tested my temp sensors pleas analyze my results

gauge temp sensor= wire koeo 8.9V, cold 21 ohms, hot .14 ohms
pcm temp sensor= wire koeo 4.7 V, cold 105 ohms hot 3.1 ohms

please tell me if these are within spec. I cant find the info in my haynes manual and i did search and can't locate it.

 

oops i was reading the mm wrong. the correct readings are temp gauge sender=21,000 ohms(cold), 140 ohms(hot)

engine coolant temp sensor(pcm)=105,000 ohms(cold), 3,100 ohms (hot)

are these within spec

 

Some relevant info HERE.

 

thanks rockledge. according to that website my ect should be about 67,000 ohms at 30 degrees F. mine was at about 105,000 at 30 degrees F. is that enough to throw the truck off?

 

It sounds a little out of whack, but there are factors that can cause faulty readings.

How did you ascertain the coolant temperature when you were testing for OHMS?

 

I replaced it and the new one was 83,000 ohms this morning about 25 degrees F
when you say ascertain coolant temperature, do you mean the one for the gauge. I tested that gauge sensor it was 21,000 ohms this morning 25 degrees F

 

Rockledge I am trying to eliminate a miss/hesitation in the engine. Today i disconnected the wire that connects to the iacv. the truck barely changed how it ran. I drove it 4 miles and it was just a little off. nothing really bad.

 

First thing I consider when I hear hesitation is the MAF. It is supposed to *KNOW* how much air is coming into the engine, and provide a signal to the ECM to bump up the injector flow for a bit of time, much like the accelerator pump in carburetors. The air moves faster than the liquid inside a carb, so when you open the throttle, the air takes off, but the gasoline can't make it through the passages as fast because it is liquid, and thus much more dense, and thus much more inertia to overcome. It will get up to speed, but not right now, so the accelerator pump squirts a jet of gas into the carb to compensate. Ditto for the injectors, though they are much more responsive because the fuel is under pressure, rather than depending upon venturi vacuum to draw the fuel into the intake.
So, anyway, I look at the MAF first. I believe you can remove the connector from the MAF, and it will run using 'default' limp-home mode. It will throw a code, too, and likely turn on the MIL/SES light. But, you will know if it is contributing to your stumble... or not.
Rockledge: I think he's leaving the truck outside and making the assumption that the coolant would be close to air temperature after sitting overnight. That's about what I'd do. The resistance at 25F is a little high at 83000 ohms. Leave the old one outside overnight - on the intake manifold or wherever so it is exposed to the same 'coldness' as the one in the engine, and compare readings.
tom

 

When i unpluged the maf the truck ran for about 1/2 mile and then died. When I unplugged the iacv it did not change much and never died. That's a good idea about leaving the old ect out and testing them both. I will try and remember to do that tonight. I was assuming that after the truck sat all night that the coolant was the same temp as the outside air. over the weekend I changed the ect and I cleaned the iacv again. This time a sprayed the inside of it with a little silicone. I don't think that is recommended but the rubber looked a little worn so I figure I might be replacing it anyways. The end result of changing the ect cleaning the iacv and rebooting the pcm is that the truck is much better, not perfect but much better after it is warmed up, however, before it is completely warmed up there is still a hesitation/ missing effect. I will keep you posted thanks for the help

 

Be careful silicone will kill O2 sensors.

 

Truck should not die with the MAF disconnected. It should have run, stored a temporary code, and turned on the warning light. Something is amiss if it would not run. IMO.
tom

 

I agree. When my maf died on me the truck would start and idle, but when I tried to rev the engine it would stumble and die. Just for kicks, not knowing what was wrong I unplugged the Maf. To my surpise truck ran fine, but as you said on the way to the parts store the check engine light came on. Put new Maf in and has been fine since.

On the stumble/ hesitation problem, I would have the injectors checked. Last winter I had a intermitant miss and stumble, turned out to be the #1 injector was not firing all the time. I had NO Check engine light either.. I have a 99 2.5L four.