SRW vs DRW 4wd D60 Rotor Difference?
#1
SRW vs DRW 4wd D60 Rotor Difference?
I ordered a set of rotors and the place i ordered them from said the dual rear wheel and single rear wheel 4wd rotors were the same. I just thought to check Napa an Rock Auto and both show difference part numbers for the rotors but the dimensions listed are identical. What is the difference between a dual rear wheel and single rear wheel front rotor since they both bolt to the inside of the hub?
#3
Sorry, the question was "Are F350 4wd front brake rotors the same on both the SRW and DRW trucks". Both Napa and Rock Auto have them listed as different part numbers and Napa even had both versions in stock. I had ordered a quality set of drilled and slotted rotors and they told me they both used the same rotor. I was just making sure i wasnt going to have to wait a week for a set of potentially wrong rotors.
#4
#7
I was going off of these instructions
"1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.
"1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.
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#10
Started taking it apart before the new rotors got here, seems basically the same at SRW, the socket i used was 2 1/2" Powerbuilt 648477. The rotor bolts to the hub just like my old IDI 2wd Dually. My bearings were Timken inside I'm replacing them with SKF, everything looked really good inside
#12
Same rotors, same dimensions. They fit perfect.
One thing i noticed is whoever did the bearings before packed a ton of grease inside of the hubs, I've ve never done bearing that way since the grease really isnt a liquid and isnt going to go anywhere. Is that how you're supposed to do them though? I clean the bearings with brake clean to remove the shipping oil, pack the bearings really good, coat the races and a little extra around but never fill the hubs or put tons of extra in there
One thing i noticed is whoever did the bearings before packed a ton of grease inside of the hubs, I've ve never done bearing that way since the grease really isnt a liquid and isnt going to go anywhere. Is that how you're supposed to do them though? I clean the bearings with brake clean to remove the shipping oil, pack the bearings really good, coat the races and a little extra around but never fill the hubs or put tons of extra in there
#13
#14
While I realize this is an old thread I can shed some light on it. SRW and DRW rotors are different. The rotor is the same size but it's the bolt hole sizes that are different, hence the different part numbers. DRW rotors are made for bolts and the SWR are made for wheel studs. I had a set of each myself and compared them. So while SRW rotors may be able to fit on a DRW hub(not sure how safe it is with larger stud holes), a DRW rotor will not fit on a SRW hub without drilling the rotor holes larger.
#15
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