sometimes would run the heater in the winter that the volts would sometimes drop down into the high 13s, and subsequently go back to 14+ when I shut down the blower, which correct me if I am wrong is indicative of a faulty and/or failing alternator.
And since my brain seems to be working this morning (may have something to do with the sunshine beaming down and warming my dome!), I do know remember when I sometimes would run the heater in the winter that the volts would sometimes drop down into the high 13s, and subsequently go back to 14+ when I shut down the blower, which correct me if I am wrong is indicative of a faulty and/or failing alternator.
#15
Well that’s what I thought and didn’t knock on wood before claiming victory! Ugh I hate electrical. So sitting and running I was at a steady 14.1. As I always do after making any repair and/or maintenance I jumped in to take for a test drive. Shortly after turning out of my driveway, voltage dropped to 12.5 volts. Stayed fairly consistently between 12.4-12.5. The more it ran the lower it went with the lowest that I saw being 12.2.
As as soon as I pulled into the driveway, I popped the hood and grabbed my meter to confirm the readings that I was seeing. Red probe on alternator output bolt and black to ground......12.5 volts. I am thinking that alternator is no bueno. What say the masses?
As as soon as I pulled into the driveway, I popped the hood and grabbed my meter to confirm the readings that I was seeing. Red probe on alternator output bolt and black to ground......12.5 volts. I am thinking that alternator is no bueno. What say the masses?