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you could swap a wire. if the code came up on the other cylinder. then it is the wire. you can pull the plug and inspect it. you can have the coil tested at an auto parts store.
if it was my truck i would figure out what maintenance needs to be done and do it. when have the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, pcv, etc been changed? any symptoms of a blown head. milky oil? i would add fuel injector cleaner to the tank.
misfires can be caused by spark, fuel injectors, fuel pressure. by a lot of things.
I went to auto zone to have the code checked so I cant switch the wires and recheck the code at home. Just wondering if there is any way I can check for a spark any other way. Like with a multi meter or something.
Also, when the problem is found and repaired will I need the engine light reset or will it go out on its own?
you can check the resistance of the wire. you can pull the wire and put a tester in or an old sparkplug and check for spark that way. you will have to erase the code after. some people say you can do it by disconnecting the neg bat cable for 10 minutes. other people will say this doesn't work.
Pull and check the resistance of all the wires. If the one in question has greater resistance that will confirm your theory. You could also just go back the store, have them test. Then swap a plug and wire combo between 2 cylinders, have them clear codes and rescan.
if it was my truck i would figure out what maintenance needs to be done and do it. when have the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, pcv, etc been changed? any symptoms of a blown head. milky oil? i would add fuel injector cleaner to the tank.
misfires can be caused by spark, fuel injectors, fuel pressure. by a lot of things.
if you don't have the cash that is one thing but if the wires and plugs are old you would be better replacing them all and the fuel filter
ok, I just replaced the wires and the plugs. I unhooked the battery while I was working. Fired it up and the truck is still running bad. The engine light is now off but I am sure it will come back on once I drive it for a bit since it is still running bad
Just what i feared, replacing parts that didnt solve the problem. At least it prob needed the plugs and wires any way.
Now what is the next step? Is there any way to test if the coil is working?
Also noticed a strange smell. Almost sulfer like. Does that give any clues to what might be the problem.
One more question, which cylinder is #1 that is supposedely misfireing. To my knowlege its the front cylinder on the passanger side. Is that right?
you can check the resistance of the wire. you can pull the wire and put a tester in or an old sparkplug and check for spark that way. you will have to erase the code after. some people say you can do it by disconnecting the neg bat cable for 10 minutes. other people will say this doesn't work.
do I just disconnect the #1 plug wire from the plug, and put an old plug in there and start the truck? Which cylinder is #1, I think its the front one on the passanger side, right? <!-- / message -->
Passeger side cloest to front is #1. you can use an old sparkplug. I like to pull the fuel pump fuse or relay.not everone pulls the FP relay. Pull the wire off the #1 plug insert old plug crank engine. See if you have spark. You also can check the fuel injector on that cylinder with a stethascope or a srewdriver to your ear. You should hear a ticking
As I think about this. I suggest you get a sparkplug tester $10. It will show you exactly how to do it and it will tell you how good of a spark you have. Try the listening to the fuel injector also
Ok, I took the #1 plug wire off and put an old plug in it and turned the truck over and I got no spark out of it. I tryed the same thing with the #3 plug wire and it sparked. so does that mean the coil pack is bad?
Could be the Coilpack or maybe the ignition module? You can test the coil with a multimeter. Do you have a haynes manual. Chapter 5 section 6 and 7. Disconnect the electrical conector at the coilpack probe the middle and side conector for ressistance shoul be less than 5 ohms. Make sure the truck is off no power to the CP. then probe the #1 and #5 terminals of the CP you want between 13-15 ohms
When I PUT THE MULTI METER probes in the 2 front sockets of the coil pack I get 12.1 ohm when the meter is set to 40k ohm. Between the two middle sockets I get 12.22 ohm. the 2 back sockets i get 12.39 ohm.
When I test from the cylinder #1 socket to the flat connector on the side of the coil pack I get 13.5 on each pin on the flat connector
cylinder #5 socket to each pin on the flat connector i get 24.5 ohm
The res ot the cylinder sockets to the flat connector pins i get O.L
Keep the mm set at 40k probe the #1 socket and the #5 socket(drivers side middle) the mm should say between 13-15. If that is ok. Test the connection on the side of the coil probe the small connectors between the middle and a side terminal. You want less than 5 ohms put you mm to the setting closest to more than 5. The other test you are looking for 13,000-15,000 ohms
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