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Question: Updated Master Cyl for 47 1-ton

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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 07:41 AM
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Question: Updated Master Cyl for 47 1-ton

My 47 Ford Stake bed(1-ton)has the original brake system. I've previewed several previous posts on this site thus not sure if the following will work based on 1-ton versus 1/2 ton. I'd like to install a dual master cylinder for safety sake. I'm also considering a brake booster to make it easier to require less effort to apply brakes. While at the Moultrie, GA swap meet I was advised if I can find the right bracket I can use the master cylinder as well as the booster from a Mustang II which provides a good fit; allowing to check and add fluid, etc. without much difficulty. Can anyone provide any suggestions/alternatives for this upgrade to include aftermarket components to make the job easier to include which is best; firewall mounted system or under floor system . Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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Post Replacement Master Cylinder(s)

Look at Wilwood products. Just installed 3-piece system (incl. clutch) in my 47 1/2T. You may want the two master brake system which has a mechanical proportioning system (front to rear). Probably want the 1" cylinders. Because they are 6 to 1 pedal ratio you don't really need any vacuum assist. Summit and JEGS carry them. www.wilwood.com
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:44 AM
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I had a place near me here, called ABS, make up a bracket, booster, and dual master cylinder for my '46 1/2 ton. I used a remote fill master cylinder to get around having to cut up my floor to fill the cylinder. Look them up as ABS in Orange, Ca 714-771-6549. Great guys to deal with, and very reasonably priced.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 01:26 PM
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From: Gibsonia, PA
Chief......

What did you end up doing for your brakes?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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It's hard to believe it's been over a year and I haven't upgraded yet. Been concentrating on completing restoration on my 67 Galaxie thus driving stake bed as is. However, I'm pretty much done with Galaxie thus back to figuring out how to upgrade the 1-ton's brake system. As stated earlier, I'd like to convert from a single to dual port master cylinder and booster that still has the original complete brake setup. Naturally, I'd like to have power brakes but will settle on attaching a dual master cylinder only if that's my only option. Bob Drake sells a conversion adapter (item EC-415)that supposedly attaches to the 3-bolt original attachment allowing use of a Mustang or Corvette dual master cylinder. Anyone know if this works on a 1-ton? Any other recommendations and or solutions will still be greatly appreciated! I'm currently reading previous posts and getting great info! Hopefully, one of you has already done this. Ha!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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1940 brake solution

hi, I have a 1940 one ton, used an under floor system due to existing pedal configuration to keep it looking stock.

got a comparable pwr system from a 1967 cougar, pn # 50-3202, about $110 at autozone.

I needed to make up a special adapter bracket of steel plate and 2 welded (est 3")steel pipe standoff adapters with long bolts, but it worked. Also needed a short, about 2" steel flat stock 1.5 in wide, 1/8 in thick, bar to add length to the pushrod.

then i used the proportioning valve and 2 check valves for the finish which you need if it is mounted under floor. there is still about 4-6 in of clearance underneath to add fluid, or you can cut a flapper access hole in floor.

for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to post a pic on this site, so here's a link.
these pics are at my site: Picasa Web Albums - mprsox - Redhed Fred

look for the pics starting with caption - start of 2010 work

hope this helps, let me know if you can see the pics,

best,
mpr
 
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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Thanks for a great idea. Looks like it works well. Unfortunately, I don't have the skills required to make this item but might have a friend or two, that does. Ha! More to follow. Roy
 
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:33 AM
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Well, finally installed dual master cylinder and booster into the 47 stake-bed. I used one made to replace the original under the floor. (kit came from MBM brakes out of Asheville NC and was designed for a 1/2 ton) Had to modify the 3-bolt pattern somewhat by elongating one of the holes plus cut and weld original push rod to the new push rod. Also, installed four 10 lb residual valves as well as a metering block to prevent front end from diving (couldn't really tell any difference with or without block but installed since I had it.) The pedal pressure is much lighter now and is much like any vehicle with power brakes and it slows the truck very well. (I am still using the stock drum brakes.) The big problem I am having is when I push the brake pedal as hard as possible to "lock up the brakes" for a panic stop it doesn't happen. The truck will slow down fast like I have an anti-lock system but just won't lock em up. Still trying to figure out why. The wheel cylinders, pads, drums, etc. are good. Wondering if there can be a problem with the size of wheel cylinders as related to size of M/C, etc.? As usual, any ideas will be appreciated.
 
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