My front passenger side hits harder than it should, often bottoming out the suspension. I'm looking to replace the leafs with stock equivalents. OEM from dealer is $265 a pop. I've seen some Pro-Comp for much less. Any recommendations? I've read a little about codes for the leaf springs. How do I ensure I buy the correct springs if I don't go through a dealer?

 

Call Junior at ATS, he’ll get you the same springs Ford sells at a fraction of the price. You’ll also end up with a much better ride.

I went with the V’a up front and B’s in rear, night and day difference and no more bottoming out.

 

Junior at ATS. Buy once cry once. I wouldn't even think of putting Ford OEM Excursion springs into my Ex.

I used ATS for the rears (ATS mod C), and another for the front X codes.

In dealing with two different source, I can tell you that Junior at ATS got it exactly right the first time and was a pleasure to deal with. The other vendor...not so much. Literally the other vendor shipped the front u-bolts out incorrectly THREE times, before I got them ordered from Junior. Did the other vendor get all their parts back, yep. Did that lose my business forever, yep.

My ex has 1.5 inches of rake now. When I get the Cummins swap done, that will add a bit more rake overall.

 

Before you change the spring Check to see if it is the spring or the shock that needs replacing.

To check your spring for sag Measure from the center of the wheel hub to the bottom of your fender arch.

4x4 models the measurment when it was new. (A 1/2 of spring sag is generally acceptable before they need replacing. )
Front 23"
Rear 24"

It is common for the passenger side shock and bump stop to wear out before the driver side because most people hit more pot holes with that side.

If your springs measure ok, then you likely just need new shocks and probably new bump stops. ( I'd bet your bumps are gone on the passenger side )

 

I'll measure that just for kicks, but I've already replaced the jump stop and shocks. I cant keep sway bar links on it either. The leaf springs are all that's left at this point.

 

You springs are likely sagged but keep in mind, just because you may have recently replaced a part does not mean the part is still working correctly.

I see it often, a person insist the part is good and refuses to check it only to waste a bunch of time and eventually find out the recently new part is faulty. I've seen brand new name brand shocks fail in 1 weekend.

Moral of the story, check the entire system.

 

I’m with Pirate. Be sure you have functional bump stops. The X has only a few inches of travel before it bottoms out on the bump stops. If you don’t have them then I think you are in for problems. You could switch spring types for stiffer ones but you will raise the front end and likely have to install rear blocks to even it out. Personally, I consider hitting the bump stop as part of the suspension especially considering how long they are

 

I second the advice of Junior at ATS spring. Favorite mod so far by a long shot!

 

Front x-codes, rear mod b/c from ATS, and a Hellwig 7878 (4x4 with minor lift) straightened out my old Ex. Had front done all Moog BJ's fully labor warrantied for 2 years (anywhere in North America) and lifetime replacement warranty from Moog, drag link ends etc, and tightened up the old steering box, and all is working very well now. It's the way it should have been built from the factory. I used to have a shake at 65mph that we couldn't find until we did the springs, which to me indicates that these Ex's sagging springs must somehow change the pinion angle. That shake is entirely gone.

 

X code front springs for me. I haven't seen a bump stop engagement since. Not saying it can't happen, but It would take an event that I want no part of. I did all four springs and it is the best thing I have done to the Ex. It is how it should have been all along.

 

Make sure you leave the two big end bolts loose and set it back on the ground at ride height, then torque the big bolts to spec. That will keep the bushings from being in a bind and put them in a more neutral position.