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I'd like to order the parts I need for a shop to replace so I minimize the downtime my rig will have - don't know nothin' about clutches - how long should a complete clutch job take for a competent shop? It chatters and vibrates and is rough shifting (three on the tree) and is starting to make some odd sounds even when in neutral. I have a good shop to utilize but don't want to wait around while they hunt down parts, I want to replace "everything" - pilot bearing, do I want to go with a new clutch-plate?
Well there are a lot of different clutches available dependings on the engine/tranny combo. This bit of info help narrow the search. A good shop can have it swapped out in a day if they don't have any jobs in front of yours. Especially if you have everything they need. The sticky part is if your flywheel needs to be resurfaced. It might take a few days for that to get done if there aren't equiped to machine them. I am of the belief that if your in there to change everything out at once and save the good parts for the next time.
Personally I like rockauto, site sponsor as well, since they carry 99% of the stock parts I need. They will also work with you if there is a problem which there rarely is.
Last edited by airharley; Feb 11, 2007 at 10:49 AM.
Reason: missing info
Maybe a new flywheel would be good insurance, I have a rusty extra somewhere, but I don't know if it's any good. Is the clutch itself a standard part? I think the flywheel or the other one that is installed needed a ring gear.
Well I did type 1964 f-100 clutch into google and a few websites popped up as showing the same clutch for every year between 61 and 89. That doesn't apply to the pressure plate or flywheel though. So what engine you have?
The extra flywheel can be taken to a machine shop where they can tell you if it's good or bad. Doesn't hurt to try to save money by having it checked out. Just remember the job isn't an easy task to do the second time around.
Not sure if they have a website, and I am not sure if they are only in California but I get all of my old parts from Carquest. So far, I have needed some pretty off-the-wall parts and they have had every one of them. Lot of availablilty from them.
It's the last 292 - for 64 Trucks. At least I'm pretty sure that's the last year the 292 was used for anything. Pressure plate and flywheel are two different parts? Any other parts that are usually worn to hell in that area? Shift fork or pilot bearing, springs, etc? How about the shift tree on the column? What I need is a "kit" probably.
Suggest check w/ shop, if they offer warranty they may want to purchase the parts from their supplier. Recently, replaced clutch on 65 F100 and found the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate at local NAPA auto parts store. Recommend having the flywheel surfaced at same time. For items unable to find locally, suggest crawl under truck and take inventory and order them as soon as possible. The clutch fork boot and the clutch fork retainer clip are the only other items I can think of that would make up the package to complete the project. Rebuilding clutch arm assembly, etc., can be done at any time. If you have basic machanic skills, rebuilding the clutch arm assembly is not difficult. As far as parts supplier's are concerned, suggest scroll to top of FTE and browse the sponsors online catalogs, LCM, NPD, Carolina Classic, to name a few. Also suggest request their free catalog, handy to have around. Again, if need part soon, suggest not ordering online but rather contact them to be sure part is instock. Had a project waiting several weeks for a part to arrive. Don't hesitate to post if unable to find an item, another member may have a source.
I did find a clutch kit from Kragen.com, threw in a new ring gear, and flywheel bolts to see the total price. It came out to $212 not including tax. The kit comes with a clutch disc, throwout bearing, pressure plate, and alignment tool. They do not carry a new flywheel for some reason but it gives you an idea. Plus if you use the kragen site they have free shipping for anything over $50. You know you can do the clutch yourself to save a few hundred $ instead of paying a shop to do it. Also check your local autoparts stores since you may be able to find it cheaper locally.
It kind of looks like the flywheel is the iffy part. The folks who rebuilt the motor did a good job, but they didn't spend much time on the clutch. I'm pretty handy but don't have the time much these days and a shop does that for a living - I hate show-stoppers because I don't have the specialised stuff. I did order an alte, er generator for the old beast, that's more my speed.
I figured having two would make sense, do the online stores get sniffy if I don't mind not getting my core charge back? I can get the other one rebuilt on my own time.
Nope not the ones I have dealt with. Try giving rockauto.com a quick glance. They should have everything you need in one place. Plus they have a 2-3 day at your door turnaround if it is in stock otherwise the parts come straight to you from the manufacturer.
check www.partsamerica.com also. It is Kragen, Schucks, and Checker sister site and generally cheaper in price. They will also match the price in the store. FYI
good place where i got mine, www.earlyford.com , get it all, the clutch disk, pressure plate, and the throwout bearing... what could of happened to your clutch making noises like that is it "exploaded" or broke like i had one do to me and the springs and metal peices are rotating around making noises... i have a 292 v8 3 speed, if u do then u need the 11 disk and plate, not the 10 in
BEFORE spending ANY money for a clutch that hops and chatters FIX your Cab Mounts, engine mounts or bell housing mounts.
Leading cause of the symptoms you describe are binding linkages due to BAD CAB MOUNTS, Engine Isolators or Bell housing Mounts. Fix the easy stuff first then we can really start spending your money on needless parts.
Be prepared to have a shop whop you along side the head for a grand on that clutch job.
Labor and materials as you know the flywhell os going to be chacked and they dont know anyone that cuts them anymore so you need a NOS one.....you get the picture.
Rough shifting = binding in gear between 1st and 2nd? At the bottom of the column underneath the hood are two gearshift selector levers-this is where the shift rods from the trans attach. In the levers are bushings and insulators. When these parts wear, break, or disappear, binding will result.
1961/64 F100/250 2WD = C3TZ-7343-A .. Bushing/Insulator Kit..not supplied by Ford, but NAPA sells the parts. The bushings themselves are also used on 1960/67 Fairlanes/Falcon/Comets = C0DF-7343-A.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jun 29, 2007 at 03:00 AM.
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