Remote brake booster question
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,104
Likes: 138
From: Orcas Island Wa.
Remote brake booster question
My 2 ton has a remote mounted midland vaccuum brake booster. I am completing a total brake job this week, but didn't address the booster. Not really wanting to send the booster out for a rebuild and spend the 350.00 just now. Ok, two questions..... I was thinking of plugging off the two lines from the master, bypassing the booster for the time being. Will the brakes perfom in a normal manner as though it didn't have a booster? What I mean, is when our modern vehicles with power brakes stop running, it feels like almost no brakes (tons of pedal effort required). Will this be the case or will it just feel like my other old trucks that never had a booster? Next question, if I keep it hooked into the system and the cylinder inside of the mechanism leaks, will it do something bad like suck brake fluid into the intake, or suck the fluid dry from the resevoir? The master cyl was in good shape in the bore, but the rubber was really soft and swollen like someone had put motor oil or something in there. Made me nervous about the internal cyl in the booster. I hope this makes sense. It's a midland diaphram booster.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
I think you'll find it feels like an old truck with out power brakes. An active member here with a 1950 F5 is running it with the vacuum to the booster booster disconnected and he says the truck stops just fine. Needs more effort. Power brake boosters and power steering were added so women could drive.
Can't answer the second question.
Can't answer the second question.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
That's me that Ray was talking about. I fought a brake issue for almost two years with the brakes locking up. After installing a new M/C, new wheel cylinders, all new lines and shoes, I finally disconnected the line going to the booster and rerouted it to the return port, the brakes work fine. The truth is, the effort needed to operate the brakes appears to be nearly the same as it was with the booster. I found a replacement booster that is supposed to work at http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...026_0227133401 for $180 exchange ($50 core), but without a dual bowl M/C and the fact that I don't haul anything with the truck I decided to save the money.
Parts Nerd Extraordinaire
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 1,785
From: Western NY
I replaced the booster on my F6 a few years ago - got a new one from NAPA for about $250 or so; NBB 518026 - is a Midland C462C/H and is supposidly the same as a C447 with the exception of the frame mounting hardware and the vaccume line is not threaded like the C447.
Mounting to the frame is nothing difficult to over come - it's just a matter of drilling another 1/2 inch hole in your existing mount plate. Easy peasy with my electric drill and a sub $20 drill bit.
You can sift through my experience here and I am more than willing to help you out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...job-parts.html
Mounting to the frame is nothing difficult to over come - it's just a matter of drilling another 1/2 inch hole in your existing mount plate. Easy peasy with my electric drill and a sub $20 drill bit.
You can sift through my experience here and I am more than willing to help you out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...job-parts.html
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
I replaced the booster on my F6 a few years ago - got a new one from NAPA for about $250 or so; NBB 518026 - is a Midland C462C/H and is supposidly the same as a C447 with the exception of the frame mounting hardware and the vaccume line is not threaded like the C447.
Mounting to the frame is nothing difficult to over come - it's just a matter of drilling another 1/2 inch hole in your existing mount plate. Easy peasy with my electric drill and a sub $20 drill bit.
You can sift through my experience here and I am more than willing to help you out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...job-parts.html
Mounting to the frame is nothing difficult to over come - it's just a matter of drilling another 1/2 inch hole in your existing mount plate. Easy peasy with my electric drill and a sub $20 drill bit.
You can sift through my experience here and I am more than willing to help you out
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...job-parts.html
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
The brakes will indeed work normally without the booster. However, if you plan on hauling logs like your avatar pic, I would seriously consider fixing it.
Or invest in more underwear.
My '53 F600 has no booster anymore and can cause some "pucker" moments when loaded. Both feet on the pedal won't stop it...
Or invest in more underwear.
My '53 F600 has no booster anymore and can cause some "pucker" moments when loaded. Both feet on the pedal won't stop it...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,104
Likes: 138
From: Orcas Island Wa.
Wow! Exactly what I was hoping for. While I was waiting for replies I spent the afternoon working on my 8ba and it's all painted now and accessories going back on. This gave me some time to figure out what's next on my brakes. The fronts and master are done and adjusted and front wheels back on. I need to do the rears this week after work. I'm thinking I can sort of drive this thing in a couple of weeks. Looks like I will talk to napa on monday. Just happens they are the only auto parts store we have on the island. I guess I'll go the booster route. From what I remember without going back out in the cold, the vaccuum like isn't threaded, so maybe it's already been replaced with the newer style. The truck is a '47, but I posted here for the broader spectrum of readers and the fact that the booster isn't really model year specific. Thanks so much for all the replies!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 9
From: Western Washington
I run my f250 without the booster and it stops fine, even with the massive front disks. I can lock up all four no problem, it just take a bit of muscle! If the caliper pins are lubed and free it makes a huge difference.
Keeps me in shape too!
Sam
Keeps me in shape too!
Sam
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Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,104
Likes: 138
From: Orcas Island Wa.
Actually I pulled mine apart and the hydraulic cyl looked so good I was tempted to just reinstall. But.... then i think about the 300 dollar rebuild and the liability of the wreck and I think the money is well spent. So off it goes to portland next week for a rebuild. Best part about a rebuild is it,s the same part and all the bolts line up etc etc.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 538
Likes: 1
From: Australia
Hi, I never had one, but I believe I heard that the 441 Victors were a bit of a b****r to start with a kickback like a mule.
The only single I had was a 350 Velocette, mate had a 500, both older at the time and not too bad to start, with a certain technique, but another acquaintance had a 500 Velocette Thruxton. Now they were a trial to start.
The only single I had was a 350 Velocette, mate had a 500, both older at the time and not too bad to start, with a certain technique, but another acquaintance had a 500 Velocette Thruxton. Now they were a trial to start.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,104
Likes: 138
From: Orcas Island Wa.
Mine starts quite easily. I know how to tune it and there is a very specific method involving the valve lifter (compression release) for good starts. Just jumping on and kicking doesn't work. It spends winters in an unheated room just off the living room. There are French doors leadint into there so I can look in and see it whenever I want! Now I've gone and hijacked my own thread. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,409
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From: Clitherall, MN.
This is torture. HeeHee. I used to park my 650 Bonneville in the livingroom so I could polish the cases and such whenever the urge came.It had to be the shiniest bike in town. Love the BSA, a true classic look.