Front Hub Wrench
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
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Front Hub Wrench
I decided to re-pack my '95 Bronco front wheel bearings, but I've hit a problem finding a wrench to remove the hub assy. I bought this beast in Jan., and it has automatic hubs which are working well. The hub caps have 3 Torx screws and have 4x4 automatic inscribed on them but have nothing that indicates Ford. So, I don't know if they're original or not. One of them is scarred pretty badly from someone using channel-lock pliers on it. The other one is clean.
The problem is the size of the hub body. It is a round 6-prong type body and appears to be 2 7/8" in diameter. None of the parts houses have anything that large.
Anybody got any suggestions?
The problem is the size of the hub body. It is a round 6-prong type body and appears to be 2 7/8" in diameter. None of the parts houses have anything that large.
Anybody got any suggestions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
First thing I would do is swap the automatic hubs out for manuals if you expect the 4x4 system to work reliably.
Second, I'm not sure I understand your question. You need a six-prong tool to remove the hub?
Or are you talking about the spindle nuts behind the hub?
Second, I'm not sure I understand your question. You need a six-prong tool to remove the hub?
Or are you talking about the spindle nuts behind the hub?
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Thanks for the replies so far.
To Andym, I used to go to Mountain View a lot when I worked for Sun Microsystems here in Houston.
I'm going to stick with the automatic hubs for now, but I may replace them with manual ones later. This 4wd hub is uncharted territory for me because I've never worked on a 4wd vehicle before.
Regarding the front hubs, both O'Reilly & Advance Auto Parts have hub removal sets for loan, but none of the 6-prong sockets are large enough to go around the outer hub body (about 2 7/8" diameter). It's the grayish cylinder immediately behind the hub caps with indentations for the 6-prong round socket to fit into.
I'm assuming hub body has to be unscrewed after the outer locking ring is removed. Or, does the whole body just slide out after the locking ring is removed?
Any responses are most appreciated.
This forum has been invaluable. I've re-calibrated my speedometer and installed headers using the advice from the experts here.
To Andym, I used to go to Mountain View a lot when I worked for Sun Microsystems here in Houston.
I'm going to stick with the automatic hubs for now, but I may replace them with manual ones later. This 4wd hub is uncharted territory for me because I've never worked on a 4wd vehicle before.
Regarding the front hubs, both O'Reilly & Advance Auto Parts have hub removal sets for loan, but none of the 6-prong sockets are large enough to go around the outer hub body (about 2 7/8" diameter). It's the grayish cylinder immediately behind the hub caps with indentations for the 6-prong round socket to fit into.
I'm assuming hub body has to be unscrewed after the outer locking ring is removed. Or, does the whole body just slide out after the locking ring is removed?
Any responses are most appreciated.
This forum has been invaluable. I've re-calibrated my speedometer and installed headers using the advice from the experts here.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2007
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Not sure I totally understand your question,.... but when you remove the cover of the hub your the locking mechanism (that "locks" the axle to the hub) this is retained by two c-clamps. the first on is a snap ring on the axle (remove with snap ring pliers). the second on is in a groove inside the hub. this one is a little trickier (but not difficult) to remove. I usually use a set of dental picks, but two small screwdrivers will also work. Next put two of the cover screws back in (1/4 way in) and use them to pull the lockin unit out (it should slide out pretty easy, if not just jiggle it while pulling) giving you access to the bearing retaining nuts. hope this helps
Last edited by cajunland; May 2, 2007 at 10:10 PM. Reason: clearer discription
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,233
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From: shawnee KS
Just a quick note, I agree, swap in the manuals. I don't ever want to wonder if they are locked in. Also- don't let getting into and or swapping to manual hubs scare you. If you did your speedo and headers by yourself, then this should be something you can do easily, it's just a little more time consuming. Whatever you end up doing, don't throw away any of your old hub parts. Throw them all in a small $2 plastic cheapy tool box, a lot of the parts will interchange. I have 2 "junk" sets now that I have went to several times for parts. Hope this helps too!
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
I imagine if you are doing a lot of off-roading then manual hubs are a good idea for their strength and positive engagement but I do like the convenience of autos when you are on mixed terrain or never sure when you'll need them. Especially in the winter when snow comes down fast but doesn't last long in the UK. I guess I was spoilt when I had my Land Rover with it being full-time 4wd. I never had to worry then.
The thought of having to stop and engage hubs just a the point when you need all the momentum to keep you going doesn't rest well with me.
