Remote Start 98 Expedition - tach wire
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Remote Start 98 Expedition - tach wire
If you have a DMM, there's not much to it. The immobilizer bypass module will be hooked up to the add on remote start unit with one wire and the bypass module will also connect to a couple wires that come out of the ignition tumbler on your Navigator.
All you're gunna really need to hook up is 12v constant, ignition, starter, accessory, ground, brake wire, tach, door lock, and maybe a hod pin trigger if the unit comes with one.
The tach is easy to get on cylinder #8, on the coil or on the fuel injector wire.
You don't really have to hook up the accessory, but if you want your heater or A/C to be running when you get inside, you need to hook that wire up.
All you're gunna really need to hook up is 12v constant, ignition, starter, accessory, ground, brake wire, tach, door lock, and maybe a hod pin trigger if the unit comes with one.
The tach is easy to get on cylinder #8, on the coil or on the fuel injector wire.
You don't really have to hook up the accessory, but if you want your heater or A/C to be running when you get inside, you need to hook that wire up.
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FYI, when I installed my remote starter, the instructions told me to tap into one of the COP wires for the tach signal. Well that didn't work out so well, the remote starter kept turning the engine off thinking it didn't start. Doing it that way or even using an injector wire, you're only getting 1/8 the pulses as if you were on a true tach wire. I tapped into the wire that went from the computer under the hood to the tach on the dash and it worked like a charm.
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Anybody have any tips on how to get the transponder loop around the ignition switch? I can seem to get the top half of the steering column off because of the black plastic piece of the ignition switch itself.
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Insert the key into the ignition. There's a button on the bottom of the ignition lock. With a small punch (or something similar) press up on this button will rotating the key. When the button presses in pull the lock straight out of the ignition switch housing. Once that's done you'll be able to remove the top half of the column.
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Pretty much, any injector wire that is not common will work. I like to use the one on cylinder 8 because its close to the firewall and easy to hide and make look factory.
If your RS unit has voltage sense, you could also go that route. As soon as the voltage raises from 12v to 13.8 or so, the RS unit will know that the engine is on. Some RS units don't like that and in cold weather, some RS act funny.
The best way is always to tag a tach signal via a injector wire or a COP wire that isn't common.
If your RS unit has voltage sense, you could also go that route. As soon as the voltage raises from 12v to 13.8 or so, the RS unit will know that the engine is on. Some RS units don't like that and in cold weather, some RS act funny.
The best way is always to tag a tach signal via a injector wire or a COP wire that isn't common.
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