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Door Ajar Light won't go out

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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 03:45 PM
  #1  
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Door Ajar Light won't go out

I am dealing with a gremlin in my 1995 FORD Ranger. 4L engine, 4X4. I think I have a problem with the door sensor in the passenger door. while driving the door ajar light stays on, and after turning off the truck and exiting the vehicle the dome light remains on. I pulled the fuse in the sidepanel (fuse 27) to the dome light to get it to turn off, but I need to know if it is a difficult fishould I attempt to fix the problem myself?) or should I take it to a dealer to fix? I have a haynes manual(I haven't looked in it yet to see about replacing the sensor) Am I thinking in the right direction, or could it be something totally different?

Thank you in advance for any replies.......
Steve Piper
 
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 04:13 PM
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Easy repair. Spray WD40 on the latch mechanism (the switch is part of the latch) and then open and close the door a few times. Might as well do both doors.

It won't last forever, but neither will replacing the latch, which costs a lot more.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by john112deere
Easy repair. Spray WD40 on the latch mechanism (the switch is part of the latch) and then open and close the door a few times. Might as well do both doors.

It won't last forever, but neither will replacing the latch, which costs a lot more.
Excellent Post!

I am a new member here but not a stranger to turning wrenches, or "bending" them from my days as as a technition in ithe Army.

The man in green speaks the truth, a shot of the miricle worker may do it. Think of how many times that area has been lubricated since you bought the vehicle or it was manufactured. Unless I am wrong, and the PTB "Powers that Be" can correct me later, the switch is pressure activated, IE the latch rotates up to release the jamb or anchor and then activates the switch. The dust boot on the switch may have failed and collected dirt around the plunger and stuck. A shot of that around the latch area may relase it and lube it to allow it to function again.

However (Pardon the newbie to add aditional info) you may have to tear into the mechanisim if this doesn't do it. Follow the manual Haynes or otherwise to the letter. You don't want to mess up any seals or electrical circuts trobleshooting the problem. Primarily(sp) now it's electrical and possibly mechanical (Meaning you didn't add if you had problems opening the door prior or door strikes as well as immertion problems or adding to it by making it a mechanical problem while tearing in to it). Follow the manual and remove the switch or at least access it to inspect and lubricate for your first try. Then check the latch and mechanism operating measurements, or how they are supposed to work. I have seen many switches operated by bell crank, striker or springs come up as an electrical failure and it was due to a machanical cause. Take a look and report back.

Good Luck!


(Please Pardon the New guy;-))
 
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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well if you get really tired of it you can just cut the wire to the light or just the door causing the problem. sometimes its best to just let things go then spend 100 dollars replacing it, and it not like its a check engin light.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 03:06 AM
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Steve,

YES,YES,YES!!! The WD40 spray worked for my Sable. The dome light stayed on, and the door ajar light was glowing on the dash. Sprayed all 4 doors with WD40 as outlined below, and within 10 minutes the problem vanished. It's been well over a year without a problem.

This was copied from another forum:

"This procedure is a solution to the dome lights not shutting off when the car’s doors are closed. I know for sure that this will work on any vehicle that has the dome light switch as an integral part of the door latch.

If your dome light does not shut off when you close the door, simply use a can of WD40, with the thin nozzle attached. Insert the thin nozzle into the lock cylinder and spray generously, then insert the nozzle into the latch mechanism and spray.

Our Taurus, a 1997 GL, has had this problem since we bought it in 1999, and I spray the lock and latch every time I change the oil, as a preventative measure. It works great, as the only permanent solution is to replace the latch mechanism."
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 06:58 AM
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Welcome to FTE rcsteve.

Check out & "mine" the "Read First", "Technical" sticky Ken has located atop this forums main page, it has links in it for answers to many of our common Ranger problems, including the one your having. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=107538

So if the above urgings to try WD-40 doesn't convince you, read through the link provided in the technical forum.
Just scroll down to the "miscellaneous" section at the bottom & click on the "dome light, door ajar" link.

Enjoy all the other info links posted &, HAPPY MINING there!!!!!

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the info.... I'll try the wd40 trick this weekend.... any idea how hard it is to remove the door panel if indeed I do need to replace the switch? My haynes manual shows the procedure, but it looks like it is leaving out some steps..... anyway, Thanks again for the help...... I will be using this forum for answers to my repair questions..


Steve
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 05:58 PM
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You shouldn't have to replace the switch. I've heard of guys going on 2 years after one squirt.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 06:10 PM
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Yeah you won't have to replace the switch, though pulling the door is a very simple process if you ever need to.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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The switch isn't hard to replace, WD-40 didn't work for me, besides a couple days. The hardest part is forcing your arm in the door to get to the switch. Paid about 14 bucks for mine each. They have been going strong for three and a half years now. You might as well get new ones, Ford redesigned them to eliminate the problem.
 
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