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Has anybody tried rebuilding the air/smog pump? Mine is starting to squeal and the part is hard to find. I see some on eBay for around $200, including a core charge. Seems it can be rebuilt.
I'm not concerned that it actually pumps any air. I just don't want it to seize up and break my belt.
I also can't find a belt/pulley bracket to replace the pump.
If the vehicle is for off-road use, the pump can easily be bypassed with a shorter belt and abandoned in place. According to my notes, an 80.5" will work on a w/o AC application using otherwise stock routing. If this is for on-highway use yeah, $200 is a great deal compared to having one of those pumps let go. In my experience, when they start to go, they go fast. Never rebuilt one, where I live I don't really have to worry about them.
Where you gonna get a kit to rebuild your air pump?
Options are replace or delete
There is one more
We used to feed them rust penetrant thru the intake (not too much or your cat will not like it)
That makes them last a few more years
on my '96 with AC, my understanding is that a bolt is in the way, preventing a short belt bypass.
I also saw that Rock Auto was out of stock :-(
I have no idea what would be involved in a rebuild. I assume cleaning and lubricating, replacing any bearings if possible. obviously these eBay sellers are able to refurbish them somehow.
I pulled the intake hose off the filter on the fender and pulled the output hose that attaches to the Smog valve sending air to the air rail. then I ran it for a bit, allowing it to purge for a bit then squirted PB Blaster in the inlet and allowed it to purge that out, then did the same with WD40. I was hoping this might clear out any debris lubricate some parts. it definitely seems to be quieter for now.
on my '96 with AC, my understanding is that a bolt is in the way, preventing a short belt bypass.
I also saw that Rock Auto was out of stock :-(
I have no idea what would be involved in a rebuild. I assume cleaning and lubricating, replacing any bearings if possible. obviously these eBay sellers are able to refurbish them somehow.
I pulled the intake hose off the filter on the fender and pulled the output hose that attaches to the Smog valve sending air to the air rail. then I ran it for a bit, allowing it to purge for a bit then squirted PB Blaster in the inlet and allowed it to purge that out, then did the same with WD40. I was hoping this might clear out any debris lubricate some parts. it definitely seems to be quieter for now.
I tried that once, for the same reasons as you. 3 days later when the pump seized, upon removing it I saw the words "USE NO OIL" written in bold letters right on the pump. Evidently they really don't like to be oiled.
When bypassing the A.I.R. pump, there is a bolt in the way if you have AC and use the factory routing. Regardless of whether you have AC or not, use the "without AC" routing and the belt will clear the bolt in question by several inches.
They have had that use no oil warning forever, A bunch of oil in the catalytic converter is no good
Use the penetrant sparingly and look for a replacement
Back in the day when those trucks were new, half the population thought cutting the small air pump belt was a good idea
Three days later, like you said, the pumps would be frozen up (from not spinning and just humidity)
We could free them up, and then shortly after that the small air pump belts went away, and it was part of the serp belt system
007
They have had that use no oil warning forever, A bunch of oil in the catalytic converter is no good
Use the penetrant sparingly and look for a replacement
Back in the day when those trucks were new, half the population thought cutting the small air pump belt was a good idea
Three days later, like you said, the pumps would be frozen up (from not spinning and just humidity)
We could free them up, and then shortly after that the small air pump belts went away, and it was part of the serp belt system
007
Always wondered why that warning was there, seems like a "duh" moment now. Thanks for shedding light on that.
i disconectd the air hoses from the engine before pushing the spray oil through. i'm not too worried about these 27 year old cats anyway. i'll probably order one of the rebuilt pumps as that's probably the simplest solution. I have already replaced a busted air rail a year or so back. But, I could not get that 6th inlet pipe/fitting to grab threads. I put a little thread locker on there and threaded as far as it would go without breaking free. it works pretty good,, but i can still hear the annoying leak on cold startups. anyone have a trick for getting the fitting well into the threads?
anyone have a trick for getting the fitting well into the threads?
Use a bottoming tap. 9/16"-18 UNF if I remember correctly. It's a common size on trucks & machinery, most NAPA stores have one in stock. The few of those manifolds I've done, there wasn't much left of the original threads. Cover the threads with grease or anti-seize so they'll go in smoothly and you can feel when they bottom out. Seize compound is not needed, the nuts are never gonna fall out on their own, and it doesn't work on high temperatures anyway.
As far as I know, all there is to rebuilding smog pumps is disassembly, cleaning and new bearings. The inner rotating portion of the pump is in fairly close tolerance to the inside walls of the outer case. Dirt build-up will make it sound off as well as worn bearings.
I purchased and installed a rebuilt smog pump off ebay (good feedback). the removal and installation required a little more cussing than anticipated, but I got it done. Then I read the instructions that came with the pump, stating it will need 500 miles to break-in. in which time it may squeal. haha, now I don't know if I actually fixed the problem. It sounds a lot like it did before. Oh well, I guess i'll find out in time.
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