Hello all
This is my first post here. I have been looking around the threads for the past few days and I found a few answers to some problems I have.

My truck is a 1983 Ranger 2WD no a/c 2.8

Here is the history:
I picked up the truck a few months ago, the guy I got it from said there was a carb problem. At his house it was runing a little bit rough and was stalling at first. After it warmed up a bit it stoped stalling. It was sitting in his driveway for 7 months.

On the way from his house it seamed like it wasnt getting gas, with my foot on the gas it sputtered like it was running out, after a few seconds it ran better. It stalled slowing down to a stop a few times and also when I was stoped for a light. The battery was week getting closer to death with each stall, finaly it didnt have enough power to turn it over.
I got it towed to the goodyear down the road. They did a compression test and made sure it was getting fuel said it was something with the carb and they dont mess with them. Replaced the battery and I drove home.

I took a look at it and noticed the choke wasnt opening. I got it running a little better by disconecting the automatic idle and set it manualy. (It kept stalling when it warmed up and self adjusted the idle)
Two days later the battery died was totaly dead. No lights left on or anything. I took the battery back and they said it was defective they gave me a new one.

Hooked up the new one and it wouldnt turn over, it was getting plenty of power. I think the eec-iv lost the settings due to lack of battery for so long.
I messed with the idle mixtures a bit and now it starts but stalls after 1-10 seconds. sputters like it isnt getting enough fuel. stepping on the gass is the same thing. When it stalls smoke comes out of the carb.
I checked the carb and fuel is flowing when i push the throttle.

I pulled the codes and got 21 24 63 68. the 68 went away when I rehooked the auto idle. 21 and 24 may be due to it not warming up. and 63 because of the problem with the choke not opening.
Cant do the running test because of the stalling.

I want to do a carb rebuild but the tag is missing off of it. The kits look like they are slightly diferent depending on the part number. I figure it is a motorcraft 2150A from looking in the books but I cant figure the model number.
The only part number I can find is on the choke that reads E37E-AA the kits found have 3 letters in them the closest I can figure is E37E-AAA I would like to make sure before I order one. Is there any other part of the carb I would need to buy that isnt included in the kit? I noteced the feedback control is cracked, maybe the 63 code?

Looking around the threads It looks to me to be a vacuum problem as well as a carb problem. The EGR was replaced before I got the truck, looking at it it still looks brand new.

The truck has manual breaks, I plan to install a break booster once I get the problems sorted out. Where exactly does the vacuum hose hook to?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
If there is anymore details anyone needs that I may of left out let me know. I am sorry if I put too much info in here, I tried to be as detailed as I can.

Thanks

 

Did you put fresh gas in the truck? When gas goes skunky, everything gets gummed up and it won't run right.
Pull the distributor cap and look at the contacts. The caps with aluminum contacts corrode when left sitting(for 7 months). Get any brand with brass contacts (Wells,Accel etc.) Pull & inspect the plugs while you are there.
The vacuum hoses are probably old & cracked in many places. Have a good look at them & replace as necessary.
After that, if you still can't get it running right, consider rebuilding the carb.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll check the cap and plugs in the morning.
I did look at the vacuum hoses and didn't see any warping or cracks in them. I have a vacuum guage I will check the presure and the hoses in more detal once I get it running better.

Found out the gas guage don't work right, before the battery problem it ran out of gas. So the gas in it now is new.

I am going to post a message in the carb section to see if anyone can help me identify it better.

 

I also have an 83 that I use for a plow truck. I gave up on the codes a long time ago. Go back to the basics. Make sure you have compression, spark, fuel and air.

 

Thanks for the help.
I found the vacuum leak, it was where you would hook up the breaks to, I answered one of my own questions there. (the port wasn't pluged up)
I am still having a problem with it staying runing.
I can get it started and it runs for a little bit then stalls. It looks to me like it stops getting fuel. Looking at the carb fuel does flow when i push on it. When I have it running and giving gas it just dies. Sometimes smoke comes out of the carb.
I added another 5 gallons of fuel. it is at 3/4 as far as I can tell by the guage. I am not sure if it is working right.

The only thing I can think of is that maybe the gas guage does work and there is still bad gas in it. Thought it didn't work because when it hit the 1/2 mark it totaly died like it ran out of gas. And after adding more gas it ran.
I am prity stumped now. Could it be a bad fuel pump or filter? I rueld it out because I know gas is flowing, maybe there cloged and it is not getting enough gas?

If anyone thinks there may be still bad gas in it how can I remove it? Add more to dilute it? or drain the tank?

