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'86 2.9L 5spd Doesn't Run Consistantly

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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:23 AM
  #1  
rubberducky700's Avatar
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'86 2.9L 5spd Doesn't Run Consistantly

Hey everyone,

I don't want to spend to much time on here as its getting late but here is what I have.

I was basicly given a 86 ranger with a 2.9l sixer EFI and 5 speed manual. The truck started and ran like absolute crap, missing and sputterin. Keep in mind its been 3 years or better since the truck has been drove. but ran bad then also.

I put a new battery in, changed spark plugs with new autolites Gaped at .042, put 5 new gallons of 87 in with a bottle of HEET. Got the wrong fuel filter so I will pickup the right one tomorrow. After the new fuel, plugs, and heet, it fired right off and ran pretty good only with a minor sputter every so often. But once it gets warm or you touch the gas pedal is when it starts running like crap again. not sure if temp gauge is shot, but I have heard rumors in the past about this causing problems? TRUE?

From your experiences what do you think it might be or should look at. 3 years ago I did try a new coil and TFI but neither helped. The fuel pressure regulator seams to be working but I did not have a guage at the time to check what the pressure was. If memory serves me right it should be about 35psi or so.(correct me if I am wrong)

Just though I would try to pick you brains as I have little time other than early mornings or late evenings and would like to get this guy going if I can to avoid driving my Lincoln in the nasty Nebraska winter of March. I am trying to avoid taking it to a shop as I am short on cash and its only gonna cost me scrap price (+ parts) to get it running. Let me know if there is anything you would recommend.

Thanks and let me know if you have any questions.

Oh ya, I am getting new battery cables tomorrow as the originals were junk, not the answer I am sure but might give a better electric shock to it. Would there be any problems if the alternator might be shot? does not read bad on the gauge and the light is not coming on (it does work) but just curious.

Thanks,

-Sean
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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87 XLT's Avatar
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The 3 tests that i do anytime ny 87 2.9 is not running right are:

1 Hook up my scanner & check for any trouble codes.

2. Test fuel pressure

3. Put my vacuum gauge on it.

Take a 1/2 hour & do these 3 simple tests & post your results.

BTW your 86-& my 87- are not equipped with a check engine light so the only way to know if theres any trouble codes is to check.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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I am going to install a new thermostat this afternoon and possibly even the Engine Temp sender. I will put a scanner on it also to test and see what the codes might be.

Thanks Ill post later

-Sean
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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Changed Thermostat, both water temp sensors, fuel filter, battery cables, and all new anti-freeze. Truck fired off first switch of the key and ran at high idle for 4-5 minutes before coming down. idled smooth as could be for the next 15 minutes.

no more got in the cab to go a block and half to the gas station and it died, unwilling to restart. Sounded like it had spark but I can see and get a better idea today. I would say temp senders were definitely an issue.

Sean
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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Thanks for the update, sounds like it's running better than it was. Now if it would just stay running.

Pull the intake tube off & shoot some starter fluid in it. Does it start -or try to-now?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 08:00 AM
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Coil wire his shot as well as a few of the others. Bought new autolite 8mm last night and will get them put on this morning. Thanks for your help. the only think left is the plastic piece at the bottom of the shifter. It does shift gear to gear but there is a lot of numb slop in it. the owner said its happend once before but can remember what the part was called. Any suggestions of the name, or best way to fix?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 11:44 AM
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From: SoCal
About 10 years ago I was accelerating hard in 3rd gear when I felt a hard jolt & heard a LOUD bang.

The jolt & bang was caused by the plastic ball on the shift lever coming loose, dropping down into the trans & getting chewed up in the gears.

This was on my 87 Ranger & the cure was to spend-ouch- 70 bucks at the dealer for a new shift lever.

As i recall the ball is about 1/2 inch in diameter. If the shifter is no longer available see if a machine shop can form a new ball at the end of an approx 3 inch long piece of 1/2 inch bar. Weld your new gadget to the old shift lever.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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From: Reno nv
Actually it is 18 mm with an 11 mm through hole

(3/8 works for the through hole)

I made a new one from an old black VW heater control ****, I believe pre '70 drilled the 3/8 amd placed it on the drill press and used 80 grit until about 18 1/2 mm then used 220 until 18 MM (or it fit the pocket)

those are solid except for the small square hole to attach with. 10 K miles and still works. if you have access to a lathe, make 'em out of nylon
 
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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Thanks piotrsko, i like your idea a whole lot better than spending 70 bucks at the dealer.

One question though, how are you attaching the ball to the lever?
 
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