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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1988 F350 4x4 Build Thread

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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 06:13 AM
  #31  
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What Bob said. I bought one when I needed it, it was only 15 bucks or so
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 09:10 AM
  #32  
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From: central illinois
Great build so far. Wish you the best of luck on it. At times these old trucks like to give you some heck but in the end you can't beat them. Sure they have character ( rust & dents), but they seem to always get the job done. Sometimes you just need to give them some TLC. Heck the young ones are fast approaching 17 years of abuse!! There are many of the old 87-91 still getting beat on around me.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Hutch17
What Bob said. I bought one when I needed it, it was only 15 bucks or so
Mine is in my junkyard tool bag. I missed a lot of good leather wrapped wheels because I didn't have it with me.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #34  
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Got some oxidation remover and it is finally red again! Me and a couple of friends got it washed and dried in my driveway, then we started putting it on with wet cloths, wiped it off, and then washed and dried it again. I can't believe the difference!

Here is a pic of just the bed done to show the difference side by side.



Here he is all done!



Let me know what you guys think! Ideas and tips are also appreciated!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 04:29 AM
  #35  
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Wow, that made a big difference. I figured you'd have to use a buffer to get it looking that good. Nice work!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 11:18 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Bob Gervais
Wow, that made a big difference. I figured you'd have to use a buffer to get it looking that good. Nice work!
Ya, me to. Couldn't find any clean cloths so we used cotton tee shirts. Just water, wet cloths, Turtle Wax "Color Back", and an afternoon. Thanks for the advice and compliments!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 12:47 PM
  #37  
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Lookin a lot better!

If you have (or have access to) a buffer, use it. With the right compound it'll make it look even better.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Truck Guy99
Me and a few buddies are already talking about a 1st gen 12 valve Cummins swap
Might I suggest you take a trip over to the IDI section here and check it out. IMO it's a much better option for your truck then a cummins. Certainly MUCH more bang for the buck. Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Originally Posted by Truck Guy99
What is the biggest tire I can fit under this thing without modifying anything?
I have 2 VERY similar trucks, CCLB, F350, C6, an 87 w/460 and 89 with 7.3. On both I put 37x12.5s. With that truck all it takes is taking about 2" off the lower rear corner of the fender and about an inch off the lower corner of the bumper and they fit perfect. Plus with the C6 and 4.10 axles they do A LOT for your gearing.

Originally Posted by Truck Guy99
My steering column is absolutely trashed. The key won't come out. That's no big deal. The steering column (not the wheel) is very wiggly. You can move it around nearly 6 inches. You have to hold it up and to the right to make the engine start. The blinker works fine on the left one, but the right one you have to hold it to make it blink.

I think I will just replace it with a junk yard one. Will one off a brick nose 2wd fit my 4wd truck? Also, will one off a brick nose diesel work? I need this info ASAP!
Yes any column from a truck with a C6 will bolt right in. The only variation is tilt, and shifters.

Originally Posted by Truck Guy99
What else do I need to do? I need to tear into my steering column but need to remove the wheel as well for other reasons.
As mentioned earlier you need a steering wheel puller. It's really just a bar that you bolt to the threaded holes in the steering wheel and has a center bolt that pushes on the center shaft. Without one the steering wheel is near impossible to remove.

FWIW though you don't need to remove it to remove the entire column.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 04:12 PM
  #39  
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with 12v's floating around nowadays for 1500 bucks and capable of unlocking copious amounts of power for free, how is an idi the best bang for the buck?

not saying an idi isn't a good idea, but unless its free or very cheap i wouldn't suggest it over a cummins. 12v's are cheap, already turbo'd, DI>IDI, and have free power options. all this, and I like IDI's....JMO
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
with 12v's floating around nowadays for 1500 bucks and capable of unlocking copious amounts of power for free, how is an idi the best bang for the buck?

not saying an idi isn't a good idea, but unless its free or very cheap i wouldn't suggest it over a cummins. 12v's are cheap, already turbo'd, DI>IDI, and have free power options. all this, and I like IDI's....JMO
Maybe I shouldn't have said "MUCH" more bang for the buck but done right it can be an all but free conversion. The key to doing it almost free is to find the right donor truck for cheap. Take all you need and sell the rest.

I'll admit I don't know much about "unlocking copious amounts of power for free" from a 12V. But I know that IDIs are better then often given credit, common, and cheap. That and a 12V conversion isn't the easiest thing to do, and you need a lot more then just the engine. But yes to unlock a lot of power from and IDI you have to add turbo, unless your donor is an IDIT.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #41  
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From: PineyWoods
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Originally Posted by Truck Guy99
I've actually been considering the same thing but it looks like somebody else had the same idea for the side walls of the bed. They are grey and very gritty like concrete almost, but there isn't any on the floor of the bed. Kind of weird.

Here you can see the difference between the bed side and the floor
You sure it's not gunnite? ha!

Maybe your truck was a swimming pool in a previous life
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 10:32 PM
  #42  
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From: PineyWoods
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Originally Posted by Bob Gervais

For the steering wheel, you'll need a puller. You should be able to rent one at your local parts store, or they're actually pretty cheap to buy.
aye - take it slow and easy with that, too.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 10:40 PM
  #43  
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From: PineyWoods
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Originally Posted by Truck Guy99
Got some oxidation remover and it is finally red again! Me and a couple of friends got it washed and dried in my driveway, then we started putting it on with wet cloths, wiped it off, and then washed and dried it again. I can't believe the difference!

--- pics cut out ---

Let me know what you guys think! Ideas and tips are also appreciated!
wow Tye, that is fantastic. I am impressed.
Wouldn't have believed it unless I saw the pictures.

On your tires, are you intending to re-use your stock wheels?
The width there may come into play as a limiting factor on what you end up being able to do ...
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 11:37 PM
  #44  
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That paint looks a million times better now, great job. The cummins would be a cool swap but you have to worry about trans and mount/brackets etc. plenty of write ups in the forum though. Keep the posts coming btw
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 12:42 AM
  #45  
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From: Elk City, OK
Update!

Thanks for the advice gentlemen! The diesel swap is a long way off. Right now I will just enjoy my big block and fix it up.


Got some progress done on the truck. I got a free bedliner on craigslist



I also painted my wheels. Here they are in prep.



After the first one dried.



Before and after comparison.



Here is one mounted after I painted the hub.



I was gonna take an overall pic of the truck with the wheels painted but it was dark by the time I got a set of them on after drying. Will post a pic of the whole truck tomorrow. Repainting the toolbox and finishing the last wheel is tomorrow's project.
 
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