1940 Ford floorpan supplier
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1940 Ford floorpan supplier
Hey guys,
I'm a newbee to the forum, and I have a project truck. I know that you guys love pics, so I'll attach one of my truck. I'm putting the truck on a Scout II donor frame. It is factory boxed and 4wd which will make my truck driveable all year round in Colorado. So, I'm looking for floor pans that can be welded into the cab. I searched the forum, but I did not see any reference to replacing floor pans. Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Bryan Burkhalter
I'm a newbee to the forum, and I have a project truck. I know that you guys love pics, so I'll attach one of my truck. I'm putting the truck on a Scout II donor frame. It is factory boxed and 4wd which will make my truck driveable all year round in Colorado. So, I'm looking for floor pans that can be welded into the cab. I searched the forum, but I did not see any reference to replacing floor pans. Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Bryan Burkhalter
Last edited by proguru; Jul 18, 2006 at 12:07 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,776
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From: Kalispell, MT
Hi Bryan, welcome to FTE. Lots of great guys around here. Sounds like you have a neat project with a unique donor - at least I haven't heard of anyone using that one. How does the Scout wheelbase compare to the 40/41's? Keep us updated.
The '41 and earlier trucks shared a lot of parts with the cars - you might find some of what you need from places like Mac's Antique Auto Parts, NY (they are online). Mack Products in Moberly, MO is another online source for sheetmetal. If you need quicklinks let me know.
I think the 40/41 body was Ford's best looking truck and creating something you can actually use is a kick. Have a blast with your's! I run a 48 F1 as a daily driver here in nw Montana - even during the winter.
Tim
The '41 and earlier trucks shared a lot of parts with the cars - you might find some of what you need from places like Mac's Antique Auto Parts, NY (they are online). Mack Products in Moberly, MO is another online source for sheetmetal. If you need quicklinks let me know.
I think the 40/41 body was Ford's best looking truck and creating something you can actually use is a kick. Have a blast with your's! I run a 48 F1 as a daily driver here in nw Montana - even during the winter.
Tim
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My Scout has been a kick in the pants. However, it is horrible in bad weather and sits most of the year because of the possibility of harrassment from law officers. Colorado has relaxed vehicle safety laws, but open fenders gives them a reason in their own mind to pull you over. The track of the two vehicles is within an inch and the wheel base is about a foot different. The firewalls of the two vehicles will sit in about the same place. The ford cab is a little shorter and will provide a longer bed. The bed will be homemade as most of my panels are really rough. My cab is really straight for a truck that has been in a field for the better part of its life. The truck was a plumbing truck originally and the paint is still somewhat legible. I've thought about restoring the ad and preserving the truck's roots. I've attached a pic of my donor. I'll post pics as the project progresses. I'm currently cutting the cage off of the Scout. Talk to you soon.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Orange County, CA
Bryan, welcome to the boards, great to have another classic Ford owner here. That is a great looking project, thanks for posting the pictures. Kepp us up to date, it sounds like a great marriage of the Scout and the Ford. What kind of drivetrain you going to use in the truck, stock Scout?
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Thanks for the welcome. I'm planning on using the stock Scout drivetrain for now. I'll go through the motor and make it oil tight one last time, but I'll probably be looking for a donor Chevy or GMC 4wd so that I do a conversion in the future. The IH motor is pretty expensive when work has to be done on it, and it weighs around 900 lbs. I should be able to shave a few hundred pounds by going to a Chevy SB. The project will probably make the purist hurl, but it will be the coolest thing on the trail. I wasn't very specific about the drive train, so I'll elaborate. The engine is the stock International 345, TF 727 tranny, D20 transfer case, Dana 35 front axle, Dana 44 rear (both with 4.88 gears), and 36" tires.
Last edited by proguru; Jul 18, 2006 at 04:36 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Charleston Illinois
floor pans
It doesn't look like you have much scout left to borrow parts from so this probably wont work.
I just swaped my 46 onto an 88 Ranger 4x4 chassis.
