Rear Running Lights not working
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
Rear Running Lights not working
Hey guys! Haven't posted in a while! I miss ya'll!
Anyways, I have yet another problem.
My lights do not work. Well, some of them don't work.
Working Lights:
Signal Lights (Front and rear)
Front Headlights
Brake Lights
Front running lights
Non-Working Lights:
Dash Lights
Rear Running lights
Any idea? I believe it to be the headlight switch, seeing as all of the fuses are okay. Turn signal switch, maybe? I don't know if the rear running lights go through that...
Anyways, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Anyways, I have yet another problem.
My lights do not work. Well, some of them don't work.
Working Lights:
Signal Lights (Front and rear)
Front Headlights
Brake Lights
Front running lights
Non-Working Lights:
Dash Lights
Rear Running lights
Any idea? I believe it to be the headlight switch, seeing as all of the fuses are okay. Turn signal switch, maybe? I don't know if the rear running lights go through that...
Anyways, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Did the Non-Working lights work before? Dash lights could be your IVR, do you have your warning lights, or just your gauge lights, or will the entire cluster not light up?
As for the tail lights, could be your brake switch that's mounted on the pedal.
As for the tail lights, could be your brake switch that's mounted on the pedal.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
The tail-lights did work at one point.. for a time.
Such as, if you hit a bump at night, they might come on, but next bump, they come right back off.
As for dash lights, the warning lights, such as high-beams, brake, and all that work. It's just the lights for the speedometer, gas, oil, etc. that don't work.
Those, the dash lights, have never worked.
Such as, if you hit a bump at night, they might come on, but next bump, they come right back off.
As for dash lights, the warning lights, such as high-beams, brake, and all that work. It's just the lights for the speedometer, gas, oil, etc. that don't work.
Those, the dash lights, have never worked.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Sounds like something is loose in your tail light wiring go over all the sockets/connectors throughout the system and clean them out, and make sure they fit snug. Dielectric grease wouldn't hurt either.
As for the gauge lights, have you ever tried replacing the bulbs?
As for the gauge lights, have you ever tried replacing the bulbs?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
There's also a fuse for the dash lights. Can't help with which one it is, though.
As for the tail lights, sounds like a loose wire. Could be from a trailer light plug having been added, or could be a loose ground. The ground wire can vary from being right behind the light, to well hidden in the harness, depending on year model.
Start with getting a test light, and see if there's power getting to the tail lights. If not, start working your way forward till you find where the power stops.
If there is power getting there, it could be a bad ground, or even as simple as bad bulbs.
As for the tail lights, sounds like a loose wire. Could be from a trailer light plug having been added, or could be a loose ground. The ground wire can vary from being right behind the light, to well hidden in the harness, depending on year model.
Start with getting a test light, and see if there's power getting to the tail lights. If not, start working your way forward till you find where the power stops.
If there is power getting there, it could be a bad ground, or even as simple as bad bulbs.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
From: Dunbarton, NH
I had the same problem with the taillights going on and off and it turned out that the power wire (brown wire on my truck) was broken. I found the break about where the front filler neck is. I put butt connector in and no problem since. As for the dash lights, I'd say check the bulbs first.
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Actually, no, that is not correct...
The Instrument Voltage Regulator lowers the voltage to the instruments only
and has nothing to do with cluster illumination.
The oil pressure, fuel & temperature gauges run at something between 5 & 7
volts, this is to keep normal variations in a vehicle's electrical system from
causing errant readings at the gauges.
Below are the relevant portions of the wiring diagram:
First, the IVR and devices connected to it:
Next, the cluster illumination:
Gauge lights not coming on, yes, there is a fuse, it could also be the headlight
**** is turned all the way to the left and they're all the way dimmed out.
Things that work & don't work with bounces are almost always bad/corroded
connections someplace - either a ground wire (or two or three or...)
improperly done wiring hacks or the connections at the factory connectors
have gotten wet & corroded.
The Instrument Voltage Regulator lowers the voltage to the instruments only
and has nothing to do with cluster illumination.
The oil pressure, fuel & temperature gauges run at something between 5 & 7
volts, this is to keep normal variations in a vehicle's electrical system from
causing errant readings at the gauges.
