When I bought my truck last year, the previous owner said that when he bought the truck it had automatic locking front hubs. He said he had issues with them slipping out of being locked, so he replaced them with manually locking ones.

My question is, would a new set of auto locking hubs likely fix the slipping issue he experienced, or is that inherent with auto locking of that era?

If they ended up working effectively, I would love to be able to shift to 4x4 in the cab without having to get out and lock the hubs.

Thanks!

 

Yeah they will work okay for a while but they will fail yet again long before a set of manuals. I have heard of some people having the auto hubs break if they have to romp on it a little. One of my buddies had a 92 F150 4x4 with auto hubs, he got caught up in a rut and had to lock it in to get out. He locked it in and soon as he stpped on the go pedal... snap! He blew one of them out. The other thing I think would be a drawback to the auto hubs is cost, I believe they are conciderably more expensive... not totally for sure on that one. Just my two pennies!

 

manual all the way. u almost never hear of them failing and when u lock them in you know there locked

 

I agree with manual hubs, manual transfer cases, manual transmissions and manual control engines.

Automatic or electronic controls are great, but they always seem to break when you really need them.

Besides if you stop and lock the hubs in before you are in a bad place, you can kick it in 4x4 before you get stuck.
That makes it easier to get through the bad place than it is to get yourself out after you get stuck in two wheel drive.

 

I can see how manual locking hubs are great for reliability, but when I'm driving roads to work, and a slippery hill at a stop light has me spinning out, getting out and locking the hubs isn't my idea of fun. or safe.

I'll probably stick with the manuals that are on there.

 

When there is snow on the ground, my truck has the hubs locked in before I leave the driveway.
When I start spinning out, push the transfer case in 4x4 and away we go.

 

What is the downside to leaving the hubs locked in manual if you're anticipating needing the 4x4 during the drive? Presumably there is one, or the hubs would be fixed in the locked position.

 

i do it all the time in the winter. the only downsides are wear and tear (turning on dry pavement can be a little hard on the axles an u joints) and a little less mpg.

 

Just as drz said, wear, decreased mpg, slow and tight turns(parking) let you know the joints are not CV. Old 4x4s rarely had lockouts from the factory so were always 'dragging' the front along when in 2WD.


I like the old Warn auto hubs. They are a hybrid. They look just like a regular manual lockout with the dial. And they function just like a manual lockout when the dial is in locked position. But when in the free position, they will lock up if power to the front axle is applied. Thus for the slippery start on the uphill intersection, one merely pops the transfercase in 4H and you've got 4x4 just as if the hubs were locked in. As soon as power is not applied, ie coasting or transfer out of 4x4, the hubs unlock. I've had them on a Scout II for 9 years now and they have worked flawlessly. The auto function will not provide compression braking as that unlocks them but if that's needed, lock them in by turning the dial. If the auto parts wear out, I still have a functioning hub by using the manual dial. I really don't know why these weren't used more on OEM other than cost. I like mine. Some report that in locked position they are weaker than the manual only Warns which is the only real downside I can see. I've not had a problem with mine running 33-12.50 on the stock Scout II Dana 44 front end.

Ken

 

my hubs are locked almost all the time havent noticed any difference in mpg turning radius or wear. they have been like that for almost 20,000 miles

 

Fuel mileage will drop a small amount with the front hubs locked, I notice about 1 to 1.5 MPG difference.
Driving with the hubs locked in makes almost no difference in steering unless you have a limited slip front axle or the transfer case is in 4X4.

The owners manual will tell you you should lock in the front hubs and drive for 10 miles or so every month as a minimum.
That keeps the oil on the internal parts in the front differential and works the U joints.