The thought of having to stop and engage hubs just a the point when you need all the momentum to keep you going doesn't rest well with me.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Western US
In the winter months I just leave my manual hubs locked all the time and drop it into 4 when needed. Use that gear shift almost as much as the trany one. LOL
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Originally Posted by muckypaws
...I do like the convenience of autos when you are on mixed terrain or never sure when you'll need them. Especially in the winter when snow comes down fast but doesn't last long in the UK. I guess I was spoilt when I had my Land Rover with it being full-time 4wd. I never had to worry then.
So I like the convenience of auto hubs too... but I also like the convenience of a 4x4 system that works all the time.
The thought of having to stop and engage hubs just a the point when you need all the momentum to keep you going doesn't rest well with me.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 279
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Agree ... get the Manual Warns. Dealer over packed the bearings with grease and of cousre I didn't find out until my auto hubs wouldn't engage. Suxs to find out right before a snow strom. I spent one driving a F'in rental focus while I had them swapped out to Warns.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Central PA
Are you talking about the inner hub? you have to remove a Spring c-clip that is seated along outer hub in a grove . This will let the inner hub come out and then you should be the normal 4 prong socket to get to bearing. You might want to get a manual .
As for the hubs if you just need them for on road driving keep them clean with mystery oil . I still have them on mine (they were replace 30000 miles ago by old owner). I drive all highway miles and its easier going if the hubs are out till you need them. But they will let you down if you can't move truck at all when try to engage. Just get a cheap tow rope and put under seat. I put my superwinch hubs on to get fire wood in summer.
As for the hubs if you just need them for on road driving keep them clean with mystery oil . I still have them on mine (they were replace 30000 miles ago by old owner). I drive all highway miles and its easier going if the hubs are out till you need them. But they will let you down if you can't move truck at all when try to engage. Just get a cheap tow rope and put under seat. I put my superwinch hubs on to get fire wood in summer.
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Freshman User
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reply to lostin90s
Thanks for your reply and to the others.
I have a Haynes manual, but the confusing part for me is what's immediately inside after the chrome cap )with the 3 torx screws) is removed. It's a grayish round metal cap (2 7/8" diamter) with 6 grooves in it. It's what the torx screws are screwed into. I thought that it required some kind of special socket to remove it, but I guess all I have to do is remove the outer lock ring and just pull the hub body out. Then a 4-prong socket is required to go further into the bearings, etc.
I'll give it a try some time this week.
Again, all of the expert advice from this forum has been invaluable. I fixed another problem based on information already posted. I had a clunk in my drivetrain and searched for a solution. Sure enough, I found the answer. All I had to do was pull the rear driveshaft coupler shaft and put some green synthetic grease on the pinion gear. The clunk has completely disappeared.
I have a Haynes manual, but the confusing part for me is what's immediately inside after the chrome cap )with the 3 torx screws) is removed. It's a grayish round metal cap (2 7/8" diamter) with 6 grooves in it. It's what the torx screws are screwed into. I thought that it required some kind of special socket to remove it, but I guess all I have to do is remove the outer lock ring and just pull the hub body out. Then a 4-prong socket is required to go further into the bearings, etc.
I'll give it a try some time this week.
Again, all of the expert advice from this forum has been invaluable. I fixed another problem based on information already posted. I had a clunk in my drivetrain and searched for a solution. Sure enough, I found the answer. All I had to do was pull the rear driveshaft coupler shaft and put some green synthetic grease on the pinion gear. The clunk has completely disappeared.
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 339
Likes: 1
You got the idea now.Just remove the lock ring and screw in two of the torx back in for a finger hold and pull out.There is another washer I believe behind that then you need to get out like was mentioned in previous post.I also fixed my clunk by greasing the slip joint.
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Hub Outer Lockring - Help!
Well, I decided to take a look this afternoon, and I can't get the outer lockring off to remove the hub. It's on a '95 Bronco and my Haynes manual says it's different than the '94 & earlier which looks easier. It just says remove the outer hub lockring on the '95, but it doesn't provide a clue as to how to remove it.
There are two holes in the hub housing itself, and I can push the lockring down through them, but I still can't pull it off. Anyone have any secrets on getting the lockring off?
I took a picture of the hub and posted it on my gallery, if anyone would like to see what I'm talking about. If you look closely, you can see the holes in the hub housing that I mentioned.
There are two holes in the hub housing itself, and I can push the lockring down through them, but I still can't pull it off. Anyone have any secrets on getting the lockring off?
I took a picture of the hub and posted it on my gallery, if anyone would like to see what I'm talking about. If you look closely, you can see the holes in the hub housing that I mentioned.
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