TPS I am over complicating it I guess.
My trucks having issues shifting, no codes from transmission or even the engine. It will shift when I let off the throttle every single time. So I tested my TPS.
Idle its 0.11
Open its 0.56
So my question after looking at RA and local parts stores and now seeing these things up to 80 bucks... idk which version i am to buy. almost none of these look like the same connection. All of them have 3 pins in a circle/triangle shape.
Mine uses 3 pins but in a 4 pin box? pattern with one ping not being used. Some of these sensors with 3 pins look to come with a plug that I guess I am meant to replace on my truck?
Is it correct to think that is what i am meant to do, buy the sensor and replace the harness with the one that came with it and install the sensor or am I missing something?
Those old throttle body mounted ones on the underside just had your 4 wire connector
Your 1996 Bronco should be EEC5 with pids capability if you had a good bi directional scan tool (FORD NGS) you could check shift solenoid pids and force it to shift
If it has no codes for the transmission, the processor thinks the trans is okay
Explain the shift trouble it's having
Late shift? are you on the gas heavy?
I hooked up FORScan and I’m not getting any transmission codes, and no engine codes other than O2 sensors (cats were stolen a while back).Because of the shifting behavior, I tested the TPS and got
0.11V at idle
.56V at WOT
From what I understand, that’s way below the expected 0.9V 4.5V range, so it seems like the TPS isn’t providing a usable signal to the PCM, which would explain why it only shifts when I lift off.
I went ahead and ordered one with the same connection from the bay, should be here tomorrow so I will find out. I just really hope its the culprit, I wanted to test and make sure thats the part that was failing rather than shotguning parts.
4.5-5.0 volts is TP at WOT voltage (wide open throttle)
Get a reference table for PID values for your truck and compare them to the PID readings your truck pits out
and
Put it all back together with a new gasket. Hooked the battery back up, let it run for 15 minutes with AC and lights on. Took it for a drive and it runs smooth af now, shifts great and all back to normal.
I always see people replacing these things first when issues arise that or the IAC and it never is the problem.
This would be the first time I actually seen the effects when one is faulty, the shifting issues really through me for a loop as it made me feel like it was going to be a whole transmission issue.












