I should have known better than to buy auto parts via Amazon. But, take a look at the rear window that arrived today and tell me if you see a problem.
I think the window was out of the box for 2 hours before I packed it for a return.


I like some good curves ... in the right places, but not in a flat/straight window opening.

 

I was really really happy with my ebay slider window out of a 1996 f150 with gasket

 

Really? Was it curved/bowed? If not, I'll keep that in mind.

Guys, does the top of your rubber seal on the rear window sit in the groove/recess, or does it ride above it?

 

Im sorry I didn't really check for either of those. I do know i set it on a truck crossover toolbox to get it up and out of the way while it waited till i had time to get it installed, and it layed flat on it.
not sure if these pictures help at all?

 

Yes, Kubota, the photos helped. I had to stop work on the rear slider installation because I was getting too frustrated.
I installed the gas fill up covers and the rear bumper. I also cleaned the tailgate latch and hinge, as well as the long, folding tg arm, and painted them black.
I found that my instrument panel lens got over-spray on it so I have to replace it. It's on the way.
Today I will remove the too tight widow seals from LMC, since ALL their glass is now thinner than oem glass, and their seals are designed for the thin glass. Of course they don't mention that to their customers. Ouch.

Note to self: When spraying in a confined space, with parts hanging around you, be mindful when you step backwards.


I went to install the toolbox latch. I glued on the new weather strip, tested the latch mechanism many times while holding it in my hand. I installed it and tested it several more times. All good. I closed the tool box and the latch failed. I could lift the handle, but it would not disengage.
It's moment like that make me so happy.

 

Sometimes it helps to break stuff and yell

 

That is true. I tossed the slider in the trash.
Put on the door handles and new locks.
Tore out the LMC window seal kit and installed new ones from NPD. Now I can actually roll up and down the windows. Driver's side needed oil. Can you believe that? I had to put motor oil on the slides to be able to open/close the window with one hand. I'm hoping that it is stiff like a pair of new leather boots and will break in with use. If every part in the doors was oem it would effortlessly open and close. But one of my windows is aftermarket. Both crank mechanisms are MIChina, the metal slide on the bottom of both windows is am, and all the seals are made in who knows where. Quite a bit got lost in translation. I'm happy the windows open and close. Hopefully they'll seal.
When I get really frustrated with working on a vehicle, I remember that in Gibralter, many years ago, the junkyard was a cliff and you just pushed your car over the side. Thinking about the possibility reassures me.

 

Yesterday I learned a trick. Usually I use 3m weather strip adhesive (the yellow stuff, aka Canary bird s...t) but with that I would have to clamp it in the corners and allow 24 hours to dry. Now I use super glue, dry in 15 seconds and works great. Just wear gloves.

Funny story: After I installed the weather stripping the door would not close correctly. At the latch post it protruded about 3/8". Wtheck? I adjusted the post. Didn't help. I adjusted the hinges. Didn't help. After about an hour of fooling with it every way I knew, I got upset, muttered a choice curse word and slammed the door. To my surprise it closed with perfect alignment! I had not closed the door enough. Had a good chuckle.

I'm putting on all the cosmetic stuff and the truck is really looking good. I can't wait to see it with the moldings and the wheel well moldings on. I got the stereo, with amplifier! and Boston speakers hooked up. Man, it rocks! I pull up to a light with the tunes blazing and the elderly couple turns to see what they assume is a kid, only to see me with a big grin.

I have to say that with all the sound dampening material on the floor, a new insulation sheet on the firewall, double sound dampener in the doors and the ceiling, there is a completely different feel in the truck. It feels more solid, less tinny. I like it. The new seat cover and foam, new carpet, new instrument panel lens, I feel like I'm in a new truck. Hoorah.

There is so much more room in the garage w/o the boxes of parts laying around.

 

We called it the "yellow death" because that is how long it holds. I find the following to work well with the adhesive, black or yellow.

