I have been surfing for 3 days now trying to compile a list of steps I need to take to remove my passenger side exhaust manifold. From the carbon build up on the metal gasket near the rear I suspect the leak is coming from there. Now I have read thru so many forums trying to get my steps in order. Those that have done this I beg of your help.
So far I have done:
1. Remove inner wheel well lining
2. Removed auto transmission dipstick tube
3. Removed the metal guard that covers the spring and shock housing
4. Removed tire

Questions from here on out:

Do I remove the front part exhaust "y" pipe with the cats from both manifolds and the back where it connects to the strait exhaust pipe? I don't know how to even get a socket on the upper flange bolt that connects the cat to the manifold! I tried everything I could think of.

How do I get behind the spring/shock housing to get to the bottom manifold bolts?

Is it really necessary to jack the motor up and if so what are the procedures for this?

I am a DIY'er with pretty good skills decent tools and a no fear attitude but lacking the direction. I searched high and low for answers before starting this thread.
Thank you for your time in advance and I will certainly post as to help others following as I have been.
5.4l gas 4x4

 

..Well to answer my own question I did not have to jack up the motor or take the motor mount off..I didn't even have to remove the starter.
So my first question answered is that you do not have to take off the cat. I couldn't get a socket to sit strait so I could take off the top bolt..hack saw took care of the top stud in the flange. Bottom came off with some heat and a lot of pb blaster soaking.

I had to take off the manifold bolts behind the spring housing using 2 diff size ratchets and a lot of feel...flashlight helps too.
I got lucky as the truck is only 8 years old with 140k on it. all but 3 studs came right out..For the stuck ones I put an acetlyne torch on and made them red hot then dosed them with pb blaster like I read in another thread. Do that a few times and the heat cycling will expand and contract the stud...when cool again use some vice grips and give it a turn....if it doesnt turn a little right away dont force it just repeat the heat.
When I got manifold off, only the rear port gasket was leaking...but looking at the manifold I discovered it was cracked......well that sucks cause I thought I was gonna get off with just a gasket cost..Weeeeeeee