Front shock install on 2000 Ranger 4X4
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From: NJ
Front shock install on 2000 Ranger 4X4
I replaced my rear shocks this weekend with Rancho RSXs. It wasn't too bad, except for having to let the thing loose, catch it with a screwdriver and finesse the bolt through it. Ugh!
Now I want to do the fronts. I assume I have to jack the frame (another trip to Sears for a truck jack), loosen the top, then bottom bolts and pull the old one out through the bottom?? Do I need to remove wheel? If anyone can give me a step-by-step, I'd appreciate it. Am already soaking the bolts in penetrating oil.
Now I want to do the fronts. I assume I have to jack the frame (another trip to Sears for a truck jack), loosen the top, then bottom bolts and pull the old one out through the bottom?? Do I need to remove wheel? If anyone can give me a step-by-step, I'd appreciate it. Am already soaking the bolts in penetrating oil.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2003
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I have the same shocks, you should be very happy with your choice. I watched mine being installed, at Sears, and they did not reomve the front wheels. It looks like it would be easier without the wheel in the way, but obviously I don't know the best way because I paid to have it done. Good luck.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 943
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From: Randolph, NJ
I did not technically have to jack on the frame. I jacked on the crossmember and put a jackstand on the jackpoint on the control arm. Technically, that could be done without jacking on the frame.
Yes, you will need the wheel off unless you are plastic man. I removed the plastic mud guard that shields is attached to the fender well, that helped enormously in reaching the top nut on the shock. Other than that it was just a bolt-out, bolt-in job in the front. It was far less of a fight to get the new ones in in the front. My worst problem was the upper shock bushings. My stock ones looked pretty beat, and my aftermarket replacements didn't come with new ones (they said to use the stock ones). I picked up some Monroe bushing kits at Napa (had to special order) so I had to take the fronts off again to put those on.
-Jim
Yes, you will need the wheel off unless you are plastic man. I removed the plastic mud guard that shields is attached to the fender well, that helped enormously in reaching the top nut on the shock. Other than that it was just a bolt-out, bolt-in job in the front. It was far less of a fight to get the new ones in in the front. My worst problem was the upper shock bushings. My stock ones looked pretty beat, and my aftermarket replacements didn't come with new ones (they said to use the stock ones). I picked up some Monroe bushing kits at Napa (had to special order) so I had to take the fronts off again to put those on.
-Jim
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From: NJ
Okay, will take the wheel off. Have to check the brakes anyway. And, no, I'm not plasticwoman. But used to be ...
Did you have a problem with that top bolt? I hear the shock wants to rotate and you have to either break that rod off (which I'm afraid to do) or hold the shock rod with pliers while turning the upper nut. Do you just yank on that fender liner material? I looked at it and it doesn't appear to be the kind of plastic fastener with the pop-out eye in it. Did you let the shock loose from its wrapping before hooking up? I tried to keep it tied when doing the rears and couldn't get the axle up enough to meet it so I had to break the wire. Then the fun and cursing began. Thanks.
Did you have a problem with that top bolt? I hear the shock wants to rotate and you have to either break that rod off (which I'm afraid to do) or hold the shock rod with pliers while turning the upper nut. Do you just yank on that fender liner material? I looked at it and it doesn't appear to be the kind of plastic fastener with the pop-out eye in it. Did you let the shock loose from its wrapping before hooking up? I tried to keep it tied when doing the rears and couldn't get the axle up enough to meet it so I had to break the wire. Then the fun and cursing began. Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Hillsboro, OR
I replaced the front shocks on my 98 4x4 without removing the wheels or the plastic mudgaurds. But, removing the mudguards should definately be done, and it may be easier with front wheels off. Personally, it didn't cause a problem for me, and I feel much safer sitting under a truck with the wheels still on it. And about removing the top bolt, the shock will want to turn. Use an end wrench on it, from the side, to keep it from turning. Don't remember what size it was. Good luck
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 943
Likes: 2
From: Randolph, NJ
The shocks that were on mine had a nut on the rod just below the upper shock mount point. You could get a wrench on there and hold the shock from spinning while backing the nut off. I ended up breaking the top of the rod trying to get the nut off anyway. I would go for the pliers approach, since your old shocks won't be reused.
I suppose you could do it with the wheel on by getting the lower nuts from below and the upper one from above (maybe even from between the tire and fender), but I would think it would be a lot of silliness just to avoid taking off the wheel.
-Jim
PS: Sorry about the gender assumption.
I suppose you could do it with the wheel on by getting the lower nuts from below and the upper one from above (maybe even from between the tire and fender), but I would think it would be a lot of silliness just to avoid taking off the wheel.
-Jim
PS: Sorry about the gender assumption.
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From: NJ
No problem about the gender. I've been getting that all my life and, admittedly, working on cars/trucks is a bit of a different hobby for a woman, but you get such a feeling of accomplishment out of it.
Anyway, I have no problem taking the wheel off. I will buy a heavy-duty truck/SUV jack because I'm used to working on shortie cars and have small jacks now. Thanks for all the help. Wouldn't want to do it without you guys.
Anyway, I have no problem taking the wheel off. I will buy a heavy-duty truck/SUV jack because I'm used to working on shortie cars and have small jacks now. Thanks for all the help. Wouldn't want to do it without you guys.
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From: NJ
Okay, I completed the job yesterday. It was easy getting the old shocks off by using an open-end wrench on the built-in nut on the old one but the Rancho RSXs did not have it. I realized that I had to go back to Pep Boys for the shock-top tool which, luckily, they had. The only problem I had was not being able to get the torque wrench in there and then when I put the extension on, I was afraid of snapping it so I just did it as tightly as I could without compressing the bushings too much. Bottom ones torqued to spec fairly easily. And, yes, I did put the truck up on jack stands and took the wheel and fender liner off. The truck handles/stops better now (not quite up to my Miata standards!) and the ride is not severely degraded. Thanks for all the help, everyone!!
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From: NJ
Surprisingly, it didn't, which really annoyed me, seeing as how the OEM was so much easier to remove. The Rancho has the little squared-off eye at the end of the rod that you have to use that specialty tool on, which, as I said, is difficult to get torqued properly. I ended up guessing that I have it right rather than snapping something off, which I'm very good at -- ha ha
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