First step was cleaning the door top, front and rear surfaces with alcohol, twice, letting it dry. I also applied adhesive pretty liberally both on the bottom of the rubber and where I want it., used Permatex black (like yellow, just is black) Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, by directions. I applied the seals starting at the front about even with the interior light button switch, then up the front in my step 1 ... then across the top above the glass as my step 2 ... finally down the back to the corner of the lock mechanism's clip where I trimmed it as my step 3. I left the doors open for a good while to let it "gas out" as I kept pressing all along the length. I had blue masking tape holding the seal in place as I worked from section to section. (tear off some few sections tape and place close by) I was able to let the portions on the rubber hang to skim over and not hit the door or panel. Windows were both rolled down.

I found that ... for me ... it worked to apply adhesive to a section of the seal, then to the door section, then make the last application to the seal now skimmed over by which time when done the door was skimmed over ready for the application (seal-door-seal) ... OR ... to do the door, then seal, then lastly the door as by then it was skimmed over (door-seal-door). I did it both ways but both times started at the door front just above the switch button level. I marked "stop/start" points with a piece of the blue masking tape.

There is some powerful, quick drying (evaporating) solvent in the super weatherstrip adhesive, if you rub it too much when first applied it'll lift paint, but then it dries fast .... why you apply to both pieces, let skim or dry some, then that last application works to bond it all together.

You will likely find the doors take a firm press with an open palm as you shut the last one with the windows rolled up, and if pulling it behind you a firm steady pull. A window rolled down helps a bunch, lets air pass.

It is an exciting time.

 

Hey there, tbear. I did ZERO prep work. I squeezed out some super glue, squeezed the weather strip for 15 seconds. Done. Moved on. Did that about every 10" and before I knew it it was done. Badda bing.

 

I went to the JY and found a low milage 92 or a 96 reg cab (honestly can't remember) and took the seals off. They are the ones with the metal clamp strip inside and just push onto the cabs pinch seam. Paid 5 bucks for both and then come home and started in the upper rear corner and tapped them in place.

The lower back corner had a curve in a little bit different place by just a small bit, but you can not really notice. Then did a little trim (with a 4.5 cut off wheel) to shorten where the 2 ends come together under the sill plate. Bada bing boom No clue, No clamp, No wait 24 hours. Yes I have to sort of agressivily close the door now, those newer seals seal tight. If I leave the window cracked just a bit, it is easier.



Yes I wish it joined ends any where else than the high foot traffic area.

Even fit over my cab handle hdwr inside and out.

You can see the lower rear corner has a little bit different curve area on the newer truck. Like the newer cabs are a little bit taller. But the upper front and rear bends match awesome.

You can see the bend difference in the lower rear corner in the sun light.

 

T bear I love your seat, its exactly what Im looking for.

 

Very nice. How did you know you could use the seals off a later model?
Well, today I should have my rear window in, and I'll test/try my stereo head unit. I have to say that I've been driving a car with satelite radio and I don't think I can go back to am/fm. So, converting to a unit that is ready to play satelite radio is on the horizon. But for now....
I can't wait to take the truck on the freeway and rate the noise level at 60mph. Before, there was so much road noise that I could not hear google on my phone. How is it now?
Hopefully the rear slider that arrives today will fit and work well.

The next step is I have to spray the tailgate. Does anyone know of a good way to make a stand for the tg to be sprayed on?

 

Yeah, XM about ruined AM/FM for me too. I use a SkyFi 1 and docking station in all my vehicles except the Forester, it was too much trouble to change and it already was XM capable. My '77 is set up with old AM/FM & modulator that feeds the docking station signal in on FM ... it is a wired modulator wires into antenna feed, but you can get wireless ones that send the XM signal to the radio antenna.

My painter hung my new TG from his shop rafters to prime & paint it, then after it was dry, etc, he mounted it. I recall was some stiff wire like hooks (he formed) coming out at hinge holes then chain or rope to rafters.

About those later model door seals, I recall was several doing that. I considered it myself but by then, had my new ones on hand, so I used them. The later model ones that slip onto and grip a lip require some finessing there at the bottom of the door opening, there's no lip to grip. I think folks flattened the grip part and maybe glued it to the floor under carpet and sill plate, but not sure. I did put my "joint" near the top of the rear slant.

 

This was my solution. My truck came with a couple of tire irons and they fit perfectly in the TG holes.