I have learned quite a bit about the '60 Ford trucks while in the process of my frame off. I still have a lot to learn. And thanks to guys I have a place to gain this knowledge.
I'm thinking this winter I will rebuild my motor (352). It runs like champ. But with 120000 + on it ? Has noisy lifters. What am I looking at as far as rebuilding this guy with that many or that little miles on it. Should I look at having heads rebuilt ? Crank rebuild/replaced ? New cam ? Cylinders bored ? Would like to keep it as stock as possible. Two barrel carb. Maybe a nice dual exhaust.
But for now. I need to replace rear main seal. Will I need to drop the crank ?
Any tips on what it will take to make this easier would be appreciated. Besides letting someone else do it.
Thanks

 

Rus, The FE can go past 120,000 miles but because oils and oil change schedules were not what they are today, a rebuild is not a bad choice.

After having the experience of doing so, I would recommend that you get a 75 or 76 360 and build it back as a 390. They look identical on the outside and you will like the engine much better. The 360 will have better heads and the block is already a 390 bore.

Rear main seals usually aren't a problem on FE engines, and leaky intake manifolds are more often for the oil leak running down the back of the engine.

John

 

Jo why is the 360 a better choice than 352 I just finished building one on a total frame off but havent run it yet but am new to ford v8 so am curious did the 352 have problems or am I about to find out thanks Paddy O !!

 

The 360s and 390s were more powerful, and they also seem to be easier to find parts for. (thats just my experiance, I have a 360 and a 352). One other thing though, is that the valve seats in your 352 arent designed to run on unleaded gas, whereas the 75 and 76 FE motors (well, the heads for them) are designed to run on unleaded gas. But with your 352, as long as you rebuilt it right, you shouldnt have problems with it.
Also to rusbukt about replacing your rear main seal. Do you have a chilton manuel? I know some people dont like them, but it does tell you how to replace it without pulling out your motor or anything. Replacing that is a bear, but it can be done. When I replaced mine I already had the motor out, so as how to replace it with the motor in the truck, I cant help you there.

 

Also rusbukt, about what to do to your motor when you rebuild it. Honestly, you cant tell what you need to do until you take it apart and look at it. It entirely depends on what you want. Be careful though, you can spend a whooooole lot of money realllly quickly rebuilding these things.

 

No problems with the 352, I run one in my blue truck. The FE, a 1950s technology was dropped first in the cars but continued use in the trucks until 76. The 352 was replaced with the 360 as the standard FE engine. It was only installed in trucks. The 360 is a 390 block with 352 crank and piston set. It is called a detuned 390 and was an early entry in the smog era. The 360 has some of the better breathing heads and has hardened valve areas.

The 390 also has 40 more cubic inches of raw butt kicking power. IMHO

John

 

The major difference between a 352 and the 360/390 is the bored. 4.00 for the 352 and 4.050 for the 390. If you have a 352 it can be bored over to make it a 390 but it is highly recommended to sonic check the cylinder walls to make sure they are thick enough to handle the overbore.

I just rebuilt a 390 this past weekend. There are a few things that you may want to consider doing if you decide to rebuild. I had 2 390's to pull parts from FYI. One had the piston pin retaining rings pop out on two of the cylinders and scored the heck out of the walls. So consider using spiral locks instead of the standard snap rings. Also look at the back of the block where the oil galley plugs are located and tap them for plugs to reduce the chance of the plugs popping out later down the road or leaking. I lucked out with a transmission spacer plate (brain farting this morning so I can't remember the correct name) with the holes already in it to clear the plugs that stick out a little bit.

Locally, here in San Diego, FE parts are hard to find that are usable. Out of the 4 heads I had 1 was cracked, running from the intake valve seat to the spark plug hole. The 2 that passed the crack checks needed 8 intake seats, 4 exhuast seats, 16 guides, 16 valves, and the springs replaced. I still have one spare head that needs to be inspected and a total rework on it. The valve guides are totally shot on it when I tore it down for cleaning. The FE truck block had a double ridge from the top compression ring loosing tension and needed to be bored .030. The crank was also turned .010/.010. All in all I spent $1990 to have everything machined and rebuilt with new parts. I'll post pictures later this week in my gallery if someone is interested.

 

Thanks to all for all the info. I like the idea of the 360 heads/390 block swap. That way I can keep the truck running all winter. Nothin worse than a Slick sittin idle!
Will I be able to bolt up to existing tranny ?
As my wife would say. Goin shoppin !
( can we use that W word here ? )


Genie in a bottle granted me one wish.
I said I wanted to be loved by all woman.
He turned me into a VISA.

 

It should bolt up, they're all FE's. Have fun with your new project!!!
Garrett

 

If you decide to toss out the 352, let me know...I sold one of my trucks last yr, the guys doing a motor upgrade...and I missed out on getting ahold of it for all the nice lil things I coulda used...like my new clutch kit I put on it...but thats a sore subject...Im looking for original parts...carb, fuel pump and water pump...again...IF you decide to swap it out.
As for what others are saying about the upgrading to the larger FE...I agree..if I were doing a driver or work truck for myself I would go that route...but my 65 is a long term project and Im a purist as far as it goes.



Let me know when ya can, CS65