I purchased this 06 Navigator last month as a temporary replacement for my wrecked Navigator. It had many issues, but no deal breakers. It has a clean body, good interior other than the driver’s seat. I solved the running issues by repairing coolant leaks on the coil packs. I replaced the solenoids for the VCT actuators, one was hanging. New front brakes and a set of tires and sensors. $3300 at this point. Ice cold air but the driver’s window was cracked and inop. Good enough to drive but more to do. Last weekend I tore the door apart and found the motor unplugged. I bought back my wrecked 06 and am using it for parts. I pulled that door apart also and removed the glass and regulator. I tested both motors and switch sets on the wreck and all those parts work. Nothing worked on the “new” car. Tested the harness on the wreck and the larger green wire was battery hot, the pink wire was ignition hot to the window module. The new car had good ignition power on the pink wire but the battery hot green was dead. Time to pull schematics and check fuses. Dg is dark green and pk is pink.



As you can see, there are only three connectors and one splice on the green battery hot wire. This also shows the ignition hot pink wire through the time delay relay. One connector is at the junction box in the right kick panel with all the fuses. The 30 amp fuse is good, but the wire is dead at the next connector which is in the door. The last connector connects to the motor/module, which controls the one touch down functions. All these drawing are the factory drawings on charm.li website. Next I wanted to see what the splice powered so look at the schematics again.



You can see in the first drawings it says to see 13-4, here is 13-4. Scroll to the right and look at the splice. It only powers two things, the window and the security system. The security system works, so it is good to there. I am about to retire from being a garage foreman at a power utility running Fords and International trucks. I have had too many to count Fords apart chasing wiring flaws over the last 20+ years. I have been a professional mechanic since the late 70s. I am 80 years old and retiring in 10 days.
I next looked for the location of the splice, usually in the door sill tray. Here is the drawing showing its location.

The splice is s391, this is one of two right a pillar drawings. More to follow

 

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I pulled the door sill to look for anything obvious on the harness in the splice area. The sill was dry, showing no signs of ever being wet or dirty. Almost all the fleet trucks I have worked on are full of mud and water on both door sills. I went back to the next suspect place skipping the splice for now. Door post umbilicals are a known problem area especially on high mileage vehicles. The wires break from opening and closing the door a million times. Always the driver’s door on trucks and police cars. I pulled the driver’s door apart again and actually removed the door to get good access to the umbilical. No problem found, all wires look perfect. The only place left is the splice. Put the door back on and together, this was yesterday.

Today I went after the splice. I removed the battery junction box and disconnected 10 or so connectors to access the harness easier. I identified the circuit by the connector listed and started down the harness. I got to the splice and it looked good at first. A gentle tug it came apart. There was a hole burnt through the shrink tube where the splice failed. Since the regulator had failed in the door, the electric shock load popped the weak splice before blowing the fuse.

You can see the blow through on the shrink tube. Reassembled and test, works as designed!