When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It was giving me one loud CLICK. I tried to start it 20 times. It was a lot of glowing and one loud click. Tried the relay jump. CLICK at the starter. Tapped the starter solenoid with a hammer and it turned over. It turned over a lot before firing which hi thought was off because of all the glowing. When it started I heard the starter drag.
Sounds like I need a starter. For some reason I recall there are two starters for these. Which one should I get?
There's actually 3 or 4 different starters for the IDI. They all work, but I'm trying to find the discussion we had on them recently. O Reilly's sells the open face design like the power stroke uses (Mitsubishi?). I used one when I put the 7.3 in my '85. I never had an IDI turn over so fast! And my batteries are getting old and tired too, but it spins like crazy.
I do not know if there is anything to the SMF vs DMF vs Auto vs Manual discussion. ADAIK they are all interchangeable, but maybe someone with specific data will chime in.
Stock is a planetary in line gear reduction. The sooper dooper starter is a multiple spur gear reduction and it starts like a direct injected engine with it. I got one for my buddy's truck off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FORD-TRUCK-6-9L-7-3L-DIESEL-STARTER-F150-F250-F350-1985-1994-HI-TORK-SND0027-/130682573081?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6d49d119 and mine already had one when I bought it.
I think the SMF/DMF issue is moot from researching ZF5 conversion. Same starter is used. You have to bend the tab on the end of the battery wire to engage the post on this starter and it's a little tighter on one bolt, but still pretty easy. Vastly better starter.
Don't be surprised at the "made in china" bling, but other than bending the tab on the battery wire, it's pretty straightforward. Bolts right in, works *REALLY* well. I think I used a wobble extension for the back bolt, but a universal would work too. Basically about the same as reinstalling a stocker. That is the same vendor I got my buddy's from. Really can't say much about the vendor though except that it showed up quick and worked.
I'm still for the O Reillys one, it spins much faster than the standard gear reduction starter. But you can lead a horse to water....
Anyway, no, they're not that hard to change out, just use a long extension on the top bolt, one long enough to clear the entire starter motor and you'll be fine.
DB also makes a higher 4.0kw starter that they say will only work for 1994 non-turbo model years but will work on other trucks as well. Many have been very happy with that one also and it's only about $50 more.
I got the 2.5kw ones and could hardly believe how strong and fast. But if I had known there was an even *bigger* one, I would have bought it.
Chevy-eater- I think we are all basically talking about the same starter, and are all drinking!
Edit: I found your mistubishi link in another thread. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...&keyword=19418 Clearly not the same starter. I don't know which one is better, but the ones I linked are pretty unbelievable. It's like flipping a light switch, the engine is "on".
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.