Originally Posted by acdii

Wind chill has zero effect on the fuel tank other than speeding up the cooling to ambient. What were the actual temps? As mentioned above, waiting for everything to warm back up or getting it in a heated garage and changing out the filters may be the best thing you can do at the moment. I would NOT drive it though and try not to let it run for long as the low pressures could cause damage to the pump if not enough fuel is delivered to it. Unless there is a DPK installed, I would be very hesitant to let it run at all.

Originally Posted by farmert

It would be my guess that your fuel filters were beginning to plug due to the fuel waxing/gelling. My 15 does not like temps below -10F with number 2 fuel with a lot of antigel formula in it. I'd change out the fuel filters, add some straight #1 fuel, and see if it cures your problem.

Originally Posted by Kristysangels

I also use #2 fuel. Am I able to add #1 if it is already full with #2? Thank you for the response.

Originally Posted by Kristysangels

I have a 2010 F250 6.7 Super Duty. We recently had sub-zero temperatures (-40 windchills) for about 4 days. While driving one day I had warnings pop up and my engine light go on. Low Fuel Pressure and Reduced Engine Power are the warnings that are on. I noticed in the couple days leading up to the warnings, the Cleaning Exhause sensor seemed more frequent. Not sure if it's related. I'm very diligent about making sure my DEF fluid doesn't get low, double checked after the warnings and it's all good. I have/had a full tank of fuel at the time and I very rarely let it go under 3/4 to 1/2 tank. I keep Cummins Diesel Fuel Supplement anti-gel in my tank. I took it in last week to the dealership (under warranty) for diagnostic....and it's STILL sitting there untouched a week later.  Beyond frustrating. They haven't even run the diagnostic yet. ​​​​​​​Would this possibly be something more than a gelled fuel/filter issue? Is it safe to continue driving it if I fo pick it up from the dealership and telling them to call me when they're ready to look at it? I don't want to make anything worse and take great care of my vehicle so I wouldn't chance it if it'll ruin something more. Just looking to see if anyone would have any knowledge on this? Thanks! 

Originally Posted by bernie165

**I copied my post from another thread but the main theme applies - it sounds like you take good care and are aware; and that the fuel you had wasn't treated to the temperatures. Replacing fuel filters would be the first step and adding dedicated winter additive or some kero, or at least get a fuel sample while changing the filters to verify quality and make sure it is not still cloudy. From there, you just unfortunately need to make sure you know what you have - you can't 100% trust the stations, especially if you go to an area where temps are markedly different from the area you fueled up in. Part of the issue is kero is expensive, especially this year, so some may be hesitant to use it and think they can treat exclusively with additives. I agree with the others - I would not drive it until fuel filters are swapped. Always carry a spare set too for roadside swaps. Those codes and reduced power should clear themselves once fuel pressure is restored. FWIW and future reference, the issue you described does not have anything to do with DEF. Good that you checked but that can be eliminated from the equation. DEF freezes at 12°F so if it is that cold or colder, don't add to the tank either. >>Copied my response from the 2017+ forum, "first diesel truck" thread:#2 is good to 40°F. Below that, you need to be proactive and at least aware of what is in your tank. Combo additives such as Stanadyne Performance Formula (blue label) have some cold weather additives and will get you down to around 20°F with #2, dedicated winter additive maybe down to 10°F on #2. Below 10°F, blenders have to start cutting with kero or you won't even get it out of the delivery truck. #1 is straight Kero and hardly needed. 70/30, and def 50/50 blend, good close to -30°F - general guidelines. Even 90/10 with the addition of a winter additive to drop the base fuel is good to -10 all day long. Even in NY where we have temp swings - drivers with years of diesel driving experience assume what they got at the pump was all set; and they get caught because fuel is treated at the blender to the locale you are in and what that weather is going to be over the next week to two. You fill up at the gas station where it is around 20-30° ambient, then they go North to Tughill and the next morning it is -10° and the truck won't start.Bottom line - know what is in your tank, what the fuels are good down to, and make sure you are treated to where you will be. In Montana, couple weeks ago it was -40°F.....Ambient, not wind chill. Anything without a kero blend wasn't starting. Anyone who drove in on fuel not treated to the area wasn't starting. It can get cold anywhere at anytime. If you haven't had trouble in Maine, that's good and you must not have traveled outside of what your fuel was treated to, but sometimes people travel from one temperature zone to another and that needs to be considered. *Added - def run 10W-30 or 5W-40 - I would run it year round. Resist the urge to run 15W-40 if it comes up as an option.Plugging in is nice but if you are running one of the above oils with a quality filter (MC or equiv), you don't need to plug in until you hit 0° and plugging in does nothing for the fuel as it has no warming effect on the fuel tank or fuel conditioner module. The only place where fuel will be OK is the engine area, which is why the truck starts then dies shortly after, when you have fuel issues on a truck that was plugged in.

Originally Posted by speakerfritz

a 2010 would be a 6.4 motor . 6.7's started in 2011. but the comments about gelling apply in both cases.

Originally Posted by Kristysangels

Rhank you! Very informative!!