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I've never heard of adding lead to oil. Lead substitute to gasoline for older engines yes, but never to oil. The lead substitute in gasoline protects the valve seats. If you have the heads rebuilt you can have hardened seats installed.
As a side note, I never add anything to motor oil and never mix motor oils. They are vigorously tested as supplied to great expense. Adding anything to oil or mixing oils creates an unknown.
I’m running a 306 ford motor with a cam and aluminum heads out of a 90’s 5.0 mustang.
Originally Posted by '65Ford
I've never heard of adding lead to oil. Lead substitute to gasoline for older engines yes, but never to oil. The lead substitute in gasoline protects the valve seats. If you have the heads rebuilt you can have hardened seats installed.
As you can see above, he has heads from a 90's Mustang. Those heads already have hardened seats and do not need a lead additive.
As you can see above, he has heads from a 90's Mustang. Those heads already have hardened seats and do not need a lead additive.
Good catch.
Couple folks mentioned zinc. Perhaps Mark can chime in but I Ihink the '90's 5.0 engines got hydraulic roller lifters so they don't need zinc additive either.
The PO of my truck told me that when he did an oil change, he would add a bottle of lead additive.
I’m running a 306 ford motor with a cam and aluminum heads out of a 90’s 5.0 mustang.
is there a specific brand anyone recommends over another?
The truck is a weekend cruiser so I will probably only be doing an oil change once or twice per year.
If that is an engine from a 90's Mustang it would have roller lifters and there is no need for a zinc additive, unless the PO installed a flat tappet cam. You should try to contact the PO and find out if it still has roller lifters, if so any good brand of oil will do. If it was built with a flat tappet cam and you are only changing oil once a year buy a good quality racing oil like Valvoline VR1 or Driven HR or GP1 series oil. The difference in cost between a quality racing oil and off the shelf oil is minimal compared to a wiped cam lobe which is usually death to the entire engine.
Also adding a ZDDP additive is usually a waste of money since most of them never mix with the oil properly plus too much ZDDP is just as bad as having none.
Don't have any knowledge about '90's 302's, so I can't offer any advice, but the write up reads like a pretty slick Slick. Not sure we have seen any photo's, so start sharing, pictures are always welcome, and that way we can share in your enthusiasm or nitpick the small details for fun...just kidding, this is your truck and last time I heard, it is up to you what you do with it, but there are lots of folks all over the board with ideas, and maybe something you have done will inspire someone less far along and encourage them too.
Look forward to reading the final outcome of whither or not you need to do the additive thing, but leaning some good things in the process.
I would have to assume by B cam he means a Ford Performance M-6250-B303 cam. That is a roller lifter cam and there is no need for anything more than a high quality off the shelf oil. I would use whatever Ford recommended for a 91 Mustang 5.0.
The stock 5.0 cam is 266/266 duration and .444/.444 lift the B303 cam is 284/284 with .480/.480 lift. I had one in a 1988 5.0 that was converted to a carburetor, and it is a strong running cam above 4000 rpm but is pretty much done by 6000.
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