Thanks

 

Can't help with the kit and no tag, your gonna have to go generic on the kit. Code 63 is for the tp sensor, but if the choke doesn't come off after warming it up the idle is too high and sets code 63. Does sound like you need to overhaul the carb. Replace the fuel filter also.

 

I forgot to mention I fixed the 63 code by replacing the tps.
And I got the carb number from a dealer. I found 2 diferent kits for it, one is about $25 1/2lbs and the other was about $55 2lbs shipping weight My guess the heaver more expensive one is the better one to get, I guess it comes with the valves rather then just gaskets. I have been putting it off because of the amount of time to do it. I'll replace the fuel filter and order the kit.

Thanks

 

It sounds like you may have another vacuum leak. Hook up your guage. It will tell you if there is a leak, if a valve is sticking, if a cylider is not firing. Also do a compression check on all 6, and check the timing. Make sure you disconnect the spout (a single wire with a plastic disconnect real close to the distributor). That is the advance for the ignition.

 

One more thing. The 2.8 has adjustable valves. Does it sound like the lifters are knocking? If so, you can tighten the valve clearance. The exhaust is .016 and intake is .014. Set them with the engine cold.

 

I rebuilt the carb, adjusted the valves, changed plugs and wires.

It starts up and runs for a a few min, then it just dies like it stoped getting spark. If I wait a few seconds and start it again it will run for a second or two. If I try to start it right away it wont start. If I let it sit for a long time It will run for a while again.

I thought it may be a heat issue, after it died I felt around to see if any thing seamed hot. The only thing I noticed was that the TFI module on the distributor is hot to the touch. I don't know if that is normal.

Steady voltage going into the coil, Vacuum was about 15 idle.
I dont know how to test voltage going to the plugs, I was afraid to stick the probe up into the wire.

I don't know what else to try. Sounds like a electronic problem somewhere, maybe heat related. I figured it it was a a mechanical problem I don't think it would have the same outcome over and aver again.

I think maybe the isue of changing the battery caused a spark somewhere and shorted something out.

Would like any sugestions.

Thanks

 

My 83 was doing the same thing and it turned out to be the module on the distributor. Replaced it and the truck has been running fine ever since. They do get hot, so that's why you need to put a film of the heat sink on it before assembly. I think those can be tested at an auto parts store, so take it off and have it tested. It's easier to pull the distributor than to try it on the engine. Make sure you mark everything so the distributor goes back in the same way. A felt tip pen works well for this. Good luck.

 

I got a spark plug tester and checked, it looks like it is getting spark when it dies. It looks like it starts sparking at the wrong time. I checked the voltages going into the module looks good. I noticed when I keep it in start position it seems to go fine, once I let it go to run it acts up. All the run voltages look fine. I am guessing some sensor somewhere or the computer its self is causing iratic timing. I was thinking about taking the whole computer timing out of the picture and getting this distributor http://www.centuryperformance.com/de...ID=MAL-4560801 and latter on getting a diferent carb without all the electronic stuff on it. Maybe a Holley 0-7448 looks like the same thing that is on there but without all the feedback stuff. Havent made up my mind on the carb I should get would like some sugestions. The Unilite distributor should take care of the problem I am having.

 

I've got an '83 2.8 with the Holley 350cfm (model 2300) 0-7448 carb and a Mallory UniLite. Mine was an older, laying-about centrifigal-only distributor that I sent to the factory for an updated advance mechanism.

The carb is too big for a stock engine. I jetted down two sizes - I'm at #59s, I beleve, and som e have gone to #57s - and put in a 6.5" power valve. Stock was 10.5" and I'm going to try a 8.5" this summer. Mine idles with the throttle plates closed at 800 RPM (A/C on) only because I've retarded the initial timing to 8* BTDC.

10* seems about perfect for these engines: starting is like turning on a litght switch. But I wasn't happy with the idle so re-curved the distributor: 8* at 800RPM, 20* at 2200RPM and all-in (34*, 36*, 38* - whatever you can get) at 3800RPM. With a smaller carb you wouldn't have this problem.

There are alternatives: a small bore 2150 seems to serve well for less bucks and a vacuum advance distributor for this engine from the Pinto/Mustang II era - like '79 or so. I'm not sure about the part number for the carb; you'll have to check around. But they do come with two different venturi sizes and you don't want the larger one that uas used on V8s.

This truck started as a pasture-rescue project. It died in the field and was left there. It was being used to feed the horses. And house the wasps. It had been shot. The only reason I put this much in it was becasue it was a debut-year 4WD Ranger with "the big engine." And I haven't found another with a lower serial number.

 

Get it running before you start putting a lot of new stuff on it.