i have a 2014 with 225k on the clock, i have only owned it for a couple of months, fully deleted, ran great for the first few weeks and then started with a dead miss on #4

i changed the injector and changed the iqa number, still had the miss, and just kept smoking worse

pulled the passenger side valve cover and the rocker arms are completely shot, i was able to pull 4 of the pushrods out by hand with taking anything loose.

im in the process of pulling the head to see if there is any damage to the cylinders, i can see that one of the lifters is turned 90 so im afraid the cam will be toast

my question is if the lower end seems ok should i just replaced with fresh heads and new valve train or go with a newer used engine ? if i go with a newer engine to get the newer style turbo what year would be the best to go with ?

thanks for any help

 

on one hand

My previous truck which was a 6.4 had issues which were basically just rocker arms and push rods. After changing them the truck ran fine.


it costs me 800 bucks in new parts to change all the rocker arms and push rods.


my advice would be to go that route before assuming you need lifters, cams, etc.

You can also bore scope the cylinders to check for damage.

On the other hand, I read some where that the 6.7 was a 300k mile engine before needing rebuild…some have made it beyond 500k miles just fine.

 

i have 2 different borescopes and neither will fit in through the injector or glow plug hole, is there another way to see into the cylinder ?

if the bottom end is good that is sort of what im planning, new heads and new valve train, i know at least one of the holders for the lifters is bad and probably one lifter but that is all work i can do myself

 

do you mean rocker arms or lifters….

 

i know for a fact that the rocker arms are worn completely out but one of the lifters is turned 90, i have looked down inside and you can see that the lash adjusters are turned

thats why im concerned about the camshaft being damaged

 

That’s probally becuase there is no preload on it…no push rod/rocker arm force to keep it tracked.

 

thats what im hoping for im in the process of pulling the heads so i can check everything, almost have the passenger head off not looking forward to doing the drivers side but oh well lol

 

With the amount of miles on it I would do a wet compression test to check the rings. You don't want to have a nicely sealed top and a leaky bottom. I did that to an engine many many years ago and it did not end well.

 

 

Can't help but wonder if the owner of this truck ran a motor oil that met Fords specification WSS-M2C171-F1. This oil specification is to protect the upper valvetrain.

 

crazy its shot at 200k miles. also crazy you can DIY this. am jealous.

 

i was curious about that as well i checked carfax and it showed that the oil had been changed regularly but it doesnt say what oil and filter was used


speakerfritz that video is what got me to pull the valve cover, after i watched it i figured i had the same issue

 

ive been turning wrenches on things since i was a kid, im in my 50s now and have worked on everything from small engines to robots and aircraft