For mine, I just cut out the ranger floor pans, carefully measured them and cut them to fit the 46 cab. I'm using the factory Ranger cab mounts, I just moved them over about 3 inches. The floor pans on the ranger have nifty cab supports that run under the floor. It should be stronger than stock, and rubber mounts have got to be better than wood.
Does your scout have anything similar that could be modified to work?
I just swaped my 46 onto an 88 Ranger 4x4 chassis.
For mine, I just cut out the ranger floor pans, carefully measured them and cut them to fit the 46 cab. I'm using the factory Ranger cab mounts, I just moved them over about 3 inches. The floor pans on the ranger have nifty cab supports that run under the floor. It should be stronger than stock, and rubber mounts have got to be better than wood.
Does your scout have anything similar that could be modified to work?
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Fix, It is interesting that you mention pulling the pan out of the Scout. I was thinking of that on the way home. It is still very much in tact with minor rust that I can patch. I think that is a great idea as the tunnel and shifter position will be perfect. The only concern that I have is that the tranny tunnel is very wide and may press my pedal locations very close together as the Ford is very narrow in that part of the cab. Thanks for the suggestion. That could save me some $ and make my shifter install easier.
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From: Charleston Illinois
Ranger floor pan in 46
I went the other way with the trans tunnel. The Ranger tunnel is enormous. I had planned on using the entire floor, but instead I opted to just patch in the floor pans on either side.
I will be using the factory 46 Tunnel and shifter cover. Since my truck will be about the same hieght as stock the trans clears perfectly. If I was going to lower it any I would have to rethink the tunnel.
The picture of my floor pans is attached below, you can see the body mounts in the pans, and there is a factory cover for each so they aren't noticable under the carpet. I left a one inch flange in the old floor pans so that the new ones set on top of them. Please excuse the welds, I was trying to burn up some old, and slightly rust wire. I probably should have just thrown it out.
The newer floor pans will also allow me to get rid of the factory 46 front mounts which are clearly visible from the engine compartment. The new mounts will be hidden under the cab.
I'm waiting for sheetmetal to finish the rest of the floor, and then I can finaly hook everything back up.
I will be using the factory 46 Tunnel and shifter cover. Since my truck will be about the same hieght as stock the trans clears perfectly. If I was going to lower it any I would have to rethink the tunnel.
The picture of my floor pans is attached below, you can see the body mounts in the pans, and there is a factory cover for each so they aren't noticable under the carpet. I left a one inch flange in the old floor pans so that the new ones set on top of them. Please excuse the welds, I was trying to burn up some old, and slightly rust wire. I probably should have just thrown it out.
The newer floor pans will also allow me to get rid of the factory 46 front mounts which are clearly visible from the engine compartment. The new mounts will be hidden under the cab.
I'm waiting for sheetmetal to finish the rest of the floor, and then I can finaly hook everything back up.
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From: Charleston Illinois
Helpfull hint
Some one gave me this advice so I figure I might as well pass it along.
When I started measuring for the floor pans I had a lot of trouble getting the lines drawn out for the cuts. Some one recomended making the floor pan patterns out of poster board first. You can cut a trim all you want for about a buck, and when its perfect you just lay the poster board on the donor pans and mark around it. Saved me a lot of hair pulling.
It even allowed me to locate the body mounts so that they landed right over the frame rail.
When I started measuring for the floor pans I had a lot of trouble getting the lines drawn out for the cuts. Some one recomended making the floor pan patterns out of poster board first. You can cut a trim all you want for about a buck, and when its perfect you just lay the poster board on the donor pans and mark around it. Saved me a lot of hair pulling.
It even allowed me to locate the body mounts so that they landed right over the frame rail.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Southwestern Ontario
Ford floopan
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Hey guys i am new to this too, but it looks like everyone needs sheet metal.I am a refrigeration mechanic,for a food chain. we always have old broken up case shelving. they grate floor pans or door skins. ask some the next time your in a store if you can have them.
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