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Mystery oil light prob - car needs to be scrapped?
MODEL: Ford Escape ZB XLT 3.0L V6 with 3.0L V6 Duratec (DOHC 24-valve, AJ engine) Australia.
What's at stake: May have to junk the car? Been told that if its worn main or rod bearings, may need new engine. Someone also claimed its easier to replace the whole engine than the oil pump
Questions: pls have a go at any! 1. How long might a mechanic take to diagnose this? (i.e cost)
a. Is a Ford specialist best? (Especially given the PCV valve seems quite hard to get to on this car (see below).2. Which of the suspects below does it sound like? 3. Anything I can diagnose mysel
4. What should I tell a mechanic to get the best service at least cost?
Problem In last few days oil light started coming on when idling (e.g at lights), even though oil is full. Though not when driving. It also seemed to stop doing this when we added about half a litre - at least on last trip.
Known suspect: PCV hose (AI-assisted text): If the PCV valve or hose is damaged or loose, it can cause crankcase pressure to build or vent improperly, interfering with oil circulation and pressure—especially at idle. This may also tie into existing oil leaks from the timing case cover or crank seal by pressurizing the crankcase.
I have other suspects I can list (got from AI), but don't want to post too long
[More below]
Known issues/chronology:
1. Just before the RW inspection a few weeks ago, friend massively overfilled oil 2. 'Roadworthy' (legal) inspection mechanic found:
a. Oil leak: "Possible timing case and/or sump gaskets - repair and clean" b. PCV hose off front rocker cover. He put it back on but said collapsed front engine mount would make come off again
3. We drained the oil, changed the oil filter and replaced with 10W 40.
a. To avoid overfilling, we only filled it two-thirds (we know this because of the oil container). It supposedly takes 5.2 Lb. But curiously, it barely touched the markers on the dipstick.
5. Took back to RW mechanic:
He said oil was very low
Secured PCV hose again
"Fresh oil drops evident off sump"
Second test: no oil
6. A couple of weeks later the second mechanic was doing the same oil leak test when the oil light came on while he was driving it, despite full.
Non-issues
1. Second mechanic said engine sounded good. We've heard no engine noise or knocking.
2. No overheating
welcome to FTE.
first thing i would do is put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the see what oil pressure is.
it very well may just be a faulty sending unit. how many Km on the engine? it could be a weak oil pump, but that usually only happens on high Km engines.
no not at all. simply find an oil pressure port and screw fitting in then run the hose into the cabin and connect the gauge.
if you have 10 psi pressure at idle all is good.
engine mount would be the toughest of the problems to repair because you will have to lift the engine to get the old one out and new mount in.
then a new PCV valve and hose should fix the oil leak from the hose popping off.
here in the states the 3.0 is a pretty good engine, and 186,400 Km on odometer is usually not enough to warrant needing a new engine unless it was severely abused.
Thanks Tom,
Your kindness is appreciated given what we've been thru recently trying to get a mechanic who is both honest and knowledgeable.
The rego is about to be suspended, so soon we won't be able to legally drive it - because of the difficulties.
I'd be interested if you think the car is worth keeping given the full situation:
Bought from 'friend of the family' for $1900 (USD 1200).
Second hand = gotta get a 'roadworthy certificate' from a mechanic.
Unfortunately we got a stickler and he found all the problems below.
Rough quote for him to fix was $2575 (1630 US).
Another guy quoted $2024
(this was $374 more than his original quote, which was deceptive, because it didnt include our universal sales tax GST (illegal) and did stuff like quoting for ONE item instead of two (e.g tyres!)) Then that same guy claimed that the problem above required a new motor at an extra $2000, without doing any tests.
(He just drove it for 5 mins)
When he essentially refused to quote properly on doing further tests, we parted ways.
The current on-road costs so far of
$2250 already spent (purchase + RW inspection + minor repair) + $2575 for RW repairs (if the more trustworthy RW guy did it) = $4825 (3050 USD)
-> would already be $1200 over what you might pay for a car with a roadworthy already:
A car sales website says its goes for $3600 (2300 USD).
Though a dealer wants $6500 for the same car (4100 USD). https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/648709077565271?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A72cc17fc-a0c4-47a5-a1a0-3dce18b2a7c5See pic)
However this does not take into the 'better the devil you know' factor (a different purchase may still have non-RWC problems)
plus the fact that buying a different car wouldn't just be $3600, we'd be paying for a loss of $1750 plus the new car: $5350 (3400 USD)
I'd be interested to know your thoughts on fixing or junking.
1. Replace front shock absorbers (soft)
2. Replace front link pins (worn)
3. Replace front engine mount (collapsed)
4. Replace rear brake hoses (cracked)
5. Replace rear wheel cylinders (leaking brake fluid)
6. Refit brake pedal pad (incorrectly fitted)
7. Power steering fluid low – possible leak: if so, fix
8. Repair rust on lower radiator support panel (needs to be structurally sound)
9. Replace rear tyres (cracked between tread)
10. Replace centre rear seat belt (frayed)
MINOR:
11. Secure left hand front inner guard liner (loose)
12. Front left bar cover: rectify (so no sharp edges protruding and loose)
13. Headlamps aimed too high – rectify
14. Wiper washers not hitting windscreen – aim
If your car’s oil light comes on when idling, it’s a sign that the oil pressure is too low. Oil pressure can become low for many reasons such as low level of oil, worn-out oil, worn-out engine, faulty oil pressure gauge, clogged air filter, worn-out oil pump, and using oil of the wrong viscosity. https://autosolutionlab.com/oil-ligh...n-when-idling/.
A) Replace sending unit (aka oil pressure sending unit) FIRST. This should have been done already. It's cheap and easy.to do. B) run Sea Foam or some other cleaner oil additive through the engine to clean out the sludge. I have seen people adding diesel fuel to oil and idle it for 10 minutes. Do it SEVERAL TIMES each time changing oil. C) I don't think ICV would cause it unless your idle RPMs fluctuate wildly. D) drop oil pan, clean it out and clean the pick up tube strainer.E) If you had worn out bearings you would hear it before oil light coming on. I would NOT be getting a new engine before doing all of the above first. AND checking your oil pressure with a gauge.
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Mystery oil light prob - car needs to be scrapped?