Below are the relevant portions of the wiring diagram:
First, the IVR and devices connected to it:
Next, the cluster illumination:
Gauge lights not coming on, yes, there is a fuse, it could also be the headlight
**** is turned all the way to the left and they're all the way dimmed out.
Things that work & don't work with bounces are almost always bad/corroded
connections someplace - either a ground wire (or two or three or...)
improperly done wiring hacks or the connections at the factory connectors
have gotten wet & corroded.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Hmmm, well how come after I replaced my IVR, my gauge lights worked? I didn't do anything to the printed circuit at all. I had previously removed the cluster to replace the bulbs, so I don't believe moving the unplugging the connector changed anything, since I had done it before. If the IVR lowers the voltage, then what happens if it's bad? Is there a possibility if in fact it does go bad, it doesn't allow any voltage through?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
number of odd things begin happening (sometimes related to bad electrical
connections and/or conductors) when things are taken apart & put back
together.
But, you can see for yourself that the IVR doesn't touch the backlights.
through and the gauges all peg out (or weird out) together. I guess it'd
theoretically be possible for one to reduce voltage below a usable level
(although I'd expect it to get hot and maybe blow a fuse if it were doing that)
but I've never seen inside of one of those devices and I have no idea how
they operate.
Perhaps one of the others here will offer more....
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 645
Likes: 1
From: Richlands, NC
Should probably tell you what it is, too..
Okay! So I had a bud stand behind the truck and I was moving the headlight switch around, and if I push it in to like, right before the lights turn off, the back lights turn on. Which means,
HEADLIGHT SWITCH!
However, I went back out to see if the dash lights would come on, then I noticed something. When I tried to turn on the back lights again by moving the thing, my radio would go crazy and turn on/off/on/off when the back lights would turn on. The radio was having a spaz, basically.
So! I believe someone, or something, or maybe just cause the switch went out, it's messing with the entire electrical system.
I believe, I am positive, if I switch the switch, my lights will come on, my dash lights will come on, and maybe, just maybe, it will not screw up the electrical anymore and my truck might start up!
I don't know, but at least I know how to fix the lights!
Guess and check worked for once!
Okay! So I had a bud stand behind the truck and I was moving the headlight switch around, and if I push it in to like, right before the lights turn off, the back lights turn on. Which means,
HEADLIGHT SWITCH!
However, I went back out to see if the dash lights would come on, then I noticed something. When I tried to turn on the back lights again by moving the thing, my radio would go crazy and turn on/off/on/off when the back lights would turn on. The radio was having a spaz, basically.
So! I believe someone, or something, or maybe just cause the switch went out, it's messing with the entire electrical system.
I believe, I am positive, if I switch the switch, my lights will come on, my dash lights will come on, and maybe, just maybe, it will not screw up the electrical anymore and my truck might start up!
I don't know, but at least I know how to fix the lights!
Guess and check worked for once!
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Not so fast
Well.....
The headlight switch should in no way cause noise to come out of the radio like that,
sounds like some PO has screwed things nicely. I for some reason doubt the headlight
switch itself is the cause of your problem and that you are merely seeing the results of
some guy's amateurish wiring job when the switch is between contacts.
The ONLY thing the headlight switch should do to the radio is turn on the dial's backlight -
light blue/red stripe, dimmable with the headlight switch.
The radios came out of the factory getting their switched power from a yellow/black-hash
wire.
A wiring diagram might help ya, they're pretty cheap and even the ones in Haynes &
Chilton's might be enough.
The headlight switch should in no way cause noise to come out of the radio like that,
sounds like some PO has screwed things nicely. I for some reason doubt the headlight
switch itself is the cause of your problem and that you are merely seeing the results of
some guy's amateurish wiring job when the switch is between contacts.
The ONLY thing the headlight switch should do to the radio is turn on the dial's backlight -
light blue/red stripe, dimmable with the headlight switch.
The radios came out of the factory getting their switched power from a yellow/black-hash
wire.
A wiring diagram might help ya, they're pretty cheap and even the ones in Haynes &
Chilton's might be enough.
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