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I got some over-spray on my hood. I was thinking to wait for the paint/clear to cure a couple of weeks, and then to buff it with some rubbing compound to remove the os, and then to give it some wax.
Is there a better way? Is my method not to correct one? Thanks for the replies.
I was so used to the truck being blue and white that it sort of freaks me out every time I see it. I guess that will pass in time.
"freaks me out every time I see it" LOL, it looks great!!
I spent today cleaning the inside of the cab. Major dust. And finally got the dome light working...well for one door. I found that the driver's door switch was missing one of the prongs on the male side of plug. I didn't think it possible to buy a replacement, so I took a piece of a paper clip and with needle nose pliers I shoved it into the missing prong hole, joined the two sides of the plug, and shazam, I had power. Let there be light! First time in ...10 years?
I also mounted the bed to the frame, but my phone is not playing nice with that photo.
I had the two gas cap cover lids hanging in the garage and after spraying them, I was bending over spraying the bed and backed right into one of the covers. It now has a nice pattern of my shirt imbedded in it. So happy.
I got the oem rivets from Marti and installed my vin tag on the door. It promptly fell off and since the Marti rivets were trash, I used normal pop rivets. If the DMV says anything, I'm going to tell them to, well, you know.
I also broke out my new shiny dash bezel and after feeling really good about life and myself, I installed my old Pioneer stereo and AFR gauge.
I spent today cleaning the inside of the cab. Major dust. And finally got the dome light working...well for one door. I found that the driver's door switch was missing one of the prongs on the male side of plug. I didn't think it possible to buy a replacement, so I took a piece of a paper clip and with needle nose pliers I shoved it into the missing prong hole, joined the two sides of the plug, and shazam, I had power.
Looking good.
There is hope, I had to replace both of mine, they self adjust once you install..
Ha! I should have known that they were out there somewhere. Thx for finding that.
Not quite sure how to address the passenger side switch. It is in good shape, but no power. I traced the wires and they disappear into the harness. So, where do I go from there?
Pay no mind to the red radio highlight. So IMO best to try and find the break in the wire and make sure it is not going to cause other elec issues/shorts/melt down. Yes it is only 12V but I would want to find the issue to be safe. And yes getting deep into that harness is not going to be easy with the dash in place.
Any chance there was something was tapped into the harness some where? Or any rodent damage? Any wiring added for driving lights, stereo, ect? If you are not wanting to dig deep and feel good about it, but want the passenger side to work, just run new wires from the dvr side to power the passenger side switch.
Gotta have both pages of the diagram.
Door switches are on this one.
Version 2 of the above.
My driver side button just sticks, like gummed up maybe. I can grab it and just barely pull and the lights come on, I can just barely twist it and get the same result. I don't recall it ever being different.
My pass side, the plastic button is broken flush like maybe something got caught as a door shut, and it is maybe jambed off?
All lights lite up with the headlight ****.
I guess I should order / replace both door buttons.
My driver side button just sticks, like gummed up maybe. I can grab it and just barely pull and the lights come on, I can just barely twist it and get the same result. I don't recall it ever being different.
Give it a good dose of WD-40 and work it.
That's how I fixed both of mine.
Every once in a while I walk around my truck and squirt a little WD-40 on every latch, hinge and inside the key cylinders.
It keeps them working like new.
Guys,
On a separate but somewhat related WD-40 note. I had a friend that was a mechanic. If he got a little upset or the boss was giving him a hard time he would pull out the can of WD-40 and go around to each wheel/ caster on his tool chest and lube them up good and set the WD-40 in plain site on the corner of the tool box. The point was that he could move to a new job at any time, Just push him a little more! I have told this to our grandson Mike who is a good mechanic. We have moved him 5 times. The wheels on his very heavy tool box roll very well!
Chris and Cheryl
Pay no mind to the red radio highlight. So IMO best to try and find the break in the wire and make sure it is not going to cause other elec issues/shorts/melt down. Yes it is only 12V but I would want to find the issue to be safe. And yes getting deep into that harness is not going to be easy with the dash in place.
Any chance there was something was tapped into the harness some where? Or any rodent damage? Any wiring added for driving lights, stereo, ect? If you are not wanting to dig deep and feel good about it, but want the passenger side to work, just run new wires from the dvr side to power the passenger side switch.
Gotta have both pages of the diagram.
Door switches are on this one.
Version 2 of the above.
Dude, you are the king of diagrams, that is for certain. Thanks. I'm copying and pasting for use.
Originally Posted by tbear853
My driver side button just sticks, like gummed up maybe. I can grab it and just barely pull and the lights come on, I can just barely twist it and get the same result. I don't recall it ever being different.
My pass side, the plastic button is broken flush like maybe something got caught as a door shut, and it is maybe jambed off?
All lights lite up with the headlight ****.
I guess I should order / replace both door buttons.
You're kinda slacking off. That's a joke.
Originally Posted by Rubiranch
Give it a good dose of WD-40 and work it.
That's how I fixed both of mine.
Every once in a while I walk around my truck and squirt a little WD-40 on every latch, hinge and inside the key cylinders.
It keeps them working like new.
Yeah, I think we all should do that.
Originally Posted by Effies 56
Guys,
On a separate but somewhat related WD-40 note. I had a friend that was a mechanic. If he got a little upset or the boss was giving him a hard time he would pull out the can of WD-40 and go around to each wheel/ caster on his tool chest and lube them up good and set the WD-40 in plain site on the corner of the tool box. The point was that he could move to a new job at any time, Just push him a little more! I have told this to our grandson Mike who is a good mechanic. We have moved him 5 times. The wheels on his very heavy tool box roll very well!
Chris and Cheryl
Great story. I enjoyed that.
Well, I ran into an unexpected problem today. I went to re-install the rear window with an LMC rubber, and it would not fit. I tried the rubber 3 diff ways and nothing doing. So I went on LMC and found that a new one cost $365 iirc. That meant over $400 with tax, and then the wonderful ...people at LMC wanted to charge me $100 to deliver it. That was too much. I went on Amazon and bought one for $399 with the rubber and free delivery. It'll be here Tuesday. With LMC it takes them 4 days just to put the thing in the mail. I checked everywhere else before Amazon. NPD had them for $200, but out of stock.
Last edited by F-250 restorer; Mar 1, 2026 at 12:45 AM.
Dude, you are the king of diagrams, that is for certain. Thanks. I'm copying and pasting for use.
Thank you I could not do it with out the community, and FYI all that and than and then some more is right here. Been here for years, copy and past and build your own lap top or PC library. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...then-some.html
I worked on getting the door windows installed. I installed and removed the wind wing 3 times before I got it right. I have to say that putting in the window seals/channels was a bear. Finally, I broke out the 3m weatherstrip adhesive (aka gorilla snot) and clamped the channel.
I installed new door locks since the ones that were on the truck were original and the key no longer had teeth, just smooth slopes.
I also ground off a bit of my LMC door handle so it would fit. I also took a razor and shaved off the tabs on the LMC (do you see a pattern?) door handle seals.
Before I connected the linkages, I replaces all the plastic rod ends. It may be over-kill to replace these all, but I consider it preventive maintenance.
So, the million dollar question is will the LMC seals and channels fit my oem thickness glass??? I ask this because when I ordered a replacement window from LMC, it came thinner than oem, so are all their window channels and seals designed for the thinner glass or oem thickness??
I find it amazing that assembling a door can take so much time.
Last edited by F-250 restorer; Mar 2, 2026 at 09:50 PM.
Hello, I am familiar with this work. I did the same thing not long ago. Once the handles and lock are installed, please test everything thoroughly. On my passenger door, I had to extend a linkage so that the door handle would actually open the lock.
Otherwise, very good work.
Best regards, Bernd 61 HD
Hello, I am familiar with this work. I did the same thing not long ago. Once the handles and lock are installed, please test everything thoroughly. On my passenger door, I had to extend a linkage so that the door handle would actually open the lock.
Otherwise, very good work.
Best regards, Bernd 61 HD
Thank you, Bernd 61 HD. I will check that all the mechanisms function correctly. I appreciate your help.
Problem: Yesterday I installed LMC window seals and the new window up/down gear/mechanism. This morning I have to use two hands to roll up the window!! Such force will ruin the mechanism quickly. Do the plastic pieces that hold the seals come out? Are we supposed to slide the seal into those holders first, and then install the holders/plastic pieces back into position?
A while back I ordered a replacement drivers window from LMC. It came and was thinner than oem glass. So I can't help but wonder whether the seals I have were designed to seal the thinner glass???? I will open a new thread about this.
Hello, how thick are your panes? I can measure my panes tomorrow. I first placed the glass pane in the door and then installed the guide rail. Only then did I install the mechanism.
Regards, Bernd 61 HD
