When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’m new here and this is my first post. My son recommended these forums as a great place to get advice and ask questions. I’m sure I’ll have tons of questions, as a matter of fact I have several questions running around in my thick skull as I write this.
I just purchased a well kept 1965 F250 Camper Special 2 wd, manual 4 speed that stayed in the same family in Ohio for 60 years. The body has very little rust and no big dents or dings and has had one amateur paint job taking the truck from Rangoon Red to Maroon. I was told the original FE 352 motor started smoking and the owner took it to a shop to be rebuilt…but the shop owner had a newly rebuilt FE 390 that he wanted to sell and that was put in the truck. The original FE 352 motor came with the truck thrown in the bed! Bonus for me! Once I tackle all the projects to get my truck road worthy…my plan is to rebuild the original 352 motor, tearing it down to the block, having the block checked for cracks and then hopefully rebuilding it. Then if or when my truck needs another motor I’ll have one! Also the project of rebuilding a motor that is basically the same as the one in my truck other stroke length and bore will help me learn all about how an FE engine works.
I once heard that one way to keep your brain sharp was to learn new things, like a second language or how to play an instrument or take up painting, etc. I thought to myself, what about learning to “wrench” on an old truck? As my contemporaries are learning how to use Artificial Intelligence to self publish books, compose new music, create great works of art or launch the latest business venture…I yearn for something hands on that is as far from new technology as possible. A project (adventure) I can lose myself in.
I often yearn to discover a dark hole I can crawl through and find my way back to the 1980’s, a simple era before the internet, I was just reaching adulthood, giving birth to my son and trying to figure out what I wanted to be when I grew up (I’m still trying to figure that out at 60). I am grateful for the life I have enjoyed so far, the highs the lows all of it. I don’t have any regrets, sure with hindsight I’d do some things differently, who wouldn’t. I guess growing weary of all the latest technology is a sure sign that I’m finally getting old.
So learning to “wrench” on an old truck should suffice in keeping the neurons firing. I think I found the PERFECT project! I wanted something the same age as me…for some reason that seemed to matter. It couldn’t be too complicated or technical, I wanted something all mechanical not electrical and being a farm gal I was drawn more to trucks than cars. I’m not interested in winning car shows, that will never be my goal, but I’m looking forward to meeting like minded people that carry the faint smell of old classic trucks and cars and have well worn calloused hands with just a touch of grease under their fingernails. These pictures where taken this past Friday and Saturday, Memorial Day weekend, 5/2026 My son and I, right after loading the 65 F250 onto the trailer in the rain. Got her HOME! From Columbus, OH to Jackson Creek, NC
Welcome to FTE, that’s a real nice truck. When you’ve time, post a bunch more photos, interior, engine bay, everything. Enjoy getting to know your new vehicle, and improving it as you go.
My 1965 F250 c/s truck came with some instruction notes that indicated that the previous owner suspected there might be a pinhole in the fuel uptake steel line inside the gas tank. The note reads, that the tank needs topped off before driving anywhere and that the truck is good for 20 to 30 miles before it quits sending fuel to the fuel pump. The tank is behind the seat and I can loosen the steel line from the top of the tank that goes to the fuel pump, but I’m not sure how to get the uptake line out of the fuel tank. Does anyone know any tricks to get that uptake line out of the tank? Is that a line that can be replaced? I’d like to drain the tank dry and then put a scope and light down in it to see how rusty or what kind of shape the tank is in. I’ll buy a new tank if I need to, but I don’t want to if it’s not necessary. I thought about putting a gas can in the bed of the truck and running a fuel line directly to the fuel pump to bypass the gas tank to see if that’s really the problem. The truck has an electrical fuel pump put in that’s not original. I’m wondering if that wasn’t done because of these problems and it didn’t fix the problem so now they’re suspecting it’s the uptake fuel line inside the tank. Also, the gas gauge doesn’t appear to work. I could use a few pointers on how to check if the sending unit needs replaced. See pictures. Fuel tank How to get tube out of tank? How to get steel uptake pipe out of tank? Gas tank behind seat, external line disconnected. Instructions that came with truck…Good to know! Instructions tucked into the envelope of paperwork that came with my truck
Welcome to FTE!
The fuel line in the tank along with the inverted flare fitting is one piece it is spot welded and soldered to the tank and cannot be easily removed and there are no replacements available. Replacing the tank is the simplest and safest thing to do. To test the fuel sender, it needs to be removed and checked with an ohm meter it should read 8-12 ohms with the rod full up and 60-86 ohms at the full down position.
I would suggest you buy a shop manual for your truck they are available on e-bay, Amazon etc. as originals, reprints, or CD's and thumb drives. Also, the advanced search feature on this forum is quite good at answering a lot of questions.
…my plan is to rebuild the original 352 motor, tearing it down to the block, having the block checked for cracks and then hopefully rebuilding it. Then if or when my truck needs another motor I’ll have one! Also the project of rebuilding a motor that is basically the same as the one in my truck other stroke length and bore will help me learn all about how an FE engine works.
LOL. Do you realize FE's are very expensive to build? And that the original 352 pistons you need do not exist? I would suggest you scrap that idea and focus your funds on the truck. It's going to need them.
