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'93 Ford F-150 - Get No Response Turning the Key

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Old Jun 18, 2022 | 03:52 PM
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'93 Ford F-150 - Get No Response Turning the Key

My 1993 Ford F-150 4X4 (has AT, AC, PL, PW, Tilt Steering Wheel) recently and suddenly would not get any response at all when turning the key to try and start the engine. The dash lights and accessories come on, but when turning the key, to try and start the engine, I get no response. Thinking it was the starter, I replaced that, but evidently that wasn't the issue. Since then I've replaced the ignition switch, the key tumbler and finally the upper ignition rack, and I'm still getting nothing when I try to turn the key to start the truck. Any ideas?



 
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Old Jun 18, 2022 | 06:12 PM
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Welcome to FTE Jimbob,

I moved this to the proper forum. The first thing that comes to my mind is the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2022 | 06:23 PM
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You've got a trigger wire on the fender mount solenoid. It's small gauge and terminates in a right angle rubber-esque boot that just pushes on the upper post of the solenoid.

You need to pull this off and check for voltage when the key is in the START position. You may need a helper or rig up a test light where you can see it from the driver's seat, or prop a DMM where you can see it thru the windshield, etc.....

If you do a test light make sure the shank isn't resting on something grounded or you'll pop a fuse and punk your diagnostic attempts.

ANYWAY....if you're NOT getting voltage here in START, the problem is from the LIS (lower ignition switch mounted on column behind knee bolster) to that connection. If you ARE getting power the problem is in your fender solenoid, batt cables, or starter. I understand you said the starter is new but that doesn't mean much.

Note you can always put the key in RUN and use a screwdriver or similar to jump across the two BIG terminals to start the truck. Worst case scenario if this doesn't work is your engine MIGHT be seized so an easy check there is make sure you can turn it at the crank bolt with a ratchet/breaker bar etc

Anyway too many variables right now, post back if you get power at the signal wire and we'll go from there.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2022 | 11:55 AM
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Thanks for your advice. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid on the fender (looking for a possible quick fix), but I'm still not getting any "cranking" at all from the starter. Although, I am able to start the engine at the two solenoid terminal points. I've tried starting the engine directly from the ignition switch, and that doesn't work either. Any other possibilities I could try?

It's very frustrating...thanks again for your help!

Jim
 
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Old Jun 20, 2022 | 05:55 PM
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New ignition switch would be my guess. After 29 years of cranking it’s probably time.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2022 | 06:43 PM
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I had already replaced that (ignition switch), and didn't show any change...unless the new switch was a bad one. Thanks again!

Jim
 
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Old Jun 20, 2022 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimbob340
I had already replaced that (ignition switch), and didn't show any change...unless the new switch was a bad one. Thanks again!

Jim
That's what you're gonna have to test. I'd make sure there's power going into it and make sure power heads out when pushed all the way forward to START.

I'm sorry to say this but you're gonna have to set down the parts cannon and stop looking for and asking for quick fixes. It's time to break out a test light and figure out why you're not getting a signal at the trigger wire at the fender solenoid. I'm only assuming you're not getting a signal, it sounds like rather than put a test light in there you just replaced the fender solenoid and then gave up.

Again, I'm sorry to sound rude but some rudimentary diagnostics are in order.

Actually it could be your NSS but I wouldn't recommend running out and blindly replacing the NSS....this is just a WAG
 
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Old Jun 20, 2022 | 07:28 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ont-start.html

I have been having the same issue. Take a look at my thread, hopefully it helps. What has temporarily solved it for me was running an extra ground from the negative post to one of the alternator mounting bolts. So far so good, but the true test will be tomorrow morning. I'll let you know.
 
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