New clutch, disengagement issue
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 27
Likes: 4
From: Lovingston, VA
New clutch, disengagement issue
1994 f150 with m5r2. Just replaced clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, pilot bearing, master and slave (with release bearing). Clutch, pressure plate, and hydraulics are Luk brand. With the rear wheels off the ground, the trans is harder than it should be to get into gear and when putting it in first the rear wheels try to spin a little bit which clearly tells me the clutch is dragging.
I jacked the front of the truck higher than the rear and tried gravity bleeding, depressing the clutch and cracking the bleeder then releasing, pumping the clutch then cracking the bleeder, pumping the clutch and letting it pop back up, and various other techniques and I've never even gotten any air out of the bleeder and the problem remains. Weird thing is the pedal feels nice and solid as it should. The pedal bushings and linkage all look good and look solid while the clutch is being depressed. The slave cylinder seems to be moving the correct amount when observing through the bellhousing but I don't know exactly how much it should move just by looking at it. Thoughts?
I jacked the front of the truck higher than the rear and tried gravity bleeding, depressing the clutch and cracking the bleeder then releasing, pumping the clutch then cracking the bleeder, pumping the clutch and letting it pop back up, and various other techniques and I've never even gotten any air out of the bleeder and the problem remains. Weird thing is the pedal feels nice and solid as it should. The pedal bushings and linkage all look good and look solid while the clutch is being depressed. The slave cylinder seems to be moving the correct amount when observing through the bellhousing but I don't know exactly how much it should move just by looking at it. Thoughts?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,541
Likes: 2,032
From: North Texas
Have you ever done pedal box bushings? They do wear. Is the pivot lever in good shape with the small bushing in place?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 27
Likes: 4
From: Lovingston, VA
I haven’t replaced them no, but they look to be nice and tight with no play when the clutch is depressed. And, I didn’t have this issue before I replaced the clutch so it’s definitely not the bushings.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 83
I once had this issue. After 3 sets of master and slave cylinders and taking the trans out and back in twice, I figured out the issue was I failed to clean and lube the splines on the trans input shaft. They were dry and rusty which caused the clutch disc to not slide freely enough forward and back on the splined shaft, causing it to drag against the pressure plate.
I wire brushed (in a drill) the splines good and shiney, applied a thin coat of high-temp grease, reassembled everything and the problem was gone.
So make sure the input shaft is clean and lubed
I wire brushed (in a drill) the splines good and shiney, applied a thin coat of high-temp grease, reassembled everything and the problem was gone.
So make sure the input shaft is clean and lubed
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 27
Likes: 4
From: Lovingston, VA
I once had this issue. After 3 sets of master and slave cylinders and taking the trans out and back in twice, I figured out the issue was I failed to clean and lube the splines on the trans input shaft. They were dry and rusty which caused the clutch disc to not slide freely enough forward and back on the splined shaft, causing it to drag against the pressure plate.
I wire brushed (in a drill) the splines good and shiney, applied a thin coat of high-temp grease, reassembled everything and the problem was gone.
So make sure the input shaft is clean and lubed
I wire brushed (in a drill) the splines good and shiney, applied a thin coat of high-temp grease, reassembled everything and the problem was gone.
So make sure the input shaft is clean and lubed
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,919
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
Good to hear you have it fixed.
On the 80's trucks, dont know if it happens on yours, 1 of the issues is the firewall cracks so when you push in the clutch pedal the master moves so you dont get a full stroke. With a helper have them push in the clutch and you watch the firewall for movement.
There are two different, small & large, firewall braces to fix or stop this from happening. Think all you can get now are the lager one, JBGY has them.
The other is if not pre-filled and no matter how much you bleed it still will not work.
They say tapping on the slave & line with a hammer will work the bubbles up to the master and start working sometimes.
The other is to just drive it and hit bumps as the vibration will work the bubbles to the top.
Dave ----
On the 80's trucks, dont know if it happens on yours, 1 of the issues is the firewall cracks so when you push in the clutch pedal the master moves so you dont get a full stroke. With a helper have them push in the clutch and you watch the firewall for movement.
There are two different, small & large, firewall braces to fix or stop this from happening. Think all you can get now are the lager one, JBGY has them.
The other is if not pre-filled and no matter how much you bleed it still will not work.
They say tapping on the slave & line with a hammer will work the bubbles up to the master and start working sometimes.
The other is to just drive it and hit bumps as the vibration will work the bubbles to the top.
Dave ----
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