1999 7.3 won’t start
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1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
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1999 7.3 won’t start
I have a 99 7.3 that I’ve dumped way too much money into. I just rebuilt the transmission and everything was going great until it wasn’t. I started it to move it across the street and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I can hear the fuel pump and all the lights work but when I turn it over it just makes one click. I replaced the starter and it’s still doing the same thing. Any ideas?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Are we talking about a manual or auto transmission? I'm going w/ auto cause it's what I'm familiar w/. Have you tried holding up on the shift lever while turning the key or shifting to neutral and giving her a go? Pretty common issues for the auto trucks are loose bolts at the end of the shift tube preventing the shifter from pulling the cable far enough for the range sensor to register "P". A simple get you out of a bind "hack" is to just jump the relay on the passenger inner fender. If the batteries and cables are good it will crank, and if the key is on and it's capable of running it will start. Here's the down side, if the truck happens to be in gear when you do this it will start and it will drive off on it's own. So be very certain that you are in P or N or better yet someone is in the cab w/ foot on the brake.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 396
Likes: 171
Assuming batteries are good
check the start solenoid for power, have a helper put the ignition in crank position, check the other two wires for power.
At the starter, chock the wheels, check for power at the large wire, have helper crank, check for power on both wires. The important thing here is the circuit needs to be trying to energize the starter when testing. Also test on the stud not the wire connector, if you don't have power at the stud check on the wire connector.
your test light should be bright during this, if it is dim you have a problem, if this checks out test the ground at the starter case.
check the start solenoid for power, have a helper put the ignition in crank position, check the other two wires for power.
At the starter, chock the wheels, check for power at the large wire, have helper crank, check for power on both wires. The important thing here is the circuit needs to be trying to energize the starter when testing. Also test on the stud not the wire connector, if you don't have power at the stud check on the wire connector.
your test light should be bright during this, if it is dim you have a problem, if this checks out test the ground at the starter case.
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