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I am completely baffled. Replacing EGR was not great but not difficult. I lost a bit of coolant, so I topped off the retention bottle. Cleared p400 code, took truck for a spin. Coolant warmed up normally, but I was getting no hot air from the vents. I checked if I connected everything correctly (I did).
Any clue what might have happened? It's not the blend doors, because I did not touch the settings, and those were left for heat.
RESOLVED!!!!
I replaced coolant bypass adapter, bled the system. Added a bleed hose/screw to the system (new adapter had an outlet for it). Started getting some heat above 2000 rpms. squeezed the radiator hose and got some bubbles out. filled the system through the bleeder hose. Still no heat at idle/below the 2000 rpms. Finally went to BJs (the store - get your mind outta gutter), about 11 miles from home. In the parking lot turn on the heat, and got it at idle! back at home checked the retention bottle and the coolant was right where it should be. So while bleeding the cooling system, don't kill yourself. Just take your Escape for a trip - it will fix itself.
Thanks - I'll try that. Also, does Escape have a heater valve and
heater valve solenoid?" I see references to it, and I had to loosen up what appeared to be such a valve located right next to the EGR valve.
OK, not much happening. The upper radiator hose gets warm VERY slowly, the heater hoses are pretty cold. All this started to happen after I replaced the EGR valve, which is surrounded by the heater hoses...
Is it possible I somehow damaged it? I hade to dislodge it to get to the EGR valve bolts. I did not remove it, but I did back it out of away from the engine, and then I simply bolted it back, Engine is NOT overheating, but the heater hoses to not seem to have any flow in them.
I’m sure it has the heater valve as opposed to a solenoid.
Here’s a better video outlining the air purge process. On my 2006, 4 cylinder escape hybrid, I did this approach to rev and hold the rpm at 3500 for 30 seconds once to purge the air after a coolant flush and my heat was restored.
With respect to the inquiry of the valve location, I would simply follow the heater core lines from the firewall to the engine and it should be readily identifiable. ( I loaned my escape to a friend for a few days while his car is in the shop or I would go look and attach a picture for guidance).
I’m sure it has the heater valve as opposed to a solenoid.
Here’s a better video outlining the air purge process. On my 2006, 4 cylinder escape hybrid, I did this approach to rev and hold the rpm at 3500 for 30 seconds once to purge the air after a coolant flush and my heat was restored.
With respect to the inquiry of the valve location, I would simply follow the heater core lines from the firewall to the engine and it should be readily identifiable. ( I loaned my escape to a friend for a few days while his car is in the shop or I would go look and attach a picture for guidance).
Do you have the 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder engine?
4 cyl 2.3 l. exactly the same engine as my 2007 Mazda 3.
I seem to be leaking from that heater bypass valve...
RESOLVED!!!!
I replaced coolant bypass adapter, bled the system. Added a bleed hose/screw to the system (new adapter had an outlet for it. Started getting some heat above 2000 rpms. squeezed the radiator hose and got some bubbles out. filled the system through the bleeder hose. Still no heat at idle/below the 2000 rpms. Finally went to BJs (the store - get your mind outta gutter), about 11 miles from home. In the parking lot turn on the heat, and got it at idle! back at home checked the retention bottle and the coolant was right where it should be. So while bleeding the cooling system, don't kill yourself. Just take your Escape for a trip - it will fix itself.
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