Welcome to FTE. Nice find.
As has already been suggested, the shop manuals are a good idea. Tons of info and will learn a lot with them. Should download a copy of the wiring diagram too. I added a copy of that below. As far as the repairs that are needed, I would suggest that the notes left by the PO be used only as suggestions. For example, a faulty fuel cap could starve the engine of fuel after driving for a bit. Would be pound foolish to change the tank only to find that the problem persists. My point being, there can be many causes for the same problem. Good troubleshooting habits will point you to the correct cause rather than throwing money at mere possibilities. It's easy to pull the sending unit and get your eyes on the line in the tank. Maybe start there. Also, while those starting procedure tips might be helpful now, they are signs that something else is not right. A properly tuned engine should need 1 squirt, set the choke and then run. You could change a dozen parts there that "could" be the cause but learning to troubleshoot will get you right the first time (usually). Some people have tons of money to throw at problems. I don't. Also when the truck is stuck on the side of the road, things go much easier when you know what's wrong rather than you think you know. Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Welcome to FTE. Nice find.
As has already been suggested, the shop manuals are a good idea. Tons of info and will learn a lot with them. Should download a copy of the wiring diagram too. I added a copy of that below. As far as the repairs that are needed, I would suggest that the notes left by the PO be used only as suggestions. For example, a faulty fuel cap could starve the engine of fuel after driving for a bit. Would be pound foolish to change the tank only to find that the problem persists. My point being, there can be many causes for the same problem. Good troubleshooting habits will point you to the correct cause rather than throwing money at mere possibilities. It's easy to pull the sending unit and get your eyes on the line in the tank. Maybe start there. Also, while those starting procedure tips might be helpful now, they are signs that something else is not right. A properly tuned engine should need 1 squirt, set the choke and then run. You could change a dozen parts there that "could" be the cause but learning to troubleshoot will get you right the first time (usually). Some people have tons of money to throw at problems. I don't. Also when the truck is stuck on the side of the road, things go much easier when you know what's wrong rather than you think you know. Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Thanks for your 2 cents…priceless advice. Learning to troubleshoot and wrench was the whole purpose for this project. I grew up on a farm and still am a farmer, so I have some basic mechanical skills, I can weld and run a plasma cutter and know which tools are what, as my job most of my life has been to hold the light and hand off the 1/2” socket or grab the big pipe wrench, etc. What I want to learn…is exactly how an old engine works, its mechanical parts and how it all fits together. It seems marvelous to me and I love the smell of an old motor.
Good news is…my truck came with the wiring diagram manual, illustrated facts and feature manual as well as volume 2 of the shop manual (my favorite). And I have ordered the entire 3 volume set of the shop manuals on eBay, it was cheaper to buy an old set than to buy volume 1 and 3 separately. I certainly don’t have money to waste or throw away on a new gas tank if it’s not needed. Trouble shooting is certainly in order. So I have removed the sending unit and looked into my tank with a flashlight. The pickup line is shiny silver steel and no sign of rust, the tank is 5/8 full and just below the level of the fuel the line makes a slight bend…so unless the bend has caused some sort of pin hole? So using logic to test what the PO wrote…I’m going to siphon off about half the gas in the tank (it’s an 18 gallon tank) and see if she runs and for how long. Also, you are spot on…she cranks with one pump of the gas pedal.. PO did install cheap electric fuel pump sometime in the past and I am planning on taking that out and installing a mechanical one… as a matter of fact the old mechanical pump is still attached to motor, so I know where it goes, at least. The original gas cap is on the truck…I understand they are supposed to vent…but not sure how? As the cap is solid…maybe it vents in how it screws on…I’ll look into that…. Any..hooo. Tony, thank you for your kind and helpful advice, much appreciated. -Seamore
Here is a picture of an original vented on the right and aftermarket cap that is only vented in not out. The new type would not cause it to quit but will cause pressure to build up when parked. You can use the new type by drilling a 1/16 hole in the check valve.
Here is a picture of an original vented on the right and aftermarket cap that is only vented in not out. The new type would not cause it to quit but will cause pressure to build up when parked. You can use the new type by drilling a 1/16 hole in the check valve.
I've had more than 1 replacement caps fail in the sense that they did not allow air in, creating a negative pressure in the tank which prevented the fuel pump from drawing fuel. First time it happened I was left scratching my head for days because just by removing the cap or or opening a fuel line the problem disappeared. Until the next time. Drilling a hole with prevent a problem either way.
My horn ring index plate has broken plastic clips…. So I ordered a replacement. What else will I need? What am I missing between the horn ring and the steering wheel/column?
I ordered a little brush spring thingy and also a bigger horn spring.
-Seamore Busted horn ring clip Steering wheel column Came with horn ring…but busted clip
Curious, where did you get one? I need one and DC is out of stock. I only broke 1 tab so the horn ring still hangs on, but.... I think this is the 4th one I've replaced. If they used better plastic they wouldn't be so brittle.
Welcome to FTE! Good looking starting point! I would start with the easy stuff first on the fuel, new cap, maybe go back to a mechanical pump, then see how it does. Congrats on the new truck!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
