Removing King Pins from a 52
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From: dallas usa
Removing King Pins from a 52
What is the best way to remove king pins on a 52? I have both wheels off with the front axle setting on blocks. I do not have enough room between the pins and the ground to get a good lick to drive the pins out from the bottom. I can always remove the front axle in order to get to the pins. Or --- Can I knock the pins out from the top (the cross bolt is removed). The king pins have a little washer forged onto the top of the king pin. I can easily remove that washer and then drive the pins out through the bottom. It looks like I am going to have to hit the pins real hard to remove them. Should I just beat the pins out? If I have trouble, do I just get a bigger hammer? What about using heat along with the pounding?
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Red Bluff U.S.A.
Removing King Pins from a 52
It's been a long time since I did the king pins on my 54 f100 but I believe you have to knock them out from the bottom and watch out for the shims and yes sometimes they do get stuck where you need to use heat then when you get them out take the spindals to the machine shop and let them press the new bushings in and have them honed so the king pins will fit snug don't try this your self or you will mess them up, good luck.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 431
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From: renfrew canada
Removing King Pins from a 52
i have done the kingpins in my 64 econoline 2wice....once with a ton of heat & a lotta pounding & the second by removing the axle, a little heat & a hydarulic press.......defanately pop the axle out & use a press, sooooo much easier, i actually spoiled the 1st axle with all the heat, by ruining the bore in the axle,
having the axle out also gives ya the chance to clean & paint the axle etc.
mikie!
near ottawa canada
58 m100 p/u
57 f100 panel
64 econo pickup
having the axle out also gives ya the chance to clean & paint the axle etc.
mikie!
near ottawa canada
58 m100 p/u
57 f100 panel
64 econo pickup
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Huntington USA
Removing King Pins from a 52
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
Not that hard to remove whole axle to get at it better. And then take it to the machine/engine shop of choice and have pushed out on press. Couple bucks, less time, energy, frustation, well worth it. I'm not sure on Fords but the C-trucks have a taper pin to remove first that locks in the pin. Can't drive out with it in there. Need to line up the flat spot on new pin for this lock pin. You may need the bushings pressed and reamed if brass, and shop can do those too while there. I have used heat and BFH in cases and hit it far too hard for my liking and won't go that route again. Do the old trucks now have the plastic bushings in kits? My 70's truck had them and I wrecked some trying to get back in. What they thinking, plastic? I will try to find metal in future if needed. Use new grease zerks too. New metal caps may be needed if not in kit. Have to peen over edge to keep in. I like the newer "caps" that screw on as long as threads are still good, be careful if you have those.
Huntington, IN 46750
Not that hard to remove whole axle to get at it better. And then take it to the machine/engine shop of choice and have pushed out on press. Couple bucks, less time, energy, frustation, well worth it. I'm not sure on Fords but the C-trucks have a taper pin to remove first that locks in the pin. Can't drive out with it in there. Need to line up the flat spot on new pin for this lock pin. You may need the bushings pressed and reamed if brass, and shop can do those too while there. I have used heat and BFH in cases and hit it far too hard for my liking and won't go that route again. Do the old trucks now have the plastic bushings in kits? My 70's truck had them and I wrecked some trying to get back in. What they thinking, plastic? I will try to find metal in future if needed. Use new grease zerks too. New metal caps may be needed if not in kit. Have to peen over edge to keep in. I like the newer "caps" that screw on as long as threads are still good, be careful if you have those.
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