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Steve,
Your friend is lucky to have your help! You did really nice/neat work on those brake lines.
Q1) How do you make your tight "vibration dampening' loops (as you did on the '72 Sport Custom and the '69 Ranger)?
Q2) Why didn't you bend up any loops with the '65 setup?
Q3) What model year is the cast-iron dual reservoir MC installed on the '65?
Q4) I agree that it looks sharp, but isn't the outer 'spring wrap' primarily/technically usually installed over brake lines for protection purposes - why have it up by the MC?
Steve,
Your friend is lucky to have your help! You did really nice/neat work on those brake lines.
Q1) How do you make your tight "vibration dampening' loops (as you did on the '72 Sport Custom and the '69 Ranger)?
Q2) Why didn't you bend up any loops with the '65 setup?
Q3) What model year is the cast-iron dual reservoir MC installed on the '65?
Q4) I agree that it looks sharp, but isn't the outer 'spring wrap' primarily/technically usually installed over brake lines for protection purposes - why have it up by the MC?
BarnieTrk
Thanks, Barnie.
A1) I made the loops by bending the tubing around a deep well 15/16" socket.
A2) For a number of years, I didn't put loops in the tubing. Often times, it was difficult to get the fittings to line up straight to the ports to get them started. The loops make it easier to have some flexibility to get the fittings started and to reduce the chances of work hardening the flares at the ends of the tubes due to vibration and road shock.
A3) That was 7 or 8 years ago when I put the MC on the '65 F100. My friend supplied all the parts. I just put them on and fabricated the lines but, I want to say the MC was for a '78 F150 (since the front discs installed on the '65 F100 were from a '78 F150).
A4) The Spring Wrap/Armor Guard is for the purposes of protecting the hard lines from rocks/road debris. It will also act as a heat sink (like fins on a valve cover) to help dissipate heat soak into the brake fluid from underhood temperatures plus, I think it just looks cool.
Thanks for the replies, Steve!
I like the looks of the Spring Wrap/Armor Guard as well!
Is it zinc or cadmium-plated or did you pant it silver?
Where do you find/buy it?
BarnieTrk
I'm not sure if it's a galvanized coating or what. Over time, it will turn to more of a gray color so, you could paint it before you put it on the tubing if you wanted.
I purchase it through Classic Tube in 3/16" OE steel. For more money, you can get it in stainless steel too.
I was just under the truck to look for the little block that distributes fluid between front and back on these trucks. Seemed to me a larger distribution block from 67 and up may not fit in where the original is due to size and access.
One, where is the block in a 67 and up truck? Two, if not possible where else could this block be mounted as it already has a bracket and two mounting bolts.
I was just under the truck to look for the little block that distributes fluid between front and back on these trucks. Seemed to me a larger distribution block from 67 and up may not fit in where the original is due to size and access.
One, where is the block in a 67 and up truck? Two, if not possible where else could this block be mounted as it already has a bracket and two mounting bolts.
The pressure differential valve on a '67-'72 F100-F350 is mounted inside the left frame rail, rearward of the steering gearbox.
I thought so and it is already tight with the little block in there. I am strongly considering getting at least the three brakes lines already made for the 67-72 years. That leaves me with only having to make the two lines out of the master rather than trying to synchronize all five to the exact same place.
the copper nickel bulk line is very easy to work with and flairs good even useing a 1/4 inch imperial bender, not going to buy a 3/16 bender the truck says it's not in the budget....