Ideas on problems starting?
#378
Ya it sort of 6 of one half dozen the other.
If you were going to install a PMGR starter and were not concerned with factory correct appearance. I would delete the start relay all together and Install the Bosch relay to switch the load/feed to the starter relay and here is why.
You eliminate the 2 battery cable terminal connections at the start relay. connections of potential issue.
You eliminate a high amp switch (starter relay), by keeping the starter relay you have 2 high amp switches in place. The one in the start relay and the one in the starter solenoid.
You eliminate the potential of slow starter disengagement due to back feeding on the PMGR starter. Not really an issue to be honest or something to worry about, but some worry about it.
The draw backs are you now need to extend or put a terminal block in place for the power feeds for the vehicle chassis wiring as they will no longer have the start relay in place to be fed from.
You have added an additional fuse and a Bosch relay both of which are points of failure but it can easily be by-passed if they crap out.
If you have the I terminal feed on the Start relay this will mean you will need a DPDT relay or a second standard relay for the ignition circuit. If you have that set up then it is probably better to keep the start relay in place.
You will need a 30A Bosch type relay, do not use one smaller.
#379
#380
#382
#384
In other news....the government shut down.... and other than the first cold start this morning, it's been an absolute bear to start every since. There's gotta be something in the timing as well, maybe 50/50. Problem is, because it was recurved, the new dizzy won't let her back down to 8-10 degrees. I'm half tempered to put the old motorcraft stock one back in her to see what she does. I've never had a fit like I did today with starting it.
#385
Yes. If the voltage to the electromagnet in the starter relay is weak, the contacts won't clamp together as tightly as possible. However, such a fault would have shown up when testing the voltage drop between the (+) battery post to the starter's (+) input.
You don't have to know exactly where it goes. That wire merely connects the battery's (+) post to the S terminal on the starter relay when the key is held to the start position. Just put your meter leads at those two points, key to start, and measure the voltage drop. Anything under 0.5VDC means the switch and related wiring is good.
Also check the negative side, too. The starter relay's actuating electromagnet is grounded through the inner fender, a sketchy path at best. Put your meter's black lead on the battery's (-) post. Put the red lead on the relay's mounting feet. Key to start, and measure the voltage under load. Once again, this voltage drop should be less than 0.5VDC.
You don't have to know exactly where it goes. That wire merely connects the battery's (+) post to the S terminal on the starter relay when the key is held to the start position. Just put your meter leads at those two points, key to start, and measure the voltage drop. Anything under 0.5VDC means the switch and related wiring is good.
Also check the negative side, too. The starter relay's actuating electromagnet is grounded through the inner fender, a sketchy path at best. Put your meter's black lead on the battery's (-) post. Put the red lead on the relay's mounting feet. Key to start, and measure the voltage under load. Once again, this voltage drop should be less than 0.5VDC.
Voltage drop from neg side of battery to one of the bolts holding solenoid to fender is .02When I connected the s post to the +battery it showed -12.8 trying to take video of when it's in the crank position because of lack of helpers.....
#386
#387
In other news....the government shut down.... and other than the first cold start this morning, it's been an absolute bear to start every since. There's gotta be something in the timing as well, maybe 50/50. Problem is, because it was recurved, the new dizzy won't let her back down to 8-10 degrees. I'm half tempered to put the old motorcraft stock one back in her to see what she does. I've never had a fit like I did today with starting it.
#388
So I went from the block ground directly to the fender, now I show .2 from the neg battery terminal to the fender solenoid bolt, and still .2 from battery to block ground. Let's see what happens!P.s. I guess that starter isn't showing up today.....
#389
So, to recap, Karl said, make sure the solenoid is grounded, well it is. To the fender. but what is the voltage drop at the fender? Entirely too much. So I grounded the fender to the block, now the solenoid is definitely grounded, basically to the negative side of the battery via the engine block.
Drive it to the gas station and it fired back up without a hiccup....
We may be onto something here, but if i can replicate this tomorrow driving the truck, mind you, it's still the direct drive Chinese starter..... we will see, but as for right now tonight, I'd say she is fixed.
Drive it to the gas station and it fired back up without a hiccup....
We may be onto something here, but if i can replicate this tomorrow driving the truck, mind you, it's still the direct drive Chinese starter..... we will see, but as for right now tonight, I'd say she is fixed.
#390
If millivolts, that is virtually perfect. Pat yourself on the back and treat yourself to a good movie on Netflix. Maybe a personal favorite, Hot Rod. Brace yourself for some cinematic excellence:
If volts, that is okay, but could probably be better. Remember, the closer to zero the better. 0.2 volts (200 millivolts) would be okay on a long cable run, such as the big cable feeding the starter and handling hundreds of amps. For a much shorter run (the fender-mounted relay right next to the battery), handling a lot less current flow, you should be able to get the voltage drop down.