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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 10:07 AM
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big blue diesel
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ats turbo

this is for dave. is the aurora turbo worth the money for my 7.3 idi diesel and they only make one, and if the heads are good with new bolts i should ok with a max boost of 12 right, see i am getting ready to buy this turbo and i want to do it right once.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 03:03 PM
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rupejosh
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Originally Posted by big blue diesel
this is for dave. is the aurora turbo worth the money for my 7.3 idi diesel and they only make one, and if the heads are good with new bolts i should ok with a max boost of 12 right, see i am getting ready to buy this turbo and i want to do it right once.
im not dave but i figure i would throw my opinion out there.if your buying an aurora turbo you might as well buy a set of head studs and really do it right so you can actually use more of the turbo.but if you dont put studs in you should be fine with 12psi boost but why worry when you can just put studs in?if it was me i would stud it just for preventative reasons.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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with head studs how much boost is real. and does the engine have to be out for heads to go back on after heads installed, heater box one side break booster on the other.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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I'm still not THEE Dave you are looking for, but I'm gonna say no, its not worth the cost. The turbo kit is still calibrated for only 7-8 psi and modding will be needed to get past the mid teens.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 08:30 PM
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Dave Sponaugle
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I have never had my hands on an Aurora turbo.
So I can't say if the boost is as easy to adjust as it is on the 093 system or what kind of boost it is capable of.
Just guessing, I bet it is capable of everything the 093 was and possibly even more.

As long as boost levels stay below 12 PSI on a 7.3 you should have no problems with stock head bolts.

7 or 8 PSI will make it like a new truck as far as performance goes.
If you are looking to push it harder, I do recommend head studs which should keep you safe up to 20 PSI boost with stock pistons.

To properly install the head studs, the engine needs to be out of the truck or the cab removed.

ARP recommends torqing down the heads in steps, then removing the nuts in steps four times before the final install to torque.
This wears the nuts and stud threads to each other for more accurate torque readings, and as a side note I noticed my nuts were almost 1 full turn tighter after the last install when I reached my torque value.

A couple of the rear head bolts will not come out of the head bolt holes because the cab is in the way.
Likewise the head studs will not go in either for the same reason.

Plus, think about sitting in the engine bay running all those bolts down in steps five times and removing them four times, that makes my back hurt just thinking about it.
 
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