I have a lot of respect for this forum and I've come to you for help/advice. I don't know hardly anything about engines but I've done my best to come up with a plan for the y-block in my '63 F-250 unibody. I'd really appreciate it if you guys with more brains than me can find holes/inconsistencies/just plain dumb things in my plan before I start assembling the thing. Thanks guys/gals!

Keep 292 crank
Bore my 292 block 30 over
Use refurbished/strengthened EBU rods with ARP bolts

Blue Thunder intake manifold
4 bbl carb (any suggestions?)
Red's Hedders dual exhaust manifold

ECZ-G Heads ported and rebuilt by Mr. John Mummert
ECG 1.54 Ratio rocker arms - self-locking
Y-265S cam, 0.440" lift, 95# springs

MSD 8383 Distributor

Keep and rebuild T98 4 speed tranny

Keep Dana 60, but change rear gear ratio to 3.54 or 3.73 as truck will be more highway/normal use than heavy towing/pulling

Tire Size - Not sure ???

Like I said, any suggestions/improvements would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Put one of the roller timing chain sets in your budget so you can degree in the cam, and make sure to buy new lifters to go with the cam.
You also might reconsider the use of the T-98.
Edelbrock 500 cfm carb would be my choice, but there are others. Make sure the pistons have the proper stock or better compression height. Someone correct me if this is wrong, but they should be 1.781 inches or more (not less).
For highway use stick with the 3.54.
Balance the pistons, crank, rods.
According to a recent dyno test published in the y-block mag, your combo should end up in the 250 hp plus neighborhood, if you are willing to push the rpms.

Mike

 

[, if you are willing to push the rpms.

Mike[/QUOTE]

Dont be afraid to rev that sucker! I'm running a larger lift cam than you have listed and I shift @ 6,000 at the track. Dont forget about an exhaust upgrade. Headers or ram horns for duals will work fine.

Kevin Bigwin

 

I looked up the Edelbrock carb and it said that it can only go up to 220 degrees. My cam is listed at 224 degrees. Will that be a problem?

I don't know much about timing...can you explain the difference between the roller timing set and the one that is in the stock engine?

 

I was thinking of going with Reds Headers...do you have an opinion about those?

So you think this can handle 6000 rpm and not melt down?

Which synthetic do you put in yours? I'm used to Mobil 1, but I'd be interested in other viewpoints....

Also, since I've never built something like this before and I kind of live in a vacuum, what's it like for normal driving?...can my wife drive this thing and not kill herself in it? Like I said, I'm really new to this and don't have much to go on....

Thanks for the info!

 

The roller timing chain sets come with a crank sprocket that is cut with multiple keyways, so that your camshaft timing can be more easily fine tuned. If you use a stock timing set, you are pretty much forced to accept whatever the cam timing ends up being, and that may be too advanced or retarded. Also the roller chain is supposed to be stronger and less susceptible to stretch after the motor is placed into service.
Rebman, are you still in Grants Pass? If so we should get together. You, myself, and a guy that goes by Charlene56 (Cave Junction) over on the other forum could form a Southern Oregon Y's Guys Club . Send a PM.

Mike

 

I have a set of Red's headers full length in my '55 and they fit real well. Just have a clearance problem with the Toyo steering box to work out. I also got the 1.54 ratio rockers from Red's. He rebuilds them with bronze bushings on a hardened chrome shaft, better than stock. I sent my cam to Red's to be reground. He sends them out to Schnieder Racing Cams to be reground to one of several choices.

You will need to use an oil like Shell Rotella rated for diesel to get the proper additives to make the solid lifter cam last. Newer type oils have dropped the additives that protect the cam lobes.

You can see the 292 I rebuilt in my gallery and my web page linked in my sig. Good to hear some else is building a Y block.

 

Seriously? You can't use synthetic engine oil with a y-block? Even with a modern cam?

 

I was wondering if you'd remember me. I'm still farting around with my engine. I've been able to purchase a good chunk of the parts and I'm preparing to pull the old engine out soon, but I haven't made too much progress since we last talked on here. And I obviously still haven't learned much!

I'm down in Las Vegas. I went through Grants Pants on my way to Medford/Eugene last summer....we should have met up! My wife and I are still debating whether to move to Oregon. Since our house price went skyrocketing a few years back, we've really been considering it but with the kids in school it makes it pretty tough...

 

I forgot to mention that member Bessie is over in Medford. Maybe youll come back and that would make 4 of us. I drove through Vegas on the trip home several days ago. Those freeways are something else.

 

Check this link for a discussion on the flat tappet cam and modern oils.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ppet-cams.html

 

You'll want to use a diesel rated oil to get the additional zddp additive present in "diesel" type oils.

If you have to have a synthetic, Have a look at Shell Rotella 5W-40, Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40, Amsoil 5W-40, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 , etc.



The thinking is that, by using these (or 15W-40 and other straight wt diesel type oils) we're getting the zddp anti-wear additives that have been removed or seriously reduced in gasoline engine oils. These additives are required to prevent excessive wear in the cam lobes and flat tappets in our old engines.


ZDDP additives have been removed from gasoline type oils in the past because combustion products containing these additives have been found to prematurely "poison" the catalytic converters in the exhaust systems.


Evidently the reduction/elimination doesn't hurt roller follower or overhead cam gasoline engines.


The additives that allow those type engines to be "fine" don't cut it for flat/solid tappet engines and companies like Crane Cams, Isky, Comp, and most of the grinders are either suggesting that people use diesel oils AND to use stuff like GM EOS, and other off the shelf additives that replace or add zddp and other additives known to improve cam lobe lubrication.



Here's the CAVEAT though..... The NEW diesels coming for 2007 and newer are requiring Ultra LOW sulphur diesel fuel and a new spec oil that will have up to half of the ZDDP found in earlier oils.

They're doing it for the same reason....to make the cat converters and after-treatment systems last longer and work better.

I don't know what they're doing to the cams/followers etc.

I'm sure that the chemical engrs are feverishly attempting to find a compound that will lubricate as good as zddp but I think that a lot of new engines will also come with roller type lifters too.

That doesn't do us much good with our Y-blocks unless we replace our solid lifters with rollers!!



The good part is DELO, ROTELLA 15w-40 and other oils aren't going away tomorrow. and EOS and other additives aren't going away either.


The bottom line is don't use a gasoline rated oil in your Y-block UNLESS you add a zddp anti-wear addtive to it. Or use any any (NON-low sulphur/ULSD oil)

Mobil 1 DOES NOT have enough anti wear addtive to prevent cam lobe wear in an older flat tappet engine.

(And don't anyone talk to me about SLICK 50!!!. I have an OMC (FORD) 460 that RELIGIOUSLY got SLICK 50 for about 300 hours of it's short life!....It has about 7 or 8 FLAT LOBES on the cam now......)


Hotrod Mag article

Comp Cams bulletin #225




Regards,


Rick