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Roger that.
As I read accounts of major problems that forum users have had, I always try and determine if this problem is due to a faulty or flawed repair or modification.
The clip from my post was preceded with this statement, "...a friendly reminder to make sure when doing any kind of fuel mod...do it right the first time.." This implies that my fire was the result of a repair or mod that I had done. This was not the case. My engine fire in January involved completely stock parts that were not modified or installed in a non-standard way.
This should be made clear to readers, the message being that they take a close look at their bowl heaters the next time they replace their fuel filter.
Roger that.
As I read accounts of major problems that forum users have had, I always try and determine if this problem is due to a faulty or flawed repair or modification. The clip from my post was preceded with this statement, "...a friendly reminder to make sure when doing any kind of fuel mod...do it right the first time.." This implies that my fire was the result of a repair or mod that I had done. This was not the case. My engine fire in January involved completely stock parts that were not modified or installed in a non-standard way.
This should be made clear to readers, the message being that they take a close look at their bowl heaters the next time they replace their fuel filter.
Thank you for clarifying that portsample.
Reps to you for keeping the facts of "your" clip straight.
The new Gates hose we're using is "Push-Lok" compatible, but existing customers wanting to upgrade to this hose need to be aware that Gates recommends the addition of a clamp in any application where fuel is involved..
this was never told in any thread any place on this forum witch is why I posted it..what was said in that other thread was..that fitting is a barb fitting and should have a clamp...i am talking push lock witch is sapose to work without clamps..i guess gates feels differnt about that....these words are from Gates..not a bunch words from people on a forum..big difference ..so if your doing any fuel lines (Like I am right now) I thought people would keep that in mind....I could have started a new thread with that phrase..but we see where that gets me...sorry for caring...
Originally Posted by portsample
Roger that.
As I read accounts of major problems that forum users have had, I always try and determine if this problem is due to a faulty or flawed repair or modification. The clip from my post was preceded with this statement, "...a friendly reminder to make sure when doing any kind of fuel mod...do it right the first time.." This implies that my fire was the result of a repair or mod that I had done. This was not the case. My engine fire in January involved completely stock parts that were not modified or installed in a non-standard way.
This should be made clear to readers, the message being that they take a close look at their bowl heaters the next time they replace their fuel filter.
you must be pretty slow at posting back..last post was 11/13/10...i didnt notice when the first post was...i guess people here are too smart to miss that like i did..god knows we never see any one post a reply in a 5 year old thread here do we??...i also got hell for posting non sponsor link and other forum links wich is why i didnt post a link here...
what's in red is a separate paragraph and is not part of your post...your post simply shows a stock truck..I see no mods what so ever any place under that hood..I thought people here where smart enough to see that too..there too busy looking for a way to **** on me instead..it is a simple reminder to pay attention to what your doing...as you can read for your self in post onea fire can and does happen..(so many people here think it cant happen by the ## of post I been reading).one even said people Jerry rig all the time...ya...now there is a guy i want working on my truck...a lot of people are doing fuel mods to there trucks right now...with cold weather here hoses and oring get hard and leak..we as owners fix them our selves...because of the cold, trucks are running longer un attended....
how often do you hear brake flued start fires?? ford felt they needed a recal because of it didnt they??
I believe the fire melted the oring and that is why the heater twisted inside and looked like it shorted out...heaters and senders just dont twist around by them selves inside the bowl....i believe it started the same way the cruse control started its fire..when the oring melted it loosend the sender and heater up allowing it to move around...when a heater shorts out it blows the fuse to the heater and the PCM wich shuts the truck down...the post said you shut the truck down witch tells me the heater did not short out yet....but thats nether here nor there..the point is...fire can and do happen..
I guess this is not the place for me....i cant make a post and not get some one panties in a bunch.... I want my supporter logo gone..I cant be apart of this place any more.....
who told me these trucks wont catch fire from a fuel leak?
I do believe that was me Except I said
Originally Posted by F350-6
While anything is possible, how many threads have we seen over the years where a sleeve or o-rings have flooded the valley, dumped a bunch of fuel, and caused the clutch to be soaked with diesel and slip? Luckily for us, diesel fuel isn't too quick to ignite, and the valley tends to drain in relatively safe places, so we haven't heard about diesel in the valley burning up too many trucks.
Not quite saying they won't catch, just saying it's rare. And as discussed, the problems in the picture appear to be electrical in nature and not related to fuel at all. Still a fire is a fire and your point about the brake sensor is a valid one.
Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
a friendly reminder to make sure when doing any kind of fuel mod...do it right the first time..
I'd like to add to this part. No matter how right you think it is, you should also keep an eye on it and maintain it properly. Every company is capable of making a mistake. Weather you're buying a kit from a vendor, or buying parts from your local hydraulic shop to do a fuel bowl delete.
Of course we skip over these types of warnings too often. Doing your own brakes, installing a lift, or most of the other things we do can be disastrous or even fatal if done improperly. Of course having a shop do the work for you still carries the same risks to some extent.
Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
something else i found on the net..
The new Gates hose we're using is "Push-Lok" compatible, but existing customers wanting to upgrade to this hose need to be aware that Gates recommends the addition of a clamp in any application where fuel is involved..
I don't think anyone should argue with this point.
Thanks Pop. I am one of those people that checks the board every 2 or 3 days. Not that there isn't a TON of good info on here, but when you get busy sometimes there just isn't time somedays. As well as looking at other boards like a lot of other guys here. Sometimes it's just nice to see a reminder. I had not seen this before.
Wasn't there a truck that actually burned up a while back from a high pressure oil leak from a EBPV/pedestool seal that let go? I think that seal failing turned into a high pressure oil mist spray on the hot down pipe if I remember correctly.
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