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I re-did my gauge panel and put a new speedometer in. I got the speedometer from Summit as they had the best price but it sees to be the same one all the restoration companies sell.
I painted the needles and am very happy with how they came out. I also painted the needle on the speedometer as it was a bit more orange than the other needles and since it is so big I wanted it to match. The trick is to load up the brush and drag it across the needle with the goal being to do it all in one coat and a single swipe. I didn't always get the single swipe but one heavy coat worked perfectly. It dries a matte finish pretty quickly.
I mounted them all back in and put a different temp gage in as I wasn't sure mine was working properly. I think it is working but am not 100% sure yet. I have another thread on it.
I didn't open the gauge cluster up and clean the glass or paint the bezel. I decided I wanted to leave it a little weathered like the rest of the interior.
I got a new 6v temp Sender and tested it and think it is working. The water got too cool to really tell so I am going to test it again tomorrow with the new gauge. It seems that sender works but the issue is it is a 3/8 NPT thread and the block is 1/4 NPT. I ordered a reducer but I know the sender barrel won't fit through it and I will have to drill it out. It looks there there should be enough material to do that. If not I am going to have a machine shop make me up a fitting so the barrel has a tight friction fit. That will keep the threads from cracking when it goes into the block as the sender barrel will support the threads/fitting.
I won't be able to full test the sender and gauge or speedometer until spring when I can put it on the road and hopefully it won't turn into a re-do.
I think the next thing in the list is the first out change and taking a crack at the repairing the heater valve again.
Needles before During painting All done I took an acid brush and trimmed the bristlws back tightly so I could control the width of the paint being applied Finished Reinstalled. Not sure why the needle is sitting where it is. Hopefully it's not broken.
Quote: "I didn't open the gauge cluster up and clean the glass or paint the bezel. I decided I wanted to leave it a little weathered like the rest of the interior."
Your bezel looks great for not being repainted. And your interior is not a little weathered!
Aaaargh. Summit wants me to return the speedometer so I have to take the the whole cluster out again. I think I will buy the replacement somewhere else. There seem to be 2 styles. One with an oval shaped high beam hole and one with a round. Mine is definitely the round hole which is the one I got from Summit. LMC also has a round hole so I will probably get it from them. Ecklers and Classic industries has the oval shaped hole.
I tested my temp gauge and sender using an infrared thermometer. Where the gauge reads based on Temp in the pics below. It reads at about 3/4 at 190* and about 1/3 at 155*. I don't know what the typical operating temperature is and I can't remember if I bought a 180* or 160* thermostat. I know it was whatever the stock one is supposed to be. It looks like around 170* it would be at the center. I ordered another temp sender which is 1/4NPT and won't require an adapter. After researching it looks like it should work. I will have it in about a week and will test and decide which one to use.
Round high beam hole Oval high beam hole 190* 155*
I have only done it this one time, out and in. However when I took it out I undid the screws and pushed it back into the dash and then put 2 layers of blue tape all around the edge of the dash frame to protect it. I also layer a cloth down on top of the steering column so I wouldn't scratch the bezel or the column while I disconnected it.
It still got a little marked up anyway as I hadn't done it before and didn't know how to get it out. This next time will go a little smoother. But I didn't want to take it out again so I could avoid possibly scratching it up.
When I know Summit is taking it back I will order another one from LMC and then do the swap all at once so I don't have the gauge cluster sitting out where I can manage to accidentally break it.
Summit sent me a new one and the situation was exactly the same. They said it needed to be calibrated but couldn't tell me how to do that and said they would contact the manufacturer and get back to me which the never did. I left the original one I bought in and sent the replacement back as I didn't want to take the dash apart again. I backed it out of the garage and the needle is now buried where it can't be seen. So at this point all is left is to drive it and see if it works.
Getting ready to take it out and did the first oil change on the new motor. I will do a separate post but when I removed the oil filter and went to dump it out no excess oil came out of it. Not sure if that is normal given it is side mounted.
Also the vent tube pushes some oily black soot out which gets on the back of the motor and transmission. which I assume is normal. It's messy to clean up. Does anyone have any kind of filter on the end of theirs that doesn't restrict the venting but catches some of that oil and soot?
I changed the oil and put a new gasket on the drain plug. Took it for a 7 mike drive a couple of days ago and it seems like I am clear of any significant oil leaks, meaning anything that actively drips. But that is a pretty short test. Will find out more over the coming weeks.
I did see some coolant under the truck and couldn't figure out where it was coming from. Turns out the heat cycling from the first 500 miles got the hose clamps loose. Every coolant clamp needed to be tightened and the leak seemed to be coming from the upper radiator hose. When I put the inline temp sensor in we will find out for sure if that fixed it.
My speedometer needle is hung up on the gauge housing. Aaargh. Need to take it apart again and see if it can be easily adjusted. If not, time for another speedometer housing.
Took out my gauge cluster and adjusted the speedometer so the needle will move. I need some good weather to test it out.
I also put my heater control valve back on that I tried to do a repair on and we will see if it leaks when I drive it again.
My windshield wipers are only working on one speed now so I am not sure if it is the switch or motor. I am guessing the switch. My Blower motor is also only operating on one speed and that is definitely the switch. and I need to figure out a solution for that.
I will make separate posts on those two Items.....
I have a very slight oil leak coming through the weep hole in the flywheel cover. Since there is a weep hole in the first place I assume it is not unusual. It must be a bad seal but all the seals were replaced when the enigine was rebuilt. Other than that no other leaks which is a big step forward.
Did the first oil change and I am down to a couple of oil drips left to resolve which I probably will just leave well enough alone given these older motors all leaked somewhere at some time. I didn't have an accurate dipstick reading so I put exactly 6 quarts in and took a reading so I know what the correct oil level is now.
I diagnosed my speedometer and still don't have it working so I am going to buy a new cable and return the old speedometer so Resolution Pending.
Glad you are getting your gremlins chased away. There’s no better feeling than going out, firing up the old truck and taking her for a spin just like she’s a daily driver.
My 350 fires up just as quick as any vehicle in the driveway. And slowly I’m building my confidence in longer drives. I’ve yet to venture further than 15 miles from the house, but have done well over 50 miles in a trip.
But she is doing what I want her to do. Short run heavy hauler. 1500# on the back actually makes for a smoother ride